Wanting to get to the bare metal on the tank, what do i use?

Tal-strip(plastic jug) is good but any aircraft stripper will get the job done well, especially if paint is original. Would prolly avoid the aerosol stuff tho....

Craig
 
Auto parts stores usually have it. That stuff works awesome. It's called Mar-Hyde Tal-Strip II. I like the gel kind that you can buy by in the plastic jug. Don't get it on your skin or breath the fumes though. Use throw away gloves and cheap paint brushes and make damn sure you get it all off before you try to repaint.
 
Any particular reason ongoing to bare metal?? Paint can act as a great primer if prepped correctly.

Also make sure you use self etching primer on the bare metal.
 
When dealing with 35-40 year old motorcycles paint can hide a lot of history....also known as dents. If I repaint I always go to bare metal. All the warts are exposed. Fix everything, etch prime, prime, base coat, clear coat and life is good!
 
First thinner won't do it, so it needs to be a stripper as was suggested. Secondly, there will be some that doesn't come off, so sand it with 80-120 grit by hand or 80grit on a sander. use a good primer over bare metal. I would stay away from lacquer primer.
 
I tried Aircraft Stripper on a factory (xs650) painted tank and was surprised how poorly it did. Yes, I shook it up good and followed directions. My DA sander sure did the trick though. Next time I'll try tal-strip.
 
Kent, I've tired a few kinds of "aircraft stripper" and the Mar-Hyde Tal-Strip II works the best by far. :thumbsup:
 
Just did an XS400 w/ factory paint. One slop of the tal-strip got the worst of it...just had to dab a few spots that dried before I got it all off.....Ok, Ill let this dead horse lie beaten. We have well established that Tal-strip is best!
 
Wouldn't a quick wetsand show you any imperfections that may need attention? Your tank so I'm not trying to knock the way you do it just seems like a whole lot of work that may be not needed.
 
i used a wire brush on a angle grinder.... but I'm not a professional painter. I've used aircraft remover in the past on rims and it works pretty good but it seems like more of a hassle then a wire brush
 
Just remember that the best paint in the world won't overcome poor surface prep. Old coats of paint leave room for unknown solvent reactions. Bare metal is a known commodity. And it's only the size of a motorcycle gas tank. It's not like it's a whole car...
 
Ghetto, if you know what substrate you are painting over its one thing, but with 30+ yr old bikes its often a toss up. I paint Peterbilts for a living so stripping down a motorcycle tank is about as inconvenient as a fiery sneeze for me, but really, there aint much to it. For a rattle can job, one might want the extra protection of the existing paint. But if yer gonna do it right then why not start with a clean slate? Painting over an old finish isnt "poor surface prep" but its not the best way to go about it either......Especially when an hour's time and a couple pair of disposable gloves will get you there......

Craig
 
If you don't strip to metal the seam around the cap will still have gasoline residue in it and bubbles in your new paint won't be far behind.
 
Back
Top