Weak Midrange RPMs. Loss of "Pull".....goes flat...

You hold them in your hand (wear a glove) while you clean them with the angle grinder.
 
You hold them in your hand (wear a glove) while you clean them with the angle grinder.


I can swing that if my current plan doesnt work. I picked up a 6in version of this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-buffer-94393.html#pr-header-94393

and a wire wheel that should fit the arbor. I'll buff my side covers with it eventually. Its not a bench grinder, but for my uses I think it will serve 2 puposes well, some light grinding, cleaing, and polishing.

If I cant get the wheel to fit, Ill do the hand grinder.



Thanks everyone
 
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Ok, got some good stuff done tonight. Its 2:15 am , .. I better have. I'll post pics later today.

Hit a bump. Starter cover wont come off. Ideas??? Heat???

Also, when Soda blasting my parts, do I have to avoid the gasket surfaces? I dont plant to spray the inside of the rocker box, but can I spray the outside with the rocker arms still inside? Run it through the dishwasher when done?

I will protect the cylinders and valve guides and wont spray the rocker arms.

Can I spray everything else?


Thanks Everyone.
 
I don't blast any internal surfaces or gasket surfaces with anything. I assemble the top cover to the head with lengths of all-thread and block all openings .....

BlockPlates2.jpg


BlockPlates3.jpg


I don't think I'd put the top cover or anything for that matter in the dishwasher. The top cover has oil passageways into the rocker arms. I'd just scrub with hot, soapy water and rinse.
 
You can use baking soda to blast the combustion chambers and ports clean, pistons too. Or you can use paint stripper to remove the carbon. Or a combination, paint strip most of the carbon off, soda blast what remains. Soda blasting is excellent for cleaning the piston ring grooves. The valves are hardened steel so you can just wire wheel them clean once you have them out.

Cut strips of rags, oil them, and thread them through the guides before you start your cleaning.


How about the "bowl" where I poured the gas for the valve leak check. Can I blast this area? Avoiding the gasket surface as much as humanly possible.
The rest of the stuff i can manage. I think. :shrug:
 
Well, yes, you could blast the combustion chamber, ports too. Make sure you've got those guides stuffed with rags.
 
Here is what I did last night. Went to my buddies and welded my spring compressor tool. Went surprisingly well..Im an ok welder...go figure.... I put a small round head bolt on the opposite end to seat on the valve face, but alas, there wasnt enough room to fit. Had to cut the bolt off. NO worries though. Worked just fine. In the pic I posted how long I cut my conduit part....I eyeballed that whole thing. Never put a mark on it. Just cut it out. If I had to do it again, Id make it just a bit shorter, Like 1.5 inchs would be perfect. But, mine worked with NO issues. Gotta hold it in place a bit when compressing the springs but no big deal. I have $10 invested in the tool.

Built an organizing block for the valve parts. Got the valves out. NO PLAY at all in the guides. Valves fit well. Whew.......

Set up my buffer/wire wheel combo and cleaned up the valves.

Got some pics of my hone job too.

Tried to remove the starter, I will finish that today.
 

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More pics....
 

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More Pics.....
 

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Ok, well,...lots of prep work for blasting. Built a setup with a base that protects the jugs from blast, cloud of baking soda gets everywhere but not hitting the cyls at all from the gun..

I also noticed some ,...apparent...vavle marks. Looks funny where they were rubbing. Not sure what effect it will have. I HAVE NOT lapped the valves yet. It may be fine when Im done. Valves need lapping pretty bad.

I built a little arm for holding my cam chain and can roll my engine around my garage, you know, cause its fun.


I spent about 5 mins blasting the top last night to get an idea of how well the soda works and how much time and soda I will need. See pics.

I think the soda will do fine, luckily the PO did a shitty job painting it and its really thin and comes off pretty easily. Wont look brand new but will look closer to it.

All the prep takes the most time.



1 issue....


A stud on the front right tappit cover came out. Threads on the stud are pretty smooth but it went back in well enought for blasting. Gonna order a new one, Should I JB weld it back in? Im going to finnish the blasting and Ill fix the stud when I take things appart to clean up and lap the valves. I'll clean up the pistons while the stud sets. Maybe.

What do you think.?
 

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You still have a few more holes to block off before blasting. Put the 4 smaller bolts back into the top cover along with the little 6mm one at the rear. Stick a couple short 6mm bolts w/nuts in the 2 front cam chain guide holes. For the oil feed holes on top, I slide a short length of suitably sized rubber hose on the banjo bolts and screw them back in the holes tight enough to make a seal.

BlockPlates4.jpg


BlockPlates6.jpg


For the bottoms of the jugs, I use ready-to-spread frosting containers. These fit perfectly and are so snug, you need to heat them a bit with a heat gun to get them on and off.
 
10-4 on finishing off the holes on the top. Thats the plan, just anxious to see how well the blaster was going to work.

I have protectors for the cylinders for blasting.


JB weld on the new stud ok, or should I try to save the threads?
 

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You got your valves somewhat clean but not completely. I told you, that carbon is really hard and baked on there. Time for the knotted wire wheel in the 4 1/2" angle grinder. You'll want to clean the backsides of the valves as well. Get all that crusty build-up off all the way up to where the stem meets the guide.

The seats on your exhaust valves are badly carboned. Pic 11 in your 1st set clearly illustrates where that valve was leaking between the sections of built-up carbon. You can see the streaks the exhaust gases left behind. Wire wheel all that crap off. Once the valves (and their seats) are TOTALLY clean, you can move on to the lapping. Make sure the seats in the head are clean as well. You don't want to be lapping carbon, you want to be lapping steel.
 
You might try threading a good bolt into that stud hole to check the threads. JB Weld may work. All you can do is try I guess. You have a steel stud going into an alloy head. Chances are, the head threads are going to give out 1st.
 
You got your valves somewhat clean but not completely. I told you, that carbon is really hard and baked on there. Time for the knotted wire wheel in the 4 1/2" angle grinder. You'll want to clean the backsides of the valves as well. Get all that crusty build-up off all the way up to where the stem meets the guide.

The seats on your exhaust valves are badly carboned. Pic 11 in your 1st set clearly illustrates where that valve was leaking between the sections of built-up carbon. You can see the streaks the exhaust gases left behind. Wire wheel all that crap off. Once the valves (and their seats) are TOTALLY clean, you can move on to the lapping. Make sure the seats in the head are clean as well. You don't want to be lapping carbon, you want to be lapping steel.

Yep:thumbsup: That carbon is hard and stubborn. Still working on it. Not as much time as Id like, but there never is. I have the knotted wire wheel, thats the next stage. Wish I had a vise.....next tool....


Thanks
 
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You might try threading a good bolt into that stud hole to check the threads. JB Weld may work. All you can do is try I guess. You have a steel stud going into an alloy head. Chances are, the head threads are going to give out 1st.

Ordered a new stud. Whatever keeps it in there I guess.
 
As far as the stud goes, I think I will likely try a Helicoil....that way I can keep the ability to remove the stud if I need to. Its a low torque application, a helicoil should be ok vs. JB welding it in. Easy, but not very professional. Kinda lazy.

Cant find Keenserts anywhere near me, but fastenal has helicoil in stock.


Got my pistons off and blasted last night. Also about 60% of the top end. Gonna go over the top once more after finished to get anything I missed.

I also got the starter and starter seal out and ready for the new seal and block off plates.

I also got the valves grinded down and done. 5twins put the pressure on me. I put a knotted wire wheel on my grinder,...bad form but I clamped my grinder down to a bench and used it like a bench grinder....worked great, DANGEROUS, But it worked well.

Those valves are some tough little bastards.

All in all , things are getting there.

Sorry the arm pics are a bit fuzzy. Something about having baking soda inside my lens...Go figure.

Thanks everyone !
 

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Finished blasting the points/cam shaft seal cover thingys last night. Gotta get the gaskets off the back and clean the seal goo from the inside, and get the gasket goo off the starter cover and that seal goo cleaned up and I will be near ready for rebuild. :D

Also got my valves lapped last night. Before and after pics below. See pics above in this thread also for more comparison.

Washed down all my parts after several evenings of blasting. Put a little wd40 on a rag and rubbed down the parts that could rust. Everything looks good so far. Cant wait for reassembly. :thumbsup:
 

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