Weird engine stumble...

handlebars

XS650 Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Vancouver, BC Canada
Hello all,

Let me first start off by saying that this forum has been so very helpful to me so far. In fact it has been so informative that until now, I have gleaned much of the information I needed simply by searching related threads and such, but as winter is here (and I'm not spending all my spare moments tearing up the road:), that it was time to finally join up as a member and stop being such a creeper, haha!

I bought an 83 heritage special in June, after I lost my beloved CB500 in a very fortunate tangle with a gravel truck and trailer. Nope I'm not dead and still have limbs and wits to ride so bought myself a thumper.

Drove all the way down to Portland to buy her. The PO had done quite a few of the things to her that I was planning for a build (lowered front and rear, chopped rear hoop, Left side scrambler open pipes, Pandemonium I think) and a few things I wouldn't have thought of, namely a Joe Wiseguy enforcer 2-1 intake with a single Mikuni VM 36 carb. Despite having the recommended pilly and main jets he couldn't get it running right and gave up. That's where I came in.

I found out by emailing Joe himself that what was missing was the correct needle and needle jet. Once that was sorted out and with some fiddling I got her pretty happy. Nice torquey low throttle transition with no pops or stumbles, very smooth and even power through the range. Was quite impressed. Have never ridden a stocker, but I'm sure the intake carb and exhaust were doing something to pep it up (perhaps a few of you have input on that.)

So the last big ride of this season (about 600 miles) she ran great the whole way, no complaints at all.
That was mid September and the average temp was around 15 degrees Celsius (60 degrees F)

Ok so time to do some more work on it. The charging system was weak (surprise, right?) so I opted for a Hugh's PMA and a Pamco.

I installed the Pamco first, and to make sure all was properly timed, got it running, timed it and took her for a spin. Not so happy. It stumbled quite a bit under a load, and seemed to lack power overall. Although upper throttle seemed ok. Weird I thought. It was so happy with the TCI in there, no issues at all. I double checked the advance was lubed and moving freely and not binding (as per Pete's video), and that it just reached full advance at just over 3000, while being in the fire zone at 1000ish. I checked and stretched the springs a bit, and now the advancer moves smoothly and uniformly without visibly getting hung up anywhere.

I thought perhaps the weak charging system might have had an effect, but it ran fine when it was last ridden a month and a half previous. Nonetheless I moved on and installed the PMA and triple checked the wiring. As best i can tell, the wiring job is solid. The bike has a Sparx capacitor and also in the meantime a brand new Shorai Battery temporarily wired in parallel, so no lack of juice. The PMA is putting out out a solid 14.6volts at idle. (in that regard, I'm quite happy I swapped)

I took the bike for another go and still that annoying stumble/hiss/missing in the early throttle, and in neutral on the stand it stumbles when I crack the throttle too quick. If I roll on slowly, it seems fine. But I can remember that with the TCI it was quite responsive, and would not bog unless I really really tried to make it happen.

I tested the coil (which the PO had replaced just prior to me buying the bike so it's only like 6 months old). I got 2.9ohms across the primary terminals, no shorts anywhere, and 12,700ish Ohms across the plug terminals, where apparently between 15,000 and 20,000 is normal. I borrowed my buddy's coil which read 2.1 across the primaries and 16,200ish. Both coils have been road tested in the bike with no noticible improvement.

Valves were set right before the trip and were right on, cam chain too. I can check them again though, and likely should.

I had iridium plugs in originally, and to check I tried new plugs, though not iridiums, but no dice. They do look a bit on the blacker side, although the electrode tip is not totally fouled, and a tad toward greyer/beige

I cleaned the carb, no improvement, but could do it again, just am really stumped here. It seemed as though this was a case of "this thing runs great" with the TCI, but as soon as I put the Pamco in, then this low end stumble began. I don't really want to put the TCI back in to test, since that will involve going back to the stock alternator and reg/rec, and this Pamco PMA setup really should work right.

I'm wondering if the temperature change (it's colder and damper here in Vancouver now that we are into "winter" (as in the other much longer and wetter season) has made for the carb not being happy set as is. I can't say I'm super great with carb tuning, but it was running fine before... I've heard/read that the VM carbs are less forgiving than the stock carbs in terms of ambient conditions, so perhaps that is the cause, but could the colder and damper air really make enough difference to cause the bike to run like crap?

I should mention also that when cold, the bike starts first hot kick with the choke on (after a couple prime kicks) and once warm will start first kick with the choke off.

There is a bit of dark smoke from the pipes when I crack the throttle. Also, when I run it through the gears up to around 3rd and then pull the clutch in (at the end of my street) the bike idle lowers and almost wants to die, and I have to coax it from stalling.

Whew. That was a lot to write, but I've included as much info as I can think of. It's probably something super simple that I'm missing (hope so anyways) and I'll probably feel dumb once I find the problem, but that's okay by me as long as I find it, haha!

Anyhow, input would be appreciated.

Thanks,
And happy biking!
Jacob

Posted via Mobile

Posted via Mobile
 
Paul, that is a very good carb guide but it won't work well for him, he's running a single VM36 carb. He might try www.amckayltd.com/vm34-36.pdf that and the Sudco manual.
handlebars, you say you stretched the advancer springs. This will let it advance sooner than it should. With the advancer that Mike's or his Canadian counterpart sells most need to tighten the springs.
This may not be your problem, but it might be.
Leo
 
He might try www.amckayltd.com/vm34-36.pdf that and the Sudco manual.
handlebars, you say you stretched the advancer springs. This will let it advance sooner than it should. With the advancer that Mike's or his Canadian counterpart sells most need to tighten the springs.


Leo: I have that amckay write up, but not the sudco. I also have the VM34/36 Super Tuning Manual and reading it makes blood trickle out of my ear...

I stretched the springs because it was not reaching full advance at 3000. I didn't stretch them tons or anything. My understanding is I'm looking for a nice smooth advance that begins slightly after say 1200ish rpm and reaches full advance at 3000ish. Correct?

Jacob

Posted via Mobile
 
Jacob, what does it do when it's out on the road? What it does in neutral on the stand doesn't mean much, might even mean the opposite. As in, if it loves to rev in that no load condition it might stumble when you crack the throttle under load.

Cracking the throttle suddenly on that kind of carb is never going to be perfect but if its noticeably worse on the road than before then I can see why you're looking for reasons. I think the switch to the pamco is reason enough to expect some re-jetting. The fall weather usually just wants a turn of the pilot screw, no big changes, but an all new ignition and timing curve could definitely change how things are burning.
 
Looking back at your first post I just realized you're my neighbour aren't you? I'm the guy across the alley with the blue RD (who's XS has been a pile of parts for 4 years).
 
I would double and triple check your timing. make sure that you have TDC correct. use a piston stop to do this.

I'm quite sure my timing marks are correct. I originally did like Hugh said and removed the woodruff key from the crank. Torqued the rotor nut to 26lbs (yes with LocTite). After a few rides I checked the timing again, and my mark was off by about 60deg from where it was supposed to be. To make sure all wasnt FUBAR inside i found TDC by looking in the spark plug hole. The rotor had spun on the crank from where it was when I installed it, losing my reference. I put the woodruff key back in,as it seemed to fit in there just fine anyway. (my two cents here: No disrespect to Hugh, but I can't see why deleting the woodruff key is part of the PMA swap, since it seems to fit the PMA just fine without any modification. Perhaps I'm missing something, and if so, please set me straight)

At any rate, the PMA now holds it's position on the crank, and my timing reference is now solid. But I will double check TDC against my timing marks again today. Will sighting through the plug hole suffice, since I don't have a stop?

I will also double check that the timing isn't advancing prematurely.
Thank you for the replies.

Jacob

Posted via Mobile
 
Cracking the throttle suddenly on that kind of carb is never going to be perfect but if its noticeably worse on the road than before then I can see why you're looking for reasons. I think the switch to the pamco is reason enough to expect some re-jetting. The fall weather usually just wants a turn of the pilot screw, no big changes, but an all new ignition and timing curve could definitely change how things are burning.

Yes, that's it exactly. It's noticably worse on the road. Not tons worse. It starts on the same first kick it always has, so I know I am close.

So I assumed that nothing with the carb would change but I guess this is not the case?

Seems to be pointing to more jetting then.
Well I'm heading to my shop today. Maybe I can do some test rides since it isn't raining, but chances are by the time I get there it will be.

Thanks all, will report back with what I find.
Cheers
J

Posted via Mobile
 
My pile of parts is inside the shop at least these days. Being very slowly worked over but I don't expect to be riding it until the spring.

I don't have any VM parts that would work for you but I have the BS38 carbs from my XS sitting around so if you want to see if a CV carb (or two) works better for you you're welcome to borrow them.
 
Thanks for the offer Carl.

I have a set of stock carbs and intakes that the PO gave me with the bike. (At some point somebody thought it wise to paint them black...) anyway, given the non stock pipes I have I would probably have to order new jets for those anyway, plus pods and a throttle cable, etc. I was sorta thinking that I might end up with a more stable setup if I went back to stock carbs, but from reading threads here it seems this setup has proven ok for others. I gotta learn anyway so might as well dive in

I have a 25 pilot in there right now with a 190 main. I also have a 22.5 pilot and a 200 main waiting on the bench. Given that my trouble is off idle (plus the puffs of black smoke) I'm goIng to try the leaner pilot first. Hopefully that get it closer.

PS what kind of build you doing again?

J

Posted via Mobile
 
Sounds good, I'm sure you'll get it sorted. Judging by your other bike you know what you're doing over there. That was a nice CB.

Mine's sort of an updated stock setup. So far I have new wheels for modern tires and new suspension but I also have the original pipes and plan to restore the stock paint. Not sure what that makes it, but having ridden it stock for years before and then that RD after I never wanted to ride with 40 year old suspension again. I actually did a bunch of 500 mile days on the RD this summer, holding it 500 below redline for 12 hours a day and it never missed a beat. Tough old thing but too small for full size people.

I'll have to check out your XS, sounds cool. Those carbs I have are up two on the mains and one on the pilots I think from the pods and really open megaphones I had on the bike so they'd probably work but I understand you'd rather get the one you have working.
 
Not sure what that makes it, but having ridden it stock for years before and then that RD after I never wanted to ride with 40 year old suspension again. I actually did a bunch of 500 mile days on the RD this summer, holding it 500 below redline for 12 hours a day and it never missed a beat. Tough old thing but too small for full size people.


It's funny, old or near zero suspension is kind of all I know, haha. My CB had the original rear shocks on it. I know new suspension probably works wonders but I just never got around to swapping it out. Got used to it, I suppose, learned to work with it. Now this XS has a bratstyle bobber thing kinda happening, with shorty shocks on it, pretty stiff and just barely more forgiving than a hardtail. Again, you learn to ride it how it is and get used to it, but then again I'm no animal in corners anyway. I've tamed my riding out some since crashing. Its kind of more just about being on the bike and hearing the motor and digging the experience and the scenery more than all out sport riding for me. If I wanted a sport bike I'd buy something a lot newer. Likely not going to happen.

My buddy had a '72 RD 350 that was the same, had original suspension and original tires too. He rode the crap out of it. How he didn't die is beyond me...

Yeah you're welcome to come check out the shop anytime. Its close by, just at Clark and 2nd. I'm there a lot these days so PM me and I'll give you my contact info, unless I gave it to you already.

J

Posted via Mobile
 
Back
Top