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What have you done to your XS today?
- Thread starter I am Carbon
- Start date
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- maintenance
Yes, that Fiat regulator is the correct "A" type (ground regulating) for the '80 and newer alternators. It's a cool looking little unit with it's finned alloy case, nice enough I think to mount externally on a custom build and not detract from the looks. Certainly better looking than the normal tin box types.
And it's also very small, probably half the size of those tin box units.
And it's also very small, probably half the size of those tin box units.
Ebay has 'em for 6 bucks and change.
Robert Reed
XS650 Addict
Yes, that Fiat regulator is the correct "A" type (ground regulating) for the '80 and newer alternators. It's a cool looking little unit with it's finned alloy case, nice enough I think to mount externally on a custom build and not detract from the looks. Certainly better looking than the normal tin box types.
And it's also very small, probably half the size of those tin box units.
And only a shade over $10 delivered?!?!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VR794-1979...0&_nkw=vr794&_from=R40&rt=nc&LH_TitleDesc=0|0
Yes, that Fiat regulator is the correct "A" type (ground regulating) for the '80 and newer alternators. It's a cool looking little unit with it's finned alloy case, nice enough I think to mount externally on a custom build and not detract from the looks. Certainly better looking than the normal tin box types.
And it's also very small, probably half the size of those tin box units.
Man! I really like the looks of those. And they ship fro Texas instead of China! Better than my Chinese rectifiers ( of which I have 3 ) .
But remember MM, these are regulators, not rectifiers, and this "A" type ground switching unit won't work on the '79 and older 650s unless you do the nylon screw mod to the brush mounts.
Even though I didn't have an immediate use for one when I ran across these, I bought a couple anyway just because they were so cheap, lol. Now that I have a later model, I can actually use one if I want. Eventually I probably will try it but I have perfectly functioning stock units at the moment, and more pressing changes to do to the bike.
Even though I didn't have an immediate use for one when I ran across these, I bought a couple anyway just because they were so cheap, lol. Now that I have a later model, I can actually use one if I want. Eventually I probably will try it but I have perfectly functioning stock units at the moment, and more pressing changes to do to the bike.
Yes, you could run the red to the brown wire at the inner brush, but any switched power wire in the harness would work. When I get around to trying one of these, I will probably go to the power wire in the original reg/rec plug. But I'm also kicking around the relay mod that Pamcopete has mentioned. With that you actually read the system voltage right from the battery, not one of the switched wires in the harness. That eliminates any possibility of getting a lower than actual battery voltage reading because of bad connections in the harness. That stops the over-charging the regulator would demand because of the false low reading it got. Apparently this mod puts much less strain on the charging system components (rotor, stator, etc.). They're not forced to work any harder than is absolutely necessary.
highboy_coupe
XS650 Addict
Finally got round to doing the camshaft seals, oh the sins of the PO....
So all my gaskets are basically made out of this sticky black gunk, with the exception of the rocker cover gasket, which seems to be made out of a much harder orange gunk.
The camshaft seals had also welded themselves to the cover, and resembled bakalite - hard and brittle - this was the reason they weren't doing much sealing.
I had to use a scotchbrite pad and carb cleaner to scrub parts of the old seals off the end covers.
Even the o-rings had been "glued" in place with black instant gasket.
Anyway, all cleaned off and new seals in:
Ok also got started on my fuse box, wiring in an 8(9) pin block connector, I need to decide what fuse box to use, I don't like the little 4 way blade fuse holder I got because the spade connectors put the wires at 90 degrees to the block.
Incidentally, what should the main positive cable look like? Mine has a really long metal strip with an eyelet on the end, the rubber doesn't cover it properly at all.
So all my gaskets are basically made out of this sticky black gunk, with the exception of the rocker cover gasket, which seems to be made out of a much harder orange gunk.
The camshaft seals had also welded themselves to the cover, and resembled bakalite - hard and brittle - this was the reason they weren't doing much sealing.
I had to use a scotchbrite pad and carb cleaner to scrub parts of the old seals off the end covers.
Even the o-rings had been "glued" in place with black instant gasket.
Anyway, all cleaned off and new seals in:
Ok also got started on my fuse box, wiring in an 8(9) pin block connector, I need to decide what fuse box to use, I don't like the little 4 way blade fuse holder I got because the spade connectors put the wires at 90 degrees to the block.
Incidentally, what should the main positive cable look like? Mine has a really long metal strip with an eyelet on the end, the rubber doesn't cover it properly at all.
Finally got tired of the XS running the battery down when idling! So I invested in a light switch so I can turn the lights off during warm up or when working on the bike:
Here's how it looks on the bike:
I had to extend the wiring to cope with the rototiller bars. It works nicely and has an amazing little red light to indicate when the lights are on. At 1200rpm I now have 13.1 - 13.4V and at 1500rpm (my usual idle setting) I have 13.8 - 14.1V. Cost £5.95 delivered within the UK, or approximately £3.00 if you wait 4 weeks from China. Why didn't I do this sooner??
Here's how it looks on the bike:
I had to extend the wiring to cope with the rototiller bars. It works nicely and has an amazing little red light to indicate when the lights are on. At 1200rpm I now have 13.1 - 13.4V and at 1500rpm (my usual idle setting) I have 13.8 - 14.1V. Cost £5.95 delivered within the UK, or approximately £3.00 if you wait 4 weeks from China. Why didn't I do this sooner??
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I know this is a simple thing, but I opened my locked gas cap without a key. That is a big step for me. I think the inside is in goo shape too. What should I be looking for? I see no rust on first look but maybe some varnish in the bottom.
that's been coated, if it's all stuck on good you're golden.
Installed a bit of bling today.
I always hated the front engine mount so I sprang for HHB's engine mounts. Much better and a tad lighter. I left it bare metal (clear coated) because I like how it kinda disappears instead of standing out like a once chromed/now rusty hunk of metal. I have Hugh's upper mount as well.
I always hated the front engine mount so I sprang for HHB's engine mounts. Much better and a tad lighter. I left it bare metal (clear coated) because I like how it kinda disappears instead of standing out like a once chromed/now rusty hunk of metal. I have Hugh's upper mount as well.
Hugh makes a lot of good stuff. I have pretty much decided on buying a full set of engine mounts from him as well, probably next year. My front engine mount is rusty and looks like shit. I really like his “Windowed” upper mount. He has the best damn attitude and customer Service you could ask for. I bought his PMA for my chop back in ‘15, and I bent the mounting plate on install. I emailed him and he promptly sent me out a new plate, new mounting hardware, AND a sweet T shirt, all free of charge!
That’s a neat little switch Paul!
highboy_coupe
XS650 Addict
What is it?, Looks 90s Honda-ish....
