What have you done to your XS today?

Thanks Mailman. I cannot take any credit as far as the XS is concerned, I was looking for an XS but something rather less shiny than the one I ended up with. I really like survivor bikes, the ageing process on a bike intrigues me, bringing back to life bikes that have stood lots of years, yet often with a little care and fettling the come back to life.
You may remember sayings like “ Jap Crap” and “ that won’t last; see what it’s like in ten years”. Well here they are 20, 30; 40, 50 years later, still able to run.
The XS was restored by a person much like yourself, he is an ex RAF mechanic and was very thorough, nothing but the best would do, he also thoroughly enjoyed the restoration process. He had to sell some of his bikes to fund the purchase of an expensive sports car as his wife was unable to ride anymore. I was the lucky one that went to see it and bought it. Too shiny really but I will put up with it, can’t ride it in the rain as I do my other bikes.
I believe Dec 21st is the midwinter solstice, here comes summer.
Looking forward to the big reveal day of your bike.
 
Fitted an Accel 140403S super coil to the old girl.
Man what an improvement in idle stability. I knew the old original 40 year old coil needed replacing and this was just a bolt on and change the wire terminals. Now my motor is not fully original but i ai am not a purerist.
Got hold of a set of 8 VW valve adjuster as mine had some pitting on them. I will rotate these thru every second or third service.
Next i am ready to tackle my Brembo front caliper upgrade. Time for the dual front to get on a diet ane trim the hell down!!
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Did you know that M12-1.75 pitch threads are friggin' nearly impossible to find (rear footpegs)? I had to make these acorn nuts to that pitch from another size...

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IMG_1558 by michael delage, on Flickr


Was thinking about how this would work. Old Ducati 916 series shocks. I've got a pile of them. Thinking 2 of them would be way too stiff. Plus, they are for a linkage rear, not sure if that would reduce or increase spring rate and damping? Anyone care to guess? Am I wasting my time? Or is it worth a shot? I do need a stiffer rear, the bike is getting a sidecar added...

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56599218876__7F135E2D-5A19-4947-B916-D2ABD695A72E by michael delage, on Flickr
 
...Was thinking about how this would work. Old Ducati 916 series shocks. I've got a pile of them. Thinking 2 of them would be way too stiff. Plus, they are for a linkage rear, not sure if that would reduce or increase spring rate and damping? Anyone care to guess? Am I wasting my time? Or is it worth a shot? I do need a stiffer rear, the bike is getting a sidecar added...

I haven't seen any postings about checking compression/rebound damping ratios. Touch on it a bit in Jim's thread.

http://www.xs650.com/threads/kd-shocks-question.51514/

I recall a few oldskool rules, mostly for auto setups. Drag racing, you want 90/10 compression/rebound in the front, so that the front will rise easily and stay there, for better weight transfer to the rear. Road racing you want the reverse on all 4, so that the car will squat and tighten up in rough conditions. Never got into this beyond factory setup for motorcycles...
 
I took the bike out of it’s “official” hibernation yesterday since it was nearly 40. The carbs were leaking gas when I turned on the petcocks and choke. This happened the last time that I had the bike sitting for a while and cold started it, on thanksgiving I believe. Is this somewhat normal? I’m assuming something inside the carb is sticking from the cold and not being used. Once I got it running it stopped. Also, the bike died while idling, after it had been idling for a few minutes. I’m assumimg the battery was drained a bit and idling wasnt enough to charge it. I pulled out and went for about a half hour ride, mostly at 35, but a few stints at 55. No problems. The chinese LED bulbs arrived last night and I have this weekend to myself, so I’m planning on installing them and going for another cruise on saturday. Forecast says a high of 43!
 
Ok, I have a question, hoping a guru can chime in in this. Since I treated my fuel so that as ai understand it, I am preventing it from breaking down, and most of the winterization seems to be about preventing corrosion, is it best to park the bike with treated fuel IN the carbs, or should I empty them out by running it dry and emptying the bowls?
 
When you expect your parts to be anodized like this:

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53638-MMS-1544633018657-attachment1-20181212_114053 by michael delage, on Flickr

And half of them come back looking like this:

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53639-MMS-1544633018657-attachment1-20181212_114113 by michael delage, on Flickr

What's the word? Perplexed? Chagrinned? Dismayed? Livid? Yes, that's it, Livid...

Moral of the story: die cast parts don't accept color in the anodizing process. I wish the coater had mentioned this before getting this far...
 
When you expect your parts to be anodized like this:

32418664098_c813c5d75e_b.jpg
53638-MMS-1544633018657-attachment1-20181212_114053 by michael delage, on Flickr

And half of them come back looking like this:

32418665718_c7fe81bc5e_b.jpg
53639-MMS-1544633018657-attachment1-20181212_114113 by michael delage, on Flickr

What's the word? Perplexed? Chagrinned? Dismayed? Livid? Yes, that's it, Livid...

Moral of the story: die cast parts don't accept color in the anodizing process. I wish the coater had mentioned this before getting this far...

Man, that’s rough, sorry to hear of your bad experience.
You might think that the guy who does that for a living, might have an understanding of how it works?
 
Attempted to install Pamco Pete ignition. But no way could it be mounted in the suggested method so had to fabricate mount. Hope to finish up tomorrow.
 
You might think that the guy who does that for a living, might have an understanding of how it works?
I'm betting he does... and just don't care. A quick google of anodizing "cast aluminum" will explain why it turns grey... Methinks "green" is the only color he see's.
 
I'm shocked. American Anodizing out of Fort Wayne, Indiana. They've been in business a very long time, have a great reputation. One of the few businesses that do small-batch jobs any more.

They were very apologetic, offered to remove all coatings, and return them free of charge.

I'd never heard of this "die cast doesn't take anodizing" before, and I've done a bunch of reading on it, as I had contemplated doing this myself.

Unsure of what I'm doing next. I didn't like how the gas cap or carb tops turned out with the gold spray paint. Maybe powder coat them all gold? Still undecided.

On to more positive things. I got my filter adapter plate from xs650shop.de and wanted to determine the correct filter for it before I installed it. I don't want to be stuck having to order from Europe every time I need one.

My initial guess was a Smart car. Man, I was right! 2018 Smart Fortwo 1.0 liter naturally aspirated. A Wix 57207, $15 shipped:

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IMG_1576 by michael delage, on Flickr

These were filters that didn't fit well, but would work in a pinch (less than 2 turns engaged on threads, will hang down too low, etc)

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IMG_1560 by michael delage, on Flickr
 
I'd never heard of this "die cast doesn't take anodizing" before, and I've done a bunch of reading on it, as I had contemplated doing this myself.
I saw your post earlier so I googled it. To enhance the pour into a mold.... what they refer to as "melt-fluidity", silicone is alloyed into the aluminum in a higher than normal percentage. Silicone won't take an anodized finish.
 
Gary, here are the pics you requested. I must say after getting the PAMCO ignition installed today I am very impressed with the ease of starting both electric and kick. Will have to wait at least 4 months before I can try it on the road. I don't ride on the ice or on roads that have Mag Chloride sprayed on them.
 

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