What have you done to your XS today?

Yes, I got both old races out no problem, got both new ones in easy. They went in smoothly and I’m pretty sure they are both fully seated. but I also used both the new grease seals included with the all balls kit; one below the bottom race and one above the top race underneath the dust cap. Those two seals and the extra length of the new upper bearing add up to probably 1/4 inch of extra material, taking up just enough threads that I can’t get both those nuts on. I understand that one is to lock the other, but if there’s not enough room for both, doesn't having the upper tree “crown” tightened down kind of do the same thing? If there isn't room for the nut to spin off, there shouldn't really be a problem, right? I could have sworn I read about someone else Explaining this already and it being okay. I don’t see how I could possibly fit both nuts on the stem while utilizing the new grease seals AND have room for the crown to be screwed down
 
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You can remove the upper grease seal. It doesn't do anything and it's not needed. That'll give you a little back. Did you remove the original seal at the bottom and replace with the new one, or are both of them down there?
Yes the top triple helps hold the nut in place, but the point is it was designed for 2 nuts. If 2 won't fit, it's a good indication that somethings not right. Not right might be OK for a chain guard... or sidecover or some such.... but steering is kinda important. If it were me, I'd revisit it.
 
Okay, just to be sure I understand- the old races are just the parts that the loose balls sat in, correct? One on top and one on bottom. I knocked both of those out easily. There’s nothing else in there that needs to come out before installing the new races, is there? And to answer your second question Jim, Both the original rubber seal AND one of the new ones from all balls are on the bottom. The original one kinda sat in a recessed groove, I remember thinking the new one wouldn't really take up any space. Maybe I was wrong
 
This a pic from the Tech section. The second nut should go on.
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There are some good pics of how things should look when assembling starting at post 15. You might want to look them over and compare to your bike.
http://www.xs650.com/threads/which-...le-bearings-in-the-head-tube.3756/#post-39647
 
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Machine, I DID remove the bottom race from the tree, AFTER stretching the original seal over it. Good call though. Here is a pic of my neck after seating the new race. looks fully seated to me, matches the pic in the tech wright up.
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Okay, just to be sure I understand- the old races are just the parts that the loose balls sat in, correct? One on top and one on bottom. I knocked both of those out easily. There’s nothing else in there that needs to come out before installing the new races, is there?
The old, just like the new have 4 races, two on top and two on bottom. Two (upper and lower) go inside the steering head and two go on the steering stem. One is firmly seated to the bottom and the other sit on top just below the dust cover.

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Good call, yes I guess I worded that a little confusing. I meant theres only two races that are actually set in the neck itself. The pics in the tech section answered my question. Obviously the outer races just fall off when you take the stem out. Thanks for clarifying though
 
Obviously the outer races just fall off when you take the stem out.
I'm still not certain you removed the lower race from the stem?
And how certain are you that you fully seated the new lower race on the stem?
 
I have all four old races sitting in an old tool box, I know I got them all out/off. Two knocked out of the neck, one tapped off the lower stem, and the other sandwiched between the dust cap. Judging by the pics I just posted, I think my lower race is seated fully in the neck. It went in with just a little pressure by hand, and I used the old race against it and a hammer to give it a few taps after, and it didn't budge. I just re-read your last post Jim; I guess I don’t have any pics of the new race on the stem. I remember feeling sure it was down. Guess that doesn't count for much right now. Looks like removing both those new seals may give me
Just enough threads to get both those nuts on though. Great. I get to repeat last weekend this weekend.
 
Judging by the pics I just posted, I think my lower race is seated fully in the neck.
Yeah... I was asking if you're certain the lower (inner) race is fully seated on the bottom of the stem.... not the one inside the head tube.
 
I used the Pyramid taper bearings on an 81 SH and they fitted well. Anyone planning to do this conversion should take the time to cut two slots in the bottom of the neck to enable removal of the race from the bottom bearing in the future if needed. The slots should be wide enough to allow a screw driver or long punch/drift to be inserted from the top to knock the race out. I filed the slots in but the metal is very hard. The easier option, as others have done, is to use a Dremel. The top race needs no slots because their design allows for easy removal by inserting a punch/drift/screwdriver from the bottom.

When you tighten the bearing the first time the races will fit tighter in place. I rechecked after a 20 mile ride and they had loosened up a little.
 
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Chiming in an example of MikesXS tapered steering stem bearings fitment on the 79 Special II.

After reading threads concerning steering stem bearing replacement and the associated spacing variations, I am pleased to share this example of a "perfect fit" using all and only the 79 front fork trim chrome and bushings. Top shield and both notched nuts. I hope this can compare with other XS examples to help sort some of this out.
-RT
 

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Okay confused about something- in this post from the tech link about installing the bearings, he says
“This is whats supposed to come out. The upper and lower races . Two parts each. The ball bearings went on the floor..tink tink tink. Notice the new tapered bearings in the bottom of the picture.That black rubber dust to the left seal goes all the way down against the lower tree.”
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so when I put that black seal back on, it was down at the bottom of the tree, not on the actual shaft that the bearing sits on. I think that’s why I remember thinking using both wouldnt hurt. So when I used the lower grease seal from all balls, that original rubber seal shouldn't be interfering with it. I thought I read a post about utilizing the provided seals for the LOWER part of the tree. Are you saying I shouldn't use either lower OR upper?
 
Welll, after 2 surgeries this month I am back to the XS650. Still doing brakes, I can not get the MC to pump fluid???\
I have done every thing I can think of, compressed air from the top and bottom, tied the lever back for a day of so,,
nothing helps. I will take the MC off tomorrow and dismantle it. I hope I can find a kit for it??
Any suggestions??? I am running g out of ideas All I want to do is get the brakes working so I can sell it.
 
Old Okie, have you tried putting some clear PVC tubing over the bleed nipple (slightly open: 1/8 turn) and giving it a good suck? This worked for me once on the RD250.
 
See I do not recall seeing any additional lower grease seal on my 79. Had it all apart for grease and to check over the PO's work
(everywhere)
 
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