What have you done to your XS today?

I think I may finally have to get into the carbs for a look see. I’m tired of not being able to use my sidestand because of gas spilling out, or gas dumping all over my engine at startup when I turn on the choke. I’m also wondering if maybe the reason my top speed has decreased is because something in the carb is gummed up or misadjusted. It’s been almost two years since having them rebuilt, so I guess they had a good run without any sort of maintenance.
 
Static timing take two ! 79 engine. Using the 12V bulb tool was fun, I really enjoyed that. I would say my point gap is set at "tight .014"
And my static for each cylinder is now very even looking on the stator timing scale but both are on the retarded side of the scale maybe even more than this pic shows.
Cant wait for a run check with the timing light.
So how far retarded at idle is a good idea?
Thx -R
 

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Perhaps. It still runs fine, but I’ve lost torque and power around 65-70, and the leaks I mentioned earlier. Somethings obviously amiss. When I first got the bike it didn't leak gas but it wouldn't go past 55, so I know the floats can effect the speed. Since I didn't do it myself I don’t have the best understanding of how it works. And don’t nobody bother linking me the carb guide, I’ve read it several times. I’m just working up to it.
 
Static timing take two ! 79 engine. Using the 12V bulb tool was fun, I really enjoyed that. I would say my point gap is set at "tight .014"
And my static for each cylinder is now very even looking on the stator timing scale but both are on the retarded side of the scale maybe even more than this pic shows.
Cant wait for a run check with the timing light.
So how far retarded at idle is a good idea?
Thx -R
Need to bump it up a hair. Just shoot for dead center at first and see how she goes. :rock:
 
Spose I will have to. The timing light will tell the truth soon. I'm @ work here but perhaps an evening before my usual Friday goof off time
;)
 
TZ, sounds like the fuel level in your carbs is too high. It will cause a rich condition thru all the ranges.
TZ, the last time you had your carbs done, you had it done? - as in didn't do it yourself?
 
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Perhaps. It still runs fine, but I’ve lost torque and power around 65-70, and the leaks I mentioned earlier. Somethings obviously amiss. When I first got the bike it didn't leak gas but it wouldn't go past 55, so I know the floats can effect the speed. Since I didn't do it myself I don’t have the best understanding of how it works. And don’t nobody bother linking me the carb guide, I’ve read it several times. I’m just working up to it.


Having a float level gauge helps:D. Also make sure all your jets are at the standard settings You also may have some very small "air leaks" from your carb gaskets not being set properly. Not at all saying you did it wrong, but if the gaskets were changed, were the metal areas the gaskets set in cleaned THOROUGHLY? like no carb bits, not even the smallest ones.

It happened to me to. kept leaking and leaking, but then took the carbs apart and saw that bits and pieces of the last gaskets were still stuck to both areas of the carb bowls. SO, scrapped it clean and shiny and no more leaks :hump:
 
77 BS38's came with brass floats. Guess.. maybe one is leaking and sinking allowing the needle seat to weep!
Kinda rhymes huh lol
That could be. I have the BS38's and I love em'. All factory settings. It will be interesting to see what the change to the pea shooters will do to my tuning.
 
I have a sore shoulder today so decided to make a permanent alteration to my garage floor to make it easier to get the bike on the centerstand. I screwed an 18mm thick piece of wood to the floor to partially raise the back wheel, so less lifting to do:
Ramp.jpg
This is a good modification to do if you have an XS650 Special where the centerstand was not tailored to fit the change to a 16" rear wheel.
 
I have a sore shoulder today so decided to make a permanent alteration to my garage floor to make it easier to get the bike on the centerstand. I screwed an 18mm thick piece of wood to the floor to partially raise the back wheel, so less lifting to do:
View attachment 163755
This is a good modification to do if you have an XS650 Special where the centerstand was not tailored to fit the change to a 16" rear wheel.

Great Idea, Paul!!! I have just the piece of ply wood too! I have no problem with the Six Fiddy, but the damn Honda weighs 10,000 lbs.! Being on crushed rock doesn't help.
 
If anyone is thinking about re-building their carbs and has not already changed out the carb bowl and diaphragm top screws with Hex heads, think about doing it. It makes life far easier to pull the bowls with the carbs mounted using a hex socket. Helps to get the bowls tight too, but be careful, you could strip the threads easily! Bowl hex screws are M4-0.7 X 12mm. Diaphragm top screws are M4-0.7 X 16. ( I used the Fullerkreg brand #'s FUD0420014 and FUD0420016 stainless, from Amazon. There is a hundred in each box! ) Put a little anti-seize on them. You'll be glad you used them.
 
That is no joke! If you're a ham fisted gorilla, just use partially stripped cross points. It's safer.

:laugh: What JMM said! A screw that is so tight it's "shitting little squealy worms," ( that's mech talk) is not going to make up for the fact the gasket surface or "O" ring groove is dirty or you didn't clean off pieces of the old gasket or used an old gasket! Exception on gasket reuse - Cometic gaskets - expensive but Absolutely Outstanding. No sealer on your gaskets, No Stick, No seep, No "cold flow" No scraping! ( did I say expensive?) ( Pay for it's self first time you have to pull the cover and mess with the starter wishbone, spring, thingy, crap. Sounds like somebody dropped a Maf bag full of nuts and bolts into a drip pan off the wing of a ... Boy, that brings it back! (sorry, I get carried away) :wink2:
 
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