What have you done to your XS today?

That would depend if you are using a relay or not, with relay you would not need a very high amp one.

My wheel bearings came in so I got the wheel on. What would be a good amperage push button switch to use for a hidden starter button?
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I'm sorry that is what I am doing. No relay.
Without a relay you would need a start button that would handle the size of wire of your starter cable.
I'm using the original relay that was on the bike and triggering the relay with a start button using 16ga wire. Here is a picture of front side and wiring side of mine.
 

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Been working on the wire harness and dragged wires inside the frametubes. Allso broke a mounting on my coil errrr...

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Your starter draws 35 amps no load, under load 100 amps, locked 300 amps. So a starter relay or solenoid with at least a 100 amp rating will work. 200 would be better.
The stock starter relay is about the smallest I've found that is rated large enough.
Garden tractor starter relays work but are larger. Ford solenoids work but again are larger.
You might find a heavy enough switch but it won't be a small pushbutton like you want.
Old farm tractors used heavy switches but are bigger than a starter relay.
Leo
 
Your starter draws 35 amps no load, under load 100 amps, locked 300 amps. So a starter relay or solenoid with at least a 100 amp rating will work. 200 would be better.
The stock starter relay is about the smallest I've found that is rated large enough.
Garden tractor starter relays work but are larger. Ford solenoids work but again are larger.
You might find a heavy enough switch but it won't be a small pushbutton like you want.
Old farm tractors used heavy switches but are bigger than a starter relay.
Leo

Thank You XSLeo.
I was trying to get away with as few wires as possible. Sounds to me that if I just try this small starter button it will melt up the wiring while starting.
 
Been working on the wire harness and dragged wires inside the frametubes. Allso broke a mounting on my coil errrr...

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After hearing you were pulling wires through the frame Im considering that for my run of wires from my electronics box to in front of the tank, but I'd have to put a least a 1/2" hole in the backbone tube. I did pull my 5 main wires in their loom today and took off old sleeve handle bar switches and put a smaller sleeve on because the one that came on it was way too big and I did away with 2 of the wires anyway. I cut off old bullet connectors and put new ones on so that they match the size of female connectors Im using. I did not like the quality of the Chinese ones that came on it. Ill see how well I can hide that loom running up to the headlight before I put holes in the backbone. Here is a couple pictures of what I did today.
Added a picture of the relays that will go in the headlight bucket for hi-low headlight and horn. Smaller one is the spdt 30amp for headlight.
 

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Today I fabbed some rabbit ear bar monts for my springer. Once installed there will be no riser and it will look like the bars are an extension of the rear springer legs.
 
Almost what Ive done too. I bent my rails also, I did not keep the round rear part though but I still have it. I tried to add picture but it wants to be upside down. Gotta figure that out.


If you can figure it out I'd like to see it. I think it flows nice with the rear seat loop. I gotta give credit to Weston at Counter Balance, his brat build inspired me to go this route.
 
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