What have you done to your XS today?

The SG suffered a condition that I had heard of but, I thought she would never get. Fractured swingarm shaft. I had noticed a change of handling but thought it was just need to adjust the chain. Nope. Found the shaft hanging out on the left and the nut and retainer missing on the rt side. Luckily I have a spare in my parts stash. I just have to find the best axle and spacer for the replacement.
:(
Pics?
 
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Very pretty, how do you like that seat? Saw them online, just wondering.
 
I've had the '76 (Miss June '20) up on milk crates for awhile, initially to fix a left-hand case leak.

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Seemed to be either the primary sprocket seal or shifter seal, so I replaced both.
Bob's nice photo-heavy thread was helpful
http://www.xs650.com/threads/replacing-engine-seals-part-one-the-shifter-seal.52589/

Upon inspection, there was a little bit of uneven drag in front brakes when I spun the wheel.
I had rebuilt the master back in 2013 when I restored this bike,
so I decided to rebuild the caliper, even tho the pistons were moving well.

There was just a bit of corrosion in the bores, and the pistons cleaned up nice with just a rag.

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Installed new seals.

The brake disk surface wasn't great, with pitting from neglect from the PO; he left the bike outdoors.

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So, I sent it off to TrueDisk in Michigan, as I was unable to find someone local to grind a new surface.
His website is rather impressive. https://truedisk.net/
On the phone, Tom was friendly and easy to talk to.
He said he would true the disc first using a mallet.
Turns out mine didn't need truing.

He works at home, having a day job.
Promised me a day or 2 turn-around, but that didn't happen.
He got it on a saturday, and hadn't even looked at his packages yet when I called on wednesday.
Did the work on thursday, billed me on Friday, and shipped it that day.

Looks good:

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The disc was 7.02mm prior to cutting, and 6.86mm after, so he took off .16mm.

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Cost:
Shipping to him $15 flat rate USPS medium box
grinding: $ 45
surprize surcharge $10 for "handling, insurance (no documentation of this provided), Paypal fee"
return shipping $15

So, it was $85 total. Nice work, but I think I'll look harder for a local shop to do this next time.

Gonna put it back together tomorrow........
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I somehow missed this when you posted it, that rotor looks super! I do not understand why nobody wants to turn motorcycle rotors. I remember years ago calling around trying to find someone. Anyways yours looks better than new! I hope you got your oil leak stopped, and how the heck did you get your bike up on those scary milk crates? :yikes: I’d knock that over for sure. I’m surprised you don’t have a Harbor Freight Motorcycle jack , so you can strap that puppy down.
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I somehow missed this when you posted it, that rotor looks super! I do not understand why nobody wants to turn motorcycle rotors. I remember years ago calling around trying to find someone. Anyways yours looks better than new! I hope you got your oil leak stopped, and how the heck did you get your bike up on those scary milk crates? :yikes: I’d knock that over for sure. I’m surprised you don’t have a Harbor Freight Motorcycle jack , so you can strap that puppy down.
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I believe the requirement for our rotors is a Blanchard surface grinder. If you do a search for Blanchard Grinding, you will find the service more readily.

Yes, TrueDisk used a surface grinder. I believe that the steel in these rotors is closer to stainless, which makes turning them unworkable.

Marty, I'll try your search terms today and see what I get locally.

Bob, I've got a couple motorcycle jacks which have their purposes, but I use an electric ceiling-mounted winch to raise the bikes (even the FJR1300) up to the milk crates. Its makes for a surprisingly stable platform, and I keep the lifting straps connected to the winch just in case of some sort of freak accident or earthquake.
 
:whistle: Dang it, helpful opinions welcome here, on this lathe turning rotor plan.. See as a favor I stepped in to assist another member in attempt to turn a 76 rotor.
So I made a mandrel, loaded and faced the mandrel. Checked fit on the lathe bed. Thought too long and left it there over night awhile back. Monday morning my shop manager threw a small fit telling me to pull my motorcycle parts out of sight. After hours only :(
Boss claims that using a single tip facing tool cutting one face at a time will make too much noise, chatter and ruin the disc :umm:
Well, I just can't stand being told what I cannot do (red head) and am waiting for opportunity while considering the process.
Very slow rpm seems like a win but.. I sure would feel bad to fail. Anybody experienced this? -R
 

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Very pretty, how do you like that seat? Saw them online, just wondering.
Keith, Its a firm seat, but I've found it to be comfy. However, this bike is not one that I ride long distances, so I don't have a 2-hour road test of it.

The hump is located the same distance from the tank as the bump on the '83 seat.
I noticed that some aftermarket humps are located further back.

2019.Calendar76.InnerCity.seat.jpg
 
A shade tree engineering method:
I just remembered something RetiredGentleman told me once, he said he surfaced a disc by mounting the disc to a drill press and laying a flat file across it. He said it worked well. :shrug:

Marty, I’m going to look into that Blanchard grinding. :thumbsup:
 
Anybody experienced this? -R
Way back when I lived in Florida, me and a buddy tried turning the rotors on our RD350's. Don't recall what lathe he had, but it was a nice, big one. We weren't pro's like you, but we couldn't stop the chatter. Ruined one disk.. gave up... went to a brake shop that had a proper grinder. Good luck.
 
A shade tree engineering method:
I just remembered something RetiredGentleman told me once, he said he surfaced a disc by mounting the disc to a drill press and laying a flat file across it. He said it worked well. :shrug:

Marty, I’m going to look into that Blanchard grinding. :thumbsup:
You brought back some old memories; I successfully used the large flat mill bastard file method on my RX7 and 350Z brake discs years ago; I would do them once a year to keep up with the grooves. The steel was soft enough that the process was pretty easy.
 
Boss claims that using a single tip facing tool cutting one face at a time will make too much noise, chatter and ruin the disc
He might be right. When I used to turn automotive rotors both sides were cut at the same time. Also a rubber belt with weights was wrapped around it to stop the chattering.
I'm not a machinist, I would guess high speed may be better than low speed for cutting. Sometimes you just have to try different different things and see what works. Good lucks!
 
My name is Yamahama and I've done nothing for a while...:thumbsdown:. I guess my lazy bones machinist finished my engine work a month and ago after having it for 2 months and I have not touched the bike since. Guess I caught his laziness. But, just got a text from my painter...candy color done needs sanding and clear. Everything else is here except doing reassembly..some polishing/sanding aluminum..odds n ends. Better get with it. The end is near, cooler weather (less rain) is coming. Today, I found some photos of my old bike in 1978! I saw one for sale a few weeks ago supposedly low miles and it had just sold in state here...Craigslist . I think I would have grabbed a truck and got it..
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I best just get off my ass.
 
I'm only an amateur machinist, son of a "Tool and Die" engineer who worked for Bendix Aviation from 1940 to 1982. I wish I had 1/10th of the knowledge that he took to his grave. Well, my son thinks I'm smart anyway.

Right, ok, after drilling some holes in my disk, I found that this steel is not too hard. In fact I drilled 20 holes with the same drill bit. Perhaps the chattering is coming from the extreme hardness of the heat and glazing affect. What if you tried sanding off the hard glazing first, then finishing it with a cutting tool?

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As you can see, I'm in need of some turning. With some advice from you guys, I called the guy who did my valves, and no go. Then I called the local bike shop, and they said that they just replace them. I'm afraid to try Advance or Autozone.
 
A Blanchard is perfected method.

BUT they certainly can be turned on a lathe.

call Chris at Schumann motor works. I believe he will turn them. Great guy. Very reasonable pricing as well.
 
Suppose its time to ask the disc owner (blue 76:cool: ) just how accountable I am for good results :lmao:
The "open" lathe keeps staring at me now.
Was advised to make a twin cutting tool but jeez, thats a whole nutter ball game. Thank You, XSperts for the replies!
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Turning zooky rotors to fit my xs rear caliper I had "no" problem reducing the OD using Carbide. Even with ear muffs it was painful loud squealing. Trying to reduce rotor thickness I had drilled the rotor and then turning it down for thickness was a no go, shock from crossing the drilled holes was just too much.. Yes DIY grinding is prolly the way to go. a flap disc on an angle grinder held against a spinning rotor has stood the test of use on five or more rotors for me. Several others here have also done this, been satisfied with results removing the inner and outer ridge and grooves.
 
Several others here have also done this, been satisfied with results removing the inner and outer ridge and grooves.
All 3 on the SG were done that way. They all still run true with no brake chatter. Count me as satisfied with that method too.
 
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