What is your method for cleaning electrical connections?

[Mailman]

I have yet to really get serious about this, but it is coming. I have tried a few different methods.
I have pulled the connectors apart and sprayed electrical contact cleaner then working fine sandpaper in there to try to shine things up ( very slow and not sure how effective)
After reading online about science being your friend, I tried what a lot of people swear by, using a solution of vinegar and salt and soaking a connector for 5 minutes, then rinsing off with water and then spraying it with contact cleaner. That did ok but again extremely tedious.
I have thought about just replacing the wiring harness, but everything the new harness plugs into is still crusty.
So... I'm sure you old pro's have some Jedi secrets for effortless contact cleaning.
How do you do it?

 

[fredintoon]

Hi Mailman,
there is no easy way. You must use the tedium as a way to achieve Zen.

 

[hogtyed]

Keep the vinegar away. It's an acid and will corrode over time. I'd also be leery of any contact paper. You don't want to remove the tinned surface and expose the copper. The tinning is there to inhibit corrosion. As an electrician, I have a supply of T&B Kopr Shield that I dab on the connections when they get crusty after I hit them with contact cleaner. I also use it on the wires before I crimp the connector on.

Edit to add:
Even an electrical grease would work well after you cleaned them. I have used a tooth brush to scrub them clean if just spraying them doesn't work. Such as: http://www.aflglobal.com/Products/C...ounds/AFL-No-2-Electrical-Joint-Compound.aspx

 

[Mailman]

Hi Mailman,
there is no easy way. You must use the tedium as a way to achieve Zen.

Hahaha! Ahhhh I feel better already! I like that.

Even an electrical grease would work well after you cleaned them. I have used a tooth brush to scrub them clean if just spraying them doesn't work. Such as: http://www.aflglobal.com/Products/C...ounds/AFL-No-2-Electrical-Joint-Compound.aspx

I like that idea with the toothbrush, easier than sandpaper. The blade terminals are easy enough but how do you get the female part of the blade or bullet connectors clean?

 

[mrtwowheel]

People swear by a product called De-Ox-It. I've never used it, it's costly and I'm a cheap ass bastard. I've used a product from Radio Shack, Anti-Corrosive Lubricant Spray 64-057 (640-0057). It has De-Ox-It in it, it is a cleaner, not a lubricant. I've used this to liberally spray Walkmans and other radios and switches with great results, does wonders on switches and tuners that I leave out in the elements. I've never seen the other contact cleaners brighten any connections. I'm so stingy I can do two bikes complete with one can of the Radio Shack stuff. I use tooth brushes, chewed up ends of toothpicks, small brass brushes, Scotch-Brite, Qtips, what ever works. Make the contacts tight. Switches should be disassembled, not just sprayed. Your time doing this is well worth it.

Scott

 

[mrtwowheel]

Di-electric grease........there are two or three views on this.......it is not a conductor. The views are, slather it all over, cover the parts after the connection is made, or, don't use it at all. I don't use it at all, except for moving parts on switches.

Scott

 

[Max Midnight]

Before doing anything I would measure the resistance across the terminals. I suspect that most of the multi-meters we have may not be that accurate for values less than 1 Ohm so that is the absolute maximum but you should see but expect much less, tending towards zero, where there is a good contact.

I would hit the separated connectors with contact cleaner first to remove any oils of grease.
Assuming that the female part of the connector has good pressure onto the male part then the action of making and braking the connector several times would normally be sufficient to clean the areas in contact.
A light wipe with dielectric grease would reduce any future oxidation.
Re-measure the resistance.
The above is sufficient in the majority of cases

The only times I have had to take more drastic action has been when there is burning or heavy verdigris. In such circumstances it is better to cut back or replace the wires, connectors and housing blocks.

 

[Mailman]

From what I've seen all over in my bike, I've come to the conclusion that it was only ridden in fair weather and stored in a dry garage when not in use. It came from Denver.
There is zero rust and no nasty green corrosion. There was a lot of oil vapor on some connections, the rest just look like they haven't been touched for 40 years. Just dirty and dusty.

 

[fredintoon]

Hahaha! Ahhhh I feel better already! I like that.
I like that idea with the toothbrush, easier than sandpaper. The blade terminals are easy enough but how do you get the female part of the blade or bullet connectors clean?

Hi Mailman,
the toothbrush comment reminded me of this:-
I was brushing my teeth this morning and poking out the crevices between them with this thing my dentist gave me.
It looks like the world's smallest bottle brush and it's used in the same manner as a toothpick.
Dunno if you'd have to scrounge one from your dentist or if they are in the toothbrush rack at the supermarket.
But one of them should work to clean out female electrical contacts.

 

[mrtwowheel]

Damn Fred, I've been looking for a brush like that for years, may have to see your dentist.

Scott

 

[Mailman]

Man you guys are full of good ideas! Check this out, from Walmart online $2.56 . Less than a penny a piece!

That's a pretty good deal! Huh Vern?

 

[mrtwowheel]

Great find Mailman, I've never seen those brushes, I'm sure they would work, they're on my list for my dedicated wiring/soldering toolbox. No more chewing on toothpicks!!!!!!!!

Scott

 

[5twins]

I don't think the crimps on these are just plated, I think they're solid brass. I've always cleaned them up with the small wire wheels in a Dremel. I have at them until they shine, then brush a thin coat of dielectric grease on them, inside and out, before reassembly. I mostly use the 428 or 530 wheel, sometimes the 442 cup style. The little 443 brush will insert into female bullets .....

For the multi-connector plugs, you may need to extract each crimp from the plastic housing to give it a proper cleaning. There are little tabs on the side of the crimps that retain them in the housing. You'll need to depress that and they'll slide out .....

Of course, they make special tools for this but you can just use a small screwdriver, pick, or narrow strip of sheet metal. I had to change the plugs around on some XS360/400/500 rectifiers for 650 use. They came with female spades and the 650 requires males. First step was to extract all the crimps from the plastic housing then cut off the female crimps (w/ 1" of wire left on in case I want to re-use them in the future). Then new male spade crimps were added .....

 

[jetmechmarty]

Di-electric grease........there are two or three views on this.......it is not a conductor. The views are, slather it all over, cover the parts after the connection is made, or, don't use it at all. I don't use it at all, except for moving parts on switches.

Scott

I am in the yes to De-Ox-It, and no to dielectric grease camp. Dielectric grease can not improve a connection. I know, some disagree, but I won't be swayed. Keep that stuff away from my bike.

Excuse me while I run out for some brush picks!

 

[650Skull]

On bullet connectors i use my Dremal with a small ball end bit. Once done i use a cotton but dipped in lanolin oil and shove that up the connector and clean out the dirt, then a clean cotton bud to clean out a second and last time. The couplings i dismantle, (as per 5twins), if necessary or fold fine wet and dry emery paper so it is firm enough to slide into the female connector. Male connectors not taken apart i use the same wet and dry, wrap around a thin flat object, (points file is good), and clean each side of each connector probe.

If any doubt, I dismantle the connector and inspect the crimping wires for damage or corrosion

 

[mrtwowheel]

That's a clean female you've got there Skull.

If Dremel had a brass brush the size of that diamond tip........I'd be buying them.

Wonder if Fred's dental brush can be chucked into a Dremel, and would it hold up to do one or two female connectors?????????????

Scott

 

[Mailman]

You guys are good! I feel like such a slacker. I was so hoping you guys were just going to say " Oh cleaning connectors is easy! Just spray it with some stuff and bingo!" I didn't want to really have to work at it! Haha

 

[650Skull]

MTW, maybe some of these new connectors are tinned over, (i don't know), but looking at that female connector there is no removal of any coating and this is an original genuine yamaha loom.

 

[mrtwowheel]

Cleaning, and tightening, ALL of those connections is the best thing you can do for these old STONE AX machines. And, it's not that hard, except for switches and the female connectors, that's the bitch.

Scott

 

[mrtwowheel]

Mailman, just to add more load to your work here.........LIGHT SOCKETS, TAIL LIGHT/TURN SIGNALS.......I've had good experience with the little rebuild kits at Autozone and O'reilly's. They give you the center connections and spring. The ground wire may have to be moved or soldered depending on how the original was oriented.

Hopefully yours may just need a little cleaning. My barn finds have been real rough in these areas.

Scott