What should I be doing?

From the looks of it, the headlight auto-on (and starter) safety relay was removed, so the headlight is probably wired right into the key switch now.
 
Ditto what every one else said. Some of those screw heads are too far gone to salvage. You will want to source some replacements somewhere. Like gggGary said, you should label those fuse holders. The manual diagram will explain the wire color coding. After 40 years of dirt, oil and heat, some of the colors may be hard to tell. Given the state of the tail and signal lights, you may want to remove the lighting fuse, before you try starting it up.
 
Here's an original fuse box. It was strapped on top of the battery .....

O60g2yE.jpg


All those loose wires you have were wrapped into harnesses and routed down along both sides of the battery.

Also note the battery. As I mentioned earlier, the one you have isn't the correct one. The terminals should be reversed. The positive should be on the right and the negative on the left, as seated on the bike.
 
Here's an original fuse box. It was strapped on top of the battery .....

O60g2yE.jpg


All those loose wires you have were wrapped into harnesses and routed down along both sides of the battery.

Also note the battery. As I mentioned earlier, the one you have isn't the correct one. The terminals should be reversed. The positive should be on the right and the negative on the left, as seated on the bike.

I see.. don’t know if it would be easier to invest in another battery or eliminate it all together. It looks pretty intimidating, so I’m leaning towards taking it out entirely. Found three of the yellow things, not four.

- Palace
 
I see.. don’t know if it would be easier to invest in another battery or eliminate it all together.
Eliminating it would involve investing hundreds in a PMA setup. That job is most likely beyond your current abilities.
A new sealed lead acid should be well under a hundred bucks at your local auto parts. That's gonna be your best and cheapest bet.
 
Eliminating it would involve investing hundreds in a PMA setup. That job is most likely beyond your current abilities.
A new sealed lead acid should be well under a hundred bucks at your local auto parts. That's gonna be your best and cheapest bet.

Gotcha. Anything in particular I should look for? Will grab one tomorrow at my local autozone along with my tools.
 
Anything in particular I should look for?
Assuming your battery is the correct one, take it with you and ask for an inexpensive replacement. You'll need to leave it with them for the core charge anyway. Put up a pic here when you remove it and someone will advise if it's the correct one or not.
 
Bit harsh maybe, but............
I think this is a lemon..........might pay to get rid of it, cut any losses and look for something that is more learner/novice friendly. This is going to cost you a lot of money with no guarantees.

Before any money is spent on it it needs a compression test

Frame has been cut so the taillight needs to be completely rethought out.

The brackets to hold the seat high enough so the taillight doesn't get squashed means the bike is dangerous to ride and $$$$$

Get rid of it

I know what you mean and I know you mean well when you say it, but I’m all in man. In hindsight I could have gotten a Honda Spree or something. It was dumb to just go and buy a classic bike with no experience but I don’t regret it at all. Got nothing else to spend time and money on, already signed up for my safety program course which will help me get my endorsement. And I’m still doin’ my homework dude. Haha. Yeah she’s got her issues, but owning her is still fun to me. Can’t wait to find out what year the engine really is and to throw a new battery in.

- Palace
 
Bit harsh maybe, but............
I think this is a lemon..........might pay to get rid of it, cut any losses and look for something that is more learner/novice friendly. This is going to cost you a lot of money with no guarantees.

Before any money is spent on it it needs a compression test

Frame has been cut so the taillight needs to be completely rethought out.

The brackets to hold the seat high enough so the taillight doesn't get squashed means the bike is dangerous to ride and $$$$$

Get rid of it
You might well be right. It’s a lot for a novice, but with our help he may succeed.
 
Bit harsh maybe, but............
I think this is a lemon..........might pay to get rid of it, cut any losses and look for something that is more learner/novice friendly. This is going to cost you a lot of money with no guarantees.

Before any money is spent on it it needs a compression test

Frame has been cut so the taillight needs to be completely rethought out.

The brackets to hold the seat high enough so the taillight doesn't get squashed means the bike is dangerous to ride and $$$$$

Get rid of it

Mr Skull
I think you deserve credits for this Telling things in plain English.
It might be things no one wants to hear but it is an experienced well informed position.
The sooner the better that possibility is up the better.
Might even have the possibility to return it getting money back
It might be right it depends on determination and ambitions time.

Personally I find it interesting
I don't think I have ever met anyone that don't knows why the right handle can twist
I believed he joked with us.
Having said that ...the interesting part is can we get it running and as you say can anyone get it running
It is always a difficult part when to throw in the towel . Myself not good at it ..

As I said before keep it simple would be my recommendation. And ask a lot before wrench away
I have seen better looking bikes with people working with metal work as a profession
Not getting them to run.

As for battery I believe $ 100 is high --Around half of that should be possible
If you go to a major auto parts dealer that has been in
business a while and will keep on having customers I do believe they are found cheaper.
Not the best quality but usable.

Compression test ..Cant see any reason not doing it ...

I think you are most likely right Mr Skull ..but who listen to others .. taking advice as said before Its a personal decision.
See what happens
 
I know what you mean and I know you mean well when you say it, but I’m all in man. In hindsight I could have gotten a Honda Spree or something. It was dumb to just go and buy a classic bike with no experience but I don’t regret it at all. Got nothing else to spend time and money on, already signed up for my safety program course which will help me get my endorsement. And I’m still doin’ my homework dude. Haha. Yeah she’s got her issues, but owning her is still fun to me. Can’t wait to find out what year the engine really is and to throw a new battery in.

- Palace
Classic bikes are generally easier to understand, no computers for starters.
You will learn a lot of basic mechanics doing this XS650; And the difficult stuff is supported here. Modern bikes cost ££££ to get a dealer to plug in, then they say ‘new parts mate £££££’ and he’s not even your mate! Bastards!! If it all becomes to much hard work or money you can just sell it. I would like you to succeed. :)
 
I'v said my piece and given information, (links to a tutorial), required and where the work needs to be started from twice..

I'll be watching the progress.

I did some stuff! finally got the carbs off, hopefully I did it right. Boiling the parts now. Screws are sitting in vinegar. Will replace ‘em one by one soon. Battery’s been removed as well, but I didn’t order a replacement yet. Seat’s trashed, going to find a cool new one soon.

Don’t really know what to do with these wires and rusty old battery box. It looks messy. My new goal right now is to just clean her up and make her a little smaller(?). After I put the carbs back, I’ll get a new battery and try compression. Still love the way she looks but researching less bulky parts. Still can’t get that stripped bolt out but I’ll keep trying. It was fun as hell to unscrew her, but I know I have my work cut out for me putting everything back together. Will keep you guys posted.

- Palace
 

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Not always a wise move to take a bike apart without a plan of what you intend to do, look at or fix. But No Harm Done - with the help on offer from the folks hereabouts you will be able to get her back together and running.

Getting that FUBAR screw out is still a worthwhile goal, to see what lurks under the advance cover.

Cleaning the bike up, getting it back in one piece and running are very good objectives. Taking things off to make the bike smaller and further customisation probably best left until after you have a bike you can ride IMHO.

Good luck!
 
OK
a ) If you got the carburetors off ..please consider take them to someone that does it for you
b ) If you chose not to do that do the readup
c ) So to service the carburetors it might be necessary to separate them ..from the angle bar
to do that you need the JIS Screwdriver bit and some experience using a ratchet or a Impact screwdriver
If you damage those screws holding the carburetors it is a big problem
That can lead to a)
Those are locked with a chemical and I have not been able to loosen them on 2 sets
please google and ask

May I suggest that you remove the float bowls and post pictures of what you find inside
 
I'm not sure if you need to take the carbs off the angle bar to do most of what you need to do?

I'm sure others will chip in . . .
 
I'm not sure if you need to take the carbs off the angle bar to do most of what you need to do?

I'm sure others will chip in . . .

You are probably right reason for me doing it was the T joint was leaking and cracked on both sets
If I remember correctly ... I don't usually do things unless necessary.
 
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