Whats the best company to buy Friction plates from

Vonturd

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I need to replace the friction plates in my 1980 xs650, does anyone have suggestions which company I should go with? I would like to get the best quality parts.
And what type of grease would you recommend?
 
I used Barnett clutch plates, new heavy springs and my original steel plates.

No hint of grabbing or slippage.
 
As far as grease types, I use several. My general purpose stuff for wheel bearings and pivoting parts is Kendall Super Blu .....

http://www.autoparts2020.com/rsdev/part_detail.jsp?PART_HDR_ID=29102

For areas like drum brake pivots and places I want something thicker (steering head bearings), I use Sta-Lube Premium Red grease .....

http://www.harborfreight.com/14-oz-sta-plex-extreme-pressure-premium-red-grease-40710.html

3M recommends this for brake pivots and it's nice to be able to grab a tube right at my local HF store.

For plastic and plastic to metal greasing, like the throttle tube on the handlebars, I use white lithium grease.
 
vesrahs, with whatever steels from mikes. works. soak in preferred engine oil overnight before install. Don't ask wich oil to use.lol
 
Basically stock 82 free flow mufflers rejetted, about 40 miles on valvoline 10-40 ATV oil, unknown oil before that. 15K miles, clutch is slipping under power, about 4K and up, fairly heavy throttle, what has worked at (OK I'm a cheap ass) minimum expense?
So full boat is new Barnett friction plates, heavy (how heavy?) springs, What if I pull the plates and they aren't worn down? Clean em, scuff em, reassemble with heavier springs? Just looking for what has worked for youse guys.
 
Note; I think I know how to set the adjuster and cable free play.
Reset those today to be sure, still slipping. Ithink I'm with 2-8 on glazed plates.
 
The heavy duty springs should be all you need if the plates aren't worn too thin. Every Jap wet clutch bike I ever owned needed them. Replacement springs is just something I do to every one I get now.
 
Thanks all!
I have some EBC springs on the way $11 shipped, can't beat that. I'll pull it and report back how it goes when the springs get here.
More suggestions on getting the plates ready to sand? I'm thinking a short soak in mineral spirits then air dry a time or 3.
 
More suggestions on getting the plates ready to sand? I'm thinking a short soak in mineral spirits then air dry a time or 3.

Best remover of oil I know of is trichlor. After cleaning, see if you can make a fingernail impression in the clutch material. If the plates are normal organic composition, they won't take a fingernail impression if they're burnt.

EDIT: Use the pointed tip of a nail or scribe instead. Not everyone has rock-hard fingernails...
 
If you're going to sand the friction plates, be careful not to take too much off. There's only a .3mm (.012") difference between new (3mm thick) and worn (2.7mm thick). I would measure them before and after the sanding. Personally, I've never sanded any frictions. I do clean up the steels with a Scotchbrite pad and knock the sharp edges off the teeth with a wire wheel.

The eBay clutch I'm running now did slip a little bit at first but got better with time. I think maybe the P.O. had the wrong kind of oil in there (light car oil with the friction modifiers) and it took some time to work that stuff out of the plates.
 
Don't use the crap from Mikes. There is so much fiber off the plates in the oil that the clutch will never fully disengage. Of course it doesn't help that its bored and heavily ported.
 
I'm with 5twins on the stronger springs, try them first. With fresh oil that is wet clutch rated.
I used 150 grit sand paper to remove any discoloration from the steels and break the sharp edges. The rougher surfaces help the grip.
Leo
 
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