Wheel bearings, tried everything..

[apox]

So I can't seem to get any of the wheel bearings to even budge, I bought a wheel bearing puller that can't do it, i bought some long punches that just slip off the bearing lip with a tiny tap... My bearing edges are all rounded or angled so literally nothing will grab or stay on them... What now?? Oh and I've heated up the hub too with the girlfriends hair dryer lol...

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Grind the end of the long punch flat, with non-rounded corners. Hold angling leveraging pressure on the punch so it won't slip off the opposite bearing's inner race. One good smack, then again 180° from there. Repeat. Eventually, the bearing should move enuff so that the inner spacer will move more out of the way, giving you better access to the inner race. Continue the alternating 'smacking' until the bearing comes out...

 

[apox]

I really really don't understand how people on here describe this edge as being so easy to get grip on, I've ground a punch flat, angled, sharp, you name it and it just slips off. It's just not going to grab an angle that is like 45 degrees... I really don't get it. Even when I'm sliding the punch down its like this tiny tiny feeling that it's rested possibly on something but it just bumps off with a hard or soft hit even if I'm reefing on the punch against one side to try to keep it on this lip...

 

[apox]

www.vid.me/gvpM

There is a short video of the punch sliding past the edge.. It won't catch it. Like I said I tried lots of different cuts on the punch, in that video its not the best.

 

[TwoManyXS1Bs]

Yeah, that inner spacer is blocking access to the inner race.
2 next level methods:

- Take a long pipe, almost axle diameter, put it in there almost to the race edge, and smack it to the side, trying to lever the spacer over a bit. If it moves, repeat the above procedure.

- If that doesn't get it, slide that same pipe through the bearing and tack weld the inner race to the pipe. Then, smack it outta there...

 

[hardrock785]

what 2many said it can be a shit show but you will geter.gotta knock that spacer outta the way. seems to me i use a large flat screw driver with the end bent over.

 

[fredintoon]

So I can't seem to get any of the wheel bearings to even budge, I bought a wheel bearing puller that can't do it, i bought some long punches that just slip off the bearing lip with a tiny tap... My bearing edges are all rounded or angled so literally nothing will grab or stay on them... What now?? Oh and I've heated up the hub too with the girlfriends hair dryer lol...

Hi apox,
the GF's hairdryer just ain't got it.
A hot air paint stripping blowgun just might push enough heat though.
I wonder if putting as big a concrete expansion bolt as will fit into the bearing, reefing it up real hard, taking your BFH and a 1/2" diameter drift and getting medieval on the expansion bolt's tail might shift it?

 

[apox]

Funny you mention that, I just watched some videos on those expansion bolts, seems to work pretty good. I am going to pick one up tomorrow and return this useless bearing puller from princess auto. Last resort as I don't have a welder. Will report tomorrow

 

[fredintoon]

Funny you mention that, I just watched some videos on those expansion bolts, seems to work pretty good. I am going to pick one up tomorrow and return this useless bearing puller from princess auto. Last resort as I don't have a welder. Will report tomorrow

Hi apox,
a welder ain't the best way to remove a bearing, I meant one of these:-
https://www.lowes.ca/paint/paint-tools-accessories/heat-guns/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=
OK, that link needs help, when it opens type in "heat guns" in the search window.
Although an expansion bolt is not exactly the last resort.
You don't want to re-use those bearings, right?
Pry off whatever seal or shield is on the bearing so you can see the bearing's ball cage.
Dremel the cage's rivets off so the cage can be pulled off.
Scoot the balls all around to one side.
Snap the bearing's inner race to the other side and remove it, along with the loose balls.
Now you can remove the bearing spacer tube and drive the other bearing out.

 

[53xs650]

One bearing is a larger bore and has reducing bushing, Use a rod slightly smaller than bushing and knock out the inner sleeve and bearing together. The drives everything out straight.

 

[fredintoon]

Hi 53xs650,
yeah, but it don't work on the front wheel because only the rear wheel is made like that.
on a similar note, some listers have posted they didn't know the rear race sleeve was a separate part, thrown the old bearing away with the sleeve still pressed into it and wondered why the new bearing didn't fit right. Or worse, didn't notice the bad fit-up and wondered why their replacements didn't last very long.

 

[53xs650]

I didnt see where the OP said which wheel he was working ,So I thought he might not know about the sleeve in bearing.

 

[fredintoon]

Hi 53xs650,
not nocking your post because yeah, the OP didn't say.
I was locked into thinking front wheel because that's the wheel I last worked on.
And of course, many a poor beggar has tossed that rear bearing sleeve thinking it was part of the bearing.

 

[apox]

Working on all wheel bearings, starting on the rears at the moment. And the welder comment was from another post saying to weld the race to a pipe to knock it out. We're on the same page about the heat gun, I'll pick one up (good to have one anyway). I did manage to shift the spacer to the side a bit but still couldn't grip it with any punch I've got so I think tonight I I'll try to expansion bolt trick. The videos make it look so easy. I'm afraid of deconstructing the bearings while installed so that I think will be the last last resort.

Thanks for all the advice thus far!

Also I do know about that collar/spacer that people have discarded, read that in some other posts. I'll find it.

 

[retiredgentleman]

I don't understand why many lads want to replace the wheel bearings on these bikes. The stock bearings are high quality and will last 40 or 50 years at least. Most of these bikes have less than 30,000 kms on them...................that amounts to very little wear for the bearings.

The only reason to replace them would be if they have been exposed to water and rust is visible in the bearing, or if you can hear grinding coming from the bearing.

Seems like a lot of aggravation for no reason??

 

[5twins]

The video appears to show a rear wheel. Driving that top hat shaped spacer in the left bearing into the hub is the easiest way to remove the first (right side) rear wheel bearing. I use a suitably sized socket. Then the remaining bearing is simple using a punch because everything is out of the way.

Early wheels had a small hole through the side of that long center spacer to aid in bearing removal. You need to fab up a little bent rod tool but it makes removal pretty easy .....

If you find no hole through the side of your spacer, I recommend adding one once you have things apart for use in the future.

 

[fredintoon]

- - - I'm afraid of deconstructing the bearings while installed so that I think will be the last last resort. - - -

Hi apox,
deconstructing a bearing is OK so long as you get all the bits out.
Once you've removed a bearing that's held on it's outer race by pressing or pounding on it's inner race (or forced a bearing off a shaft by pressing or pounding on it's outer race) it's f*cked anyway.
Unless I'm replacing a bearing I re-pack it while it's in place.

 

[apox]

I don't understand why many lads want to replace the wheel bearings on these bikes. The stock bearings are high quality and will last 40 or 50 years at least. Most of these bikes have less than 30,000 kms on them...................that amounts to very little wear for the bearings.

The only reason to replace them would be if they have been exposed to water and rust is visible in the bearing, or if you can hear grinding coming from the bearing.

Seems like a lot of aggravation for no reason??

My rears barely turn and look horrible, plus I don't have a clue what's inside, I traded for these wheels already off bike, maybe there are things missing or broken inside. If I'm going to eventually ride this bike I want to make sure it's in good working order.

 

[5twins]

That center spacer is trapped between the bearing but it's not in there super tight. You should be able to pry it to the side a little to expose more of the inner race on the far side bearing. Then you should be able to get a punch on it no problem. If you plan on replacing the bearings anyway, get a socket that just fits on the inner race of one and give it a couple good hits. That should nudge the other bearing out a little and allow that center spacer to slide over easily.

 

[vr3506]

It is so easy,

Remove the seal part, i mean the one that holds the grease inside the bearing
Than destroy the cage that holds the balls
Now move all the balls against each other and remove the inner bearing part
Now you can remove the opposit side bearing and spacer
Put the baals back in the destroyed bearing (use some grease) and put in the inner ring again, now spread the balls and remove this bearing from the other side on.