Wheel chock question?

[Wingedwheel]

Hey guys,
Back after an absence. I was down in KY for the last 7 months on a work assignment and kinda let myself get away from daily routines(like reading and posting here). Fortunately I was able to take my XS and my HD down with me for a few months and experienced some amazing roads and places so not a total loss. One thing I did while I was there was pick up a new trailer to carry my bikes with me for future adventures. I had an open trailer that I used for transport and it was set up for motorcycles but I wanted an enclosed trailer so I bought this beauty.

My question about wheel chocks is I want to set this up for multiple bikes but I don't want to lose floor space by permanently mounting chocks. I've never had a problem with bikes shifting as long as they were tied down properly and I was thinking about just using non-mounted wheel chocks like one would use in the garage. I'm thinking that as long as they were strapped side to side as well they wouldn't slide? just looking for some feedback and opinions. Possibly something like these...

 

[Royboy]

I've used the Pingle mounts for years. Easy to use and dismountable when not in use. I can recommend them highly. http://www.pingelonline.com/prodcat/wheel-chocks.asp
They provide specific instructions for mounting and tie down.

roy

 

[timbeck]

Two 16in pieces of 2x4 layed on the flat next to the front wheel . Two 4in drywall screws angled in on each wheel . Three or four minutes and you can install and remove. Basically free. And Bob's your uncle..........
tim

 

[Wingedwheel]

Thanks Roy I looked at them and I'm trying to stay as flush as possible so that's going in the right direction. Timbeck, that would work but after installing and removing them several times I'd have rough floor from all the holes. Who the heck is uncle Bob?

 

[timbeck]

Old English saying, ask Peanut from the UK.. lol
tim

 

[Wingedwheel]

OK Tim, I looked it up and you're right......lol

 

[Brassneck]

What you show there in the first pic will work without any issues if you have good downward tie-downs. I have two race bikes I take to races in my trailer (which looks similar to yours) and I use something very similar for transport and pit set-up. I got mine from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XNSDNM8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

With two tie downs at the front and two at the rear wheels (I'm using an e-track from Harbor Freight running down each side of the bikes on the floor but solid Tie-Down rings could work too), it's absolutely solid. The downward force of the tie downs is enough to keep the bike in-place, and the wheel chock simply keeps the bike from rolling forward/back, as well as keeps the bike upright to help with the tie-down attachments--and then the tie-downs keeps the bike upright during travel. I've been using this for a couple years without any issue and take my bikes all over the place to race, over seriously rough roads sometimes and have had no issues. Plus, when you get to your pits, it's so easy to use them instead of a rear stand.

The front tie-downs are about 6"-12" forward of the front forks and about a 12"-18" on each side of the front wheel. The rear tie-downs are about the same distance, except they are placed behind the rear axle. (This is just a rough estimate as I move the tie-down points for various other uses...hence the e-track benefits)

With this set-up, you can then remove the chocks without any loss in floor space as they are just resting on the floor (I put a paint mark where they go so I am not guessing each time I go to put them back in the trailer) . One modification I may do this winter is add 1/4" plywood between the e-tracks to make the floor flush with the e-tracks (they sit about 1/4" above the floor). But that's only if I get motivated enough. Ha ha.

Oh, and to make your life even easier, I recommend these tie-down straps...they are the best I have found, so easy and absolutely worth the money:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009XIP942/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm going to a race this weekend and will be loading up my trailer on thur or fri this week...I could take a pic or two if you need it, but it's pretty simple to figure out I think.

Good luck.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Thanks Brassneck. I've got tie-down rings in the floor already but need to add a couple more for extra machines. I've always found if I compress the front forks enough the bikes can't move but I just wanted some feedback. I also double tie the front in case a strap has a problem. Single straps on each side makes me a little nervous when I'm hauling a 700-800 lb bike. I also don't use cheap straps as I've had a ratchet mechanism fail before.

 

[fredintoon]

- - - Timbeck, that would work but after installing and removing them several times I'd have rough floor from all the holes. Who the heck is uncle Bob?

Hi Wingedwheel,
make nutplates for the wingbolts which will hold the wheel clamps in place.
A 3/8" nut welded to a square of 11gage sheetmetal would make a nice permanent flushmount.
Nut is pocketed into the trailer floor.
7/16 hole in the sheetmetal lets the wingbolt through to engage the nut.
4 countersunk holes in the sheetmetal's corners let woodscrews hold the plate down.
And Robert is your Mother's Brother.

 

[Wingedwheel]

Fred, that's a really good suggestion. Me being a cheapass, make something work kinda guy that makes perfect sense. I always have some kinda material laying around that I can make things with. Some carriage bolts through a piece of plate with threaded holes in it will do the trick! I'll just have to fab a hold down to work with whatever chock I decide to use. For that matter the bolt down chock from HF should work. I'll just match the holes, thread them and removal will be easy.

 

[Wingedwheel]

OK so I took all the ideas, looked at my available material and came up with a design. I put the bikes in the trailer and figured out about where they needed to go. Then took my MC jack and positioned them with the chocks. I chose the ones from HF because I liked that I can change the position of the front to accommodate my different bikes.I then marked the floor with a pencil and rolled the machines back out of the way. I had some 5/16 bar stock that I mounted to the floor with carriage bolts which is fairly flush.

Then I drilled holes for the bolts to hold the stands down. I used 7/16 carriage bolts through the floor with fender washers underneath and drilled and tapped the bar for a 3/8-16x3/4 bolt.

this allows me to remove the stands when I want to use the trailer for something different with quick mount/un-mount.

I think it came out pretty sweet and I got the results I was looking for. thanks to all the guys that posted suggestions.

I staggered the mounts to allow easy access through the side door which also left me ample storage front and back.

 

[Brassneck]

Looks good. Nice job.