Good one, DE. It'll prevent S.B.O.M.N. (snorting beer out my nose)...
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When the world comes to it's senses and makes me Emperor...
- Thread starter Downeaster
- Start date
Agree on all counts. For some reason, a good outburst of invective helps one feel better - even if the fastener doesn’t appear to be listening. Also - I’m the same about the storm passing quickly. No point in staying mad - but also no point in bottling up all that energy.
One of the funniest things I’ve gotten out of this Forum was the priority/protocol for loosening stuck fasteners:
One of the funniest things I’ve gotten out of this Forum was the priority/protocol for loosening stuck fasteners:
- Tools
- Chemicals
- Profanity
- Heat
- Violence
Hi Pete,
we'd not been married long when I was out in the carport having a heated discussion with my elderly snowblower about it's reluctance to start.
After my reasoning prevailed and I'd cleared the driveway I went into the house for a coffee break to find my wife cringing in fear of my anger.
I am not angry, why would you think so?
Because of all that yelling and cussing.
I had to explain, remember that refinery flare stack with the big flame coming out of it?
The flame is there to safely burn off all the dangerous fumes that would otherwise blow up the plant.
The yelling and cussing is my own personal version of that flame, it burns off the rage so I don't bring it into the house.
Dammit geedubya, you owe me half a cup of coffee, a keyboard and a monitor!
I'ma steal that and we'll call it even tho...
DE,
You know you should not Drink & Hard Drive!!
ZACKLEY Frederick!
...and yes GW, it did make me snort.
Darn that DE - about every third post of his is a beer/coffee out of the nose, snort-producer.
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And to add to this some very good advice I got from a fellow worker, shop welder, while struggling to remove a broken off rusted bolt in a stone crusher. He said the most important thing to remember is that you are smarter than that rusted bolt, or at least you should be!
Just a couple weeks ago I was recalling that while trying to remove a rusted set screw from a coupler on a propeller-shaft that went to an antique boat motor from back in the 1910's.
Not sure if it was original as it was a 1/4 inch Allen type set screw but I know for a fact that motor had not been in a boat for over sixty years! Three out of the four set screws came out somewhat easy after and over night soak in Phosphoric acid(AKA Milkstone remover).
Last one fought me all the way to the point of me trying to drill it out and breaking off a drill bit in it. Actually managed to persuade the broken drill to come out and second drill bit and lots of penetrating fluid, heat from propane torch and persuasion from small hammer and punch got it to move and then easy-out(no such thing as easy about them)finally got it out!
In picture below you can still see it in the coupler:
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Yeah....that would warrant a Mk. 5 temper-tantrum around here I'd say...
Ken,
yes you are smarter than a stuck bolt, but are you more stubborn, eh?
Downeaster,
or more stubborn than a snapped-off easyout?
I swear those bastard things are designed to snap off rather than slip round
and they are so effin' hard that the only way to shift them is with a diamond bit
or an electric discharge machine.
yes you are smarter than a stuck bolt, but are you more stubborn, eh?
Downeaster,
or more stubborn than a snapped-off easyout?
I swear those bastard things are designed to snap off rather than slip round
and they are so effin' hard that the only way to shift them is with a diamond bit
or an electric discharge machine.
Not having Downeaster's ambition I don't want to be the Emperor of Earth.
I'll settle for being Crown Prince of Canada.
And my first edict will be to force billfold manufacturers to make billfold credit/debit card pockets 3mm bigger all round
so I don't have to fight to get the bastards out and in my billfold at supermarket cashouts.
I'll settle for being Crown Prince of Canada.
And my first edict will be to force billfold manufacturers to make billfold credit/debit card pockets 3mm bigger all round
so I don't have to fight to get the bastards out and in my billfold at supermarket cashouts.
AMEN Fred!
Easy outs are designed by the devil sold in the guise of making a difficult job easy but in reality (after the mandatory snapping) make the difficult job even harder.
DE when you are Emperor of Earth ban these things to protect the innocent.
DE when you are Emperor of Earth ban these things to protect the innocent.
I've used easy outs I don't know, 30 times? yes busted a few, One FT500 head was the worst, they are notorious for a bolt next to the exhaust port. .... That was the only time in my long career I took a part to be EDM'd But overall It's not the tool so much as the operator.
My short list.
#1 don't break bolts!
Use lube
Use shock
Go BOTH directions as often as needed when that ut oh, metal binding feeling happens, more lube!
STOP and THINK before going gonzo.
Heat.
Is there another way?
Do I REALLY need to do this? Was just working on a chain saw, wanted to look at the piston, so was removing the muffler, one bolt deep in wasn't releasing even with the impact wrench. Stopped, thought. I have good compression, saw runs good, do I really NEED to see that piston? Nope buttoned it back up.
OK the bolt is stuck. Can I drill/grind off the head to remove the part? Then I'll have good access to the problem. Heat, side shocking, welding are all better options with access.
Alright the bolt snapped, schmidt! Can I weld a nut on the remains? This is a 2fer the nut closer to the threads improves the odds, the heat from welding often breaks the corrosion bonds.
Can I dremel a screwdriver slot in the bolt stub? Often the bolt breaking has loosened the thread and the remains are easy to remove.
No can do, we gotta drill, LH drill bits! and CENTER CENTER CENTER the drilled hole in the bolt.
Grind the bolt stub flat, center punch lightly, check for center, you can move the center mark by angling the punch using repeated light blows till the mark is where it should be.
Use the removed part and a bushing over the drill bit to keep the bit straight and centered. GO big, work your way up the LH drill bit sizes before using the easy out. Way more often than not, the LH drill bit brings the bolt remains out before the easy out is needed.
This is it, I've drilled to near the thread ID, the bolt hasn't moved. LOOK at your easy out size. How much torque can that little piece of hard steel take? Twist it in, tap with a hammer to set. repeat. remember how small the easy out is, stop twisting BEFORE you snap it off. Not working? Stop! You have a centered hole, drill to the tap size, get the tap, remove the spirals of bolt thread that remain. Stop often blow out the swarf while tapping.
At each step think about the problem you will have if you fuggle the casting, slow down think it almost always is easier to get the right tools, take your time, than rebuilding a big $$$ aluminum casting.
Other options.
Is the bolt REALLY needed? can I just say eh it'll work without it. Can I tap inside the bolt remains and use a smaller bolt to do the job? Hey it's just creating a gasket seal how big does it NEED to be?
There, that's my morning diatribe. Carry on.
Gotta get downstairs the "milwaukee iron" easy wake up HAH! is seriously scattered about on the lift, I had to replace the shift shaft
. An eff'n PO used the wrong shift lever and rounded the splines off the shaft, grr.
My short list.
#1 don't break bolts!
Use lube
Use shock
Go BOTH directions as often as needed when that ut oh, metal binding feeling happens, more lube!
STOP and THINK before going gonzo.
Heat.
Is there another way?
Do I REALLY need to do this? Was just working on a chain saw, wanted to look at the piston, so was removing the muffler, one bolt deep in wasn't releasing even with the impact wrench. Stopped, thought. I have good compression, saw runs good, do I really NEED to see that piston? Nope buttoned it back up.
OK the bolt is stuck. Can I drill/grind off the head to remove the part? Then I'll have good access to the problem. Heat, side shocking, welding are all better options with access.
Alright the bolt snapped, schmidt! Can I weld a nut on the remains? This is a 2fer the nut closer to the threads improves the odds, the heat from welding often breaks the corrosion bonds.
Can I dremel a screwdriver slot in the bolt stub? Often the bolt breaking has loosened the thread and the remains are easy to remove.
No can do, we gotta drill, LH drill bits! and CENTER CENTER CENTER the drilled hole in the bolt.
Grind the bolt stub flat, center punch lightly, check for center, you can move the center mark by angling the punch using repeated light blows till the mark is where it should be.
Use the removed part and a bushing over the drill bit to keep the bit straight and centered. GO big, work your way up the LH drill bit sizes before using the easy out. Way more often than not, the LH drill bit brings the bolt remains out before the easy out is needed.
This is it, I've drilled to near the thread ID, the bolt hasn't moved. LOOK at your easy out size. How much torque can that little piece of hard steel take? Twist it in, tap with a hammer to set. repeat. remember how small the easy out is, stop twisting BEFORE you snap it off. Not working? Stop! You have a centered hole, drill to the tap size, get the tap, remove the spirals of bolt thread that remain. Stop often blow out the swarf while tapping.
At each step think about the problem you will have if you fuggle the casting, slow down think it almost always is easier to get the right tools, take your time, than rebuilding a big $$$ aluminum casting.
Other options.
Is the bolt REALLY needed? can I just say eh it'll work without it. Can I tap inside the bolt remains and use a smaller bolt to do the job? Hey it's just creating a gasket seal how big does it NEED to be?
There, that's my morning diatribe. Carry on.
Gotta get downstairs the "milwaukee iron" easy wake up HAH! is seriously scattered about on the lift, I had to replace the shift shaft
. An eff'n PO used the wrong shift lever and rounded the splines off the shaft, grr.
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Eff'n PO's, eh?
Another class of folks that should be glad I'm not Emperor...
Another class of folks that should be glad I'm not Emperor...
- - - Gotta get downstairs the "milwaukee iron" easy wake up HAH! is seriously scattered about on the lift, I had to replace the shift shaft
Hi Gary,
Mr. Bodger has a fix for that:-
The shaft and lever are already scrap so there's nothin' to lose, right?
Put the lever on the shaft at the position it needs to be to work good.
Drill a 1/8" hole along the spline 1/2 in the shaft & 1/2 in the lever.
Pound a 1/8" roll pin into the hole.
My Heritage Special been shifting like that for a decade.
Get JimD or Mailman to buff up those pipes for ya while yer at it...
This is how I polish exhaust pipes...
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