Winter project: upgrading time! (R6 forks and more...)

O M G I found it!

It's the Carmo ignition box that somehow gets messed with when it's charging.

I just hooked up the Gonzo. First without the R/R disconnected. Started fine and ran fine!

Than hooked up the R/R: starts and runs fine ! Fuck yes.

I'm gonna put the wiring in, semi decent for testing. And will call Carmo to run this through them.

Still thinking about a new stator just to get everything new.

IMG_20210611_130153266_HDR.jpg


 
Just called Carmo about the thing I found. They can't help. All they said was that this issue doesn't sound familiar and their products was tested/developed for and 100% stock bike. Since my bike ain't that, they can't help.

They did add to say that their ignition is digital and therefore more sensitive for influences.

Even though I'm happy with the Gonzo box working. Still thinking about that year I ran this Carmo ignition without any problems....
 
Perhaps something as simple as putting a diode across the +ve power lead to earth may get the Carmo running. This will filter out the negative voltage spikes:

OIP.yCREj8YyIts_7JRZKsmnNAAAAA

Just wire it in the none conductive mode i.e. cathode connected to the +ve Red wire and the anode connected to ground. Perhaps try initially to connect the cathode close to the Carmo power lead. I simple 1A diode of the 1N4001 will be sufficient.
 
Paul Sutton said:
Perhaps something as simple as putting a diode across the +ve power lead to earth may get the Carmo running. This will filter out the negative voltage spikes:

OIP.yCREj8YyIts_7JRZKsmnNAAAAA

Just wire it in the none conductive mode i.e. cathode connected to the +ve Red wire and the anode connected to ground. Perhaps try initially to connect the cathode close to the Carmo power lead. I simple 1A diode of the 1N4001 will be sufficient.
Click to expand...
I know very little about diodes but will look into this!
 
Jim said:
OK, for starters, the stator has a lip or shoulder with the inner half of it being raised about 1.29mm higher than the outer half. All measurement were taken here in the raised inner half.

View attachment 193000

The mount tabs on the pickup are offset to accommodate this shoulder. It was also measured on the raised inner tab.

View attachment 193001

So, from the stator to the face of the rotor is 10.17mm (.401")

View attachment 193002 View attachment 193003

From the face of the pickup to right next to the hole in the inner (raised) tab is 7.89mm (.310")

View attachment 193004 View attachment 193005

So, the difference is 2.28mm (.091"). That's our gap.
I measured stator to rotor face directly off the SG which is a known good runner using the stock TCI and Gonzo box. Not wanting to take the pickup off, I measured off a spare and not the SG pickup. I suspect they'll all be close to the same.
Click to expand...

Since I had everything off, I thought I'd measure this just to sign it off:

Same method used, distance between TCI pickup face and rotor: 2,15mm
 
Bjorn.... proud member of the bulldog club.:D Never let go of that bone!!!
On my bike, I'm not getting the full 25° advance out of the GN250 box. So I filed a slot in my pickup so I could adjust the timing. Where I finally ended up was about 18° at idle and about 35° at full advance. That seems to be perfect for my bike. Of course things cascade from there..... I also had to go up one size on the pilot jets to fix a (very minor) stumble off idle and some decel popping. Since then, it's worked perfectly. You might want to also consider filing a slot in the left cover so that you can play with timing without having to remove it.


notch.jpg


notch3.jpg
 
Paul Sutton said:
Perhaps something as simple as putting a diode across the +ve power lead to earth may get the Carmo running. This will filter out the negative voltage spikes:

OIP.yCREj8YyIts_7JRZKsmnNAAAAA

Just wire it in the none conductive mode i.e. cathode connected to the +ve Red wire and the anode connected to ground. Perhaps try initially to connect the cathode close to the Carmo power lead. I simple 1A diode of the 1N4001 will be sufficient.
Click to expand...
What about ferrite chokes on pos. and neg. wires to the Charmo box and coils?
 
Although time will be somewhat more limited from now on, because I'm starting at my new job next week. I still plan on working on the bike. I still have this itch.

Anyway I just went to a friend for a BBQ, took the bike for some town riding and took a D tour home. Going home I did notice it's starts sputtering at 4k rpm. Could that have something to do with the Gonzo timing?

This is also something I experienced last year with all the troubles to it gave me a bad feeling haha.

Edit: I did check the timing and since I learned here how to hook it up:laugh2: I saw that idle was in the fork mark, and revving it moved the mark CW for about 2cm. Did not see any reference on the case to aim for.
 
Btw I'm still looking into theories behind grounding. One question I can't find the answer to is: where was the original factory central ground point on the XS?

I can't find any pictures of this. If anyone could shoot me a picture, would be greatly appreciated!
 
There is a short battery to frame ground strap that attaches right behind the battery.
The harness ground connection is at the top engine mount.
It's not really a central point ground system as built?
Other components are grounded via the harness, the frame or engine cases.
there is a ground jumper from condenser plate to top engine mount bolt.
turn signal stalks,
the handle bar (method varied through the years)
 
Hmm I see, weird that in a lot of their original diagrams Yamaha routed everything to one ground lug.

So I just wanted to check that ignition. And stationary is runs on the left side of the "fork" symbol on the stator plate. Revving it, the mark rotates CW to about that drain opening Jim pointed at. But after around 4k de mark bouces left and right and the bike sputters....
 
One other thing I noticed is that the low beam is back feeding the hi beam indicator light. This light up to around 50% with the low beams on.

Here is my theory about the current situation. I think there is still a fundamental problem somewhere. The Gonzo box is less sensitive their for not showing it below 4k. Above this it does show and starts to misfire
 

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