Wiring a Domino Run/Stop Switch

Paul75

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Just a bit of help with wiring this in please......so I have a Domino run/stop switch.....
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These are the wires running from it.......

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These are the wires from my loom......

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Now I know by examining the switch that the 6 Domino wires are as follows:

RUN/STOP BUTTONS
2 x BLUE
1 X YELLOW/BLACK
1 X BLACK

STARTER BUTTON
1 X WHITE/BLACK
1 X ORANGE

Now on the loom there is just 2 x red/white wires and 1 x blue/white wire.....Can anyone give me a heads up as to where I should be wiring this in please?
 

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From the harness the 2 red/white wires go to the Kill switch. These R/W wires are the ignition power wires and when they are switched together the ignition gets power, when the circuit is broken by the Kill switch the engine stops. The blue/white wire goes to the Start switch and this circuit is completed via the bike frame on the original Yamaha switch.

You need to identify 2 wires on the new Kill switch that make when ON and break when Off and these connect to the R/W harness leads. For the starter you need to identify the 2 wires that make contact when the Starter button is pressed On. One wire will go to the frame and the other will connect to the blue wire from the harness.

The other wires may just provide different switch options e.g. make when On or break when On.
 
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Thanks Paul......frustratingly the new Domino switch did not come with a wiring diagram, even a very basic one would of been super handy, I've Googled it but again couldn't find any relevant information...... !
 
Here are the best diagrams I can get that are supposed to be for your Domino switch:
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This shows only 5 wires. It may be that the 2 Blue wires are the same connections duplicated?
On the Switch colors you need to use the other diagram to translate e.g. N/G is Black/Yellow.

The Starter seems simple: Orange(AR) to Blue on harness and White/Black(B/N) to frame/earth.

The Kill Switch??: You need to connect the two R/W wires from harness to Blue(BL) and Black(NE - looks like NC on switch diagram). These wires disconnect when the Kill Switch is pressed (Off).

Warning: You need to double check these and make sure there are no connections between these wires and the switch body. Double check all connections with VOM on the Ohms setting before connecting. Do not trim any wires until you know it is all working.
 
Fantastic Paul, that's great, I'll take a proper look at this tonight.....In the meantime I also got the attached PDF. The only thing I'm not certain on now is the N/G Black/Yellow Wire.........
 

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For the Kill switch you use either the Blue and Black wires
or
the Blue and Black/Yellow wires.

One of these combinations works opposite to the other so allows for modern ignition systems that may need either a power on or power off signal to switch off the ignition.

Use the ohmmeter to determine which pair makes contact when the Kill switch is set to ON and then breaks when you switch to Kill/OFF. You can always just wire the leads to a bulb and battery if no ohmmeter is available. When the kill switch is switched to Kill/OFF this will cut the ignition circuit so no current flows between the 2 Red/White wires on your harness. I think you will use the Blue and Black wires and ignore the Black/Yellow based on my interpretation of the switch diagram, but this is where you need to test for the correct make and break combination.

Note: With the XS the full ignition current will pass through the switch.The switch diagram states a current load of 3A, is this going to be sufficient for your XS ignition circuit?? I know that some of the modern electronic systems will pull near 10A at start up, but I think you are running the original points system. Perhaps someone else can comment on the current rating for a points system please.........
 
I note from the clear pdf you were sent that the cable is 0.75mm and it looks to be thin walled, this means it can handle up to 14A. So no fear of the cable overheating. This leaves the question about the switch current rating. I searched for ignition current for an XS with points and found a reference to 3A with engine not running. This current will drop off once the engine is running. So I guess your switch should be fine though at the top of its specification.

See how it goes then.
 
Hey Paul, I wired it up exactly as you said using Blue and black and ignoring black/yellow and I think you are spot on, on the ohm meter the reading is 34.8 in the kill position and 0 in the run position...........

Also, when you are blanking off wires what is the correct way to end them, snip the end off then heat shrink over?
 
Blanking off wires? Not sure? If it is mains wire then I just terminate it in a junction box. For motorcycle and car stuff I would be careful using heat shrink to terminate a wire because it can fall off easy. There is a heat shrink available with a thermal adhesive on the inside which should work. My preference would be to remove the wire completely, especially if it can be refitted easily at a later date, or just cut the wire very short and strap it to an adjacent wire using heat shrink. This way the wire is supported and the heat shrink is less likely to come off:
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Ordered some 3:1 3mm adhesive lined heat shrink......should do the trick!
 
So having just bought a new battery I finished off the wiring today. When I turn the key the speedo lights up but when I hit the start button nothing happens....this is something simple......any idea?
 
Hi Paul

Yes I tried that but it's the same so I've kept it as you originally said........hmm Long day working on the bike today.....I'll have a think tonight and come back to it in the morning!!! Bikes huh....drive me nuts!
 
The start switch is not always the only wire required to activate the solenoid for the starter. Some XS models have a clutch/neutral light/side stand interlock system controlling the switching on. Check your bike's wiring diagram to see what interlocks exist, may only be the clutch and neutral light.
 
Funny that you should mention that Paul as the bike was in neutral but the new led neutral light was not lit......I don't think there are any interlocks on the clutch or sidestand, unless the clutch has to be pulled in to start it?
 
This is my exact diagram. Would it make a difference if the brown and sky blue wires were the wrong way around at the neutral light or is that not a problem? The components I have removed are as follows (just in case it's relevant); light checker, reserve lighting, flasher cancelling unit and flasher relay.
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From the diagram the neutral light is not part of and interlock and the clutch does not seem to be switched either. I am not sure of the interplay between the light checker and the safety replay but the wiring diagram shows the yellow alternator wire going to it. When you activate the starter as soon as the engine powers up the power from the yellow wire switches the starter off, thus preventing the starter motor activating when the engine is on. You may need to open this question to a bigger audience as I am not too familiar with this.
 
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