Wiring Diagram Feedback

[Ryca]

Hey Folks,

I am just about to wire up this beast http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39854 and am looking for some feedback on my diagram.

A bit of background: This is a 1977 XS650D. Batteryless, kick only. I have installed a HHB PMA system, and a Sparx Capacitor. I am running the stock points and coils. I plan for my lights to be hard wired.

This is my first time wiring a motorcycle... Or anything. I made this diagram after looking at a few dozen on here, any and all feedback is appreciated -- i really want to get the right so i dont blow some shit up.

Thanks !!

 

[pamcopete]

The fuse should be in the wire going to the ignition switch.

 

[Ryca]

Are you referring to the 20 amp that is leading to the capacitor ?

 

[XSLeo]

Yes, the 20 amp fuse. There should NOT be any fuse between the cap and reg/rec. In your diagram if the 20 amp fuse blows the load of the cap on the reg/rec is removed, this lets the reg/rec go totally berserk. Pumping voltage spikes up to 20 volts through the system. These high voltage spikes burn up things like ignitions, blows bulbs.
Leo

 

[Ryca]

Thanks for the help everyone -- im sorting this out as we speak.

Im close - and need a bit of knowledge on the SPARX capacitor // PMA wiring.
See following diagram :

 

[Punkskalar]

Thanks for the help everyone -- im sorting this out as we speak.

Im close - and need a bit of knowledge on the SPARX capacitor // PMA wiring.
See following diagram :

This looks proper. Run the (+) to the switch, then to your fuse panel and break off into each circuit from there..

I don't run a fuse between the PMA and the Capacitor, never have.

Hugh

 

[Ryca]

Thanks for all of the feedback.
Everything is running smoothly these days except:

I keep blowing head and taillight bulbs (but not fuses).

Any ideas?

Thanks again!

 

[retiredgentleman]

Thanks for all of the feedback.
Everything is running smoothly these days except:

I keep blowing head and taillight bulbs (but not fuses).

Any ideas?

Thanks again!

It means the voltage is too high. The regulator is unable to control the PMA output properly. Use a VOM to measure the voltage. Better yet install a permanent voltmeter on the bike.

 

[Ryca]

Thanks RG,
that was my suspicion... Aside from measuring the voltage spikes, how do I go about regulating them?

 

[retiredgentleman]

Thanks RG,
that was my suspicion... Aside from measuring the voltage spikes, how do I go about regulating them?

I'll give you my advice, but you won't like what I'm telling you. In your original thread I suggested you keep the stock alternator and add a nos VR-115 with a new 3 phase rectifier. With that charging system, voltage on the road is steady around 14.2 volts, and you don't burn out bulbs.

 

[fredintoon]

Thanks RG,
that was my suspicion... Aside from measuring the voltage spikes, how do I go about regulating them?

Hi Ryca,
what us cheap old guys used to do when our nasty little batteryless British 6Volt 2-strokes kept blowing their tail lights was to install a 12Volt tail light bulb.
Most likely a big rig's 24V tail light bulb would at least cope with the spiky approximation of 12Volts DC that your bike will send directly to your lights as there ain't no battery to calm it down.

 

[Ryca]

Would running a small battery regulate it?

 

[fredintoon]

Would running a small battery regulate it?

Hi Ryca,
Oh yes.
Ditching the capacitor and running a modestly sized motorcycle battery instead is IMHO a better way to go.

 

[Punkskalar]

I'll give the rundown on what I would check.

Sparx - is it still spring mounted? If not, they don't like vibrations.

Carbs - if they aren't sync'd on an XS, the chassis vibes are much greater. Vibrations kill batteries and lights

Lights - are they blowing from voltage issues, or vibrations? Hard to tell sometimes, but if you see physical damage inside the lights (broken glass, broken wire leads, etc..) then vibes are killing them. Our 75' Test Mule used to kill headlights constantly (like once a month) Until we rubber mounted the bucket - problem solved.

Voltage - IF you are getting voltage spikes, thats no good. 12V lights can handle 15 or so volts, but more than that can burn the filaments. Check your voltage at idle, and with throttle.

PMA - Give it a spring tune-up and inspection: http://www.hughshandbuilt.com/2016/03/07/how-to-inspect-and-test-your-pma-system/

Keep us posted on what you find, lets get you back on the road