WJL AKA Wrenchjohns Legacy 70 XS1 in gggGary's hands

I'd recommend against that. There's a distinct possibility of the whole thing falling apart when the solder melts. :yikes:

OK - not QUITE ready to let this go....

What about using a good soldering iron rather than a torch...?
 
From your post in Mailman's leaky tank thread.

Issat a kink in the tach cable?

XS1-TachCableKink.jpg
 
From your post in Mailman's leaky tank thread.

Issat a kink in the tach cable?

View attachment 152082
Think it's just the angle of the shot. But while looking I did find the cable end loose in the collar, an o-ring snugged it "for now". Not sure if the tach cable should be routed ahead of or behind the triple... Got the RH factory header on this morning also.
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About ready for gas and if no leaks, a ride. However the woman in charge is agitating for a horsy ride today instead. maybe time for both if I get busy.
Polishing, clean up, checking "things" continues. Full head stud remove nuts,polish anti-sieze retorque done, the 6mm bolt over the cam chain adjuster was finger tight, normal. Pulled the twist throttle assembly, cleaned, buffed, lubed everything there. Need to look into setting up the front brake, how to adjust between the shoes.
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Hint; a bit of silver spray paint on some paper towel rubbed on the gray cable sheaths hides that dingy "yellowing". Did this on the badly sunburned Royal Star it stayed silver/gray for years of use.
 
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Not sure if the tach cable should be routed ahead of or behind the triple...

Gary, I have looked into this quite a bit myself. I have studied lots of online photos of restorations and original bikes. Near as I can tell , the original factory cables were routed behind the steering head. As photographed below.
The available replacement cables however are longer and routing it behind the steering head causes it to bunch up and just really doesn’t fit very well.
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This was discussed at some length starting at post #3129
http://www.xs650.com/threads/mailman’s-xs2-a-full-on-restoration.51520/page-157#post-604232
 
Azman, you are so right; Duh! :confused:
think the speedo cable is fine.
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Thanks Bob! I remember that discussion now.
Both gauges have somewhat wavery needles, a mailman restoration prolly should be in their future. But bigger fish to fry yet.
The clutch, I had reset the worm to my fairly tight norm. This likely has the one piece rod and may need a to go a bit looser. never had it slip under power BUT it would not spin the motor with a roll down the hill start once warm. It also has an occasional "hair trigger" clutch, thinking I should look for notches worn in the basket?
Been thinking on the way it runs. Had a discussion with 2M about valve lash, set them to .003" and .006" this was larger than where they were. I think I'm going up again to .005" and .010" The factory spec was .006" and .012". Wondering if the early cam profile needs that larger lash....... A serious session of points feddling is on tap too. If that don't get it right, electronic ignition will be next.
Front brake is working OK, but for peace of mind and some cleaning, polishing, that front wheel needs to come apart. May need to talk to Michael Morse.
 
Hint; a bit of silver spray paint on some paper towel rubbed on the gray cable sheaths hides that dingy "yellowing". Did this on the badly sunburned Royal Star it stayed silver/gray for years of use.

ah man gonna do this to my Roadstar cause I see some yellowing. Thanks for posting this Gary! JC
 
Gary , something I have noticed with my carburetors, is that I’m having some difficulty in keeping the throttle action synchronized. Being non linked the two throttle cables have to be adjusted for length independently of each other to assure that the butterflies are turning at exactly the same time.
With my bike, I’ll get them just perfect, ride my bike several times and I notice the engine will start this shaking when you first twist the throttle. ( due to only one carburetor starting to open ) It took me a while to figure out, that my synchronization gets out of whack for some reason and I have to re adjust the cable length/ free play.
I wonder if you or anyone else with the early carbs run into this.
 
If you have new throttle cables, they are probably just bedding in and stretching. Hopefully that will stop once they're "broken in". This is the big issue with multiple throttle cables, they all stretch differently. This was probably the biggest reason for developing the linkage system that uses only one cable. Cable stretch there only affects twist grip freeplay and not sync between the carbs. I guess the early Honda 750 fours had multiple throttle cables and keeping the carbs synced was supposed to be a nightmare.
 
If you have new throttle cables, they are probably just bedding in and stretching. Hopefully that will stop once they're "broken in".
Yeah... the stretching will eventually stabilize. We had the same problem in the airplane world. Whenever possible, we would "preload" cables... sometimes to several hundred lbs. and let 'em sit like that for 24hrs. When done that way, future adjustment were much less frequent.
 
On throttle cables yeah 4sher the old 2 cable setups are a bit futzier. Have to adjust up at the bars. It'll get you practiced at hand over muffs cylinder balancing. Trick is you need three hands and very long arms.... adjust cables then set throttle stops. At least you don't have the intake cross over tube, still not sure if that helps or hurts.
May bolt it up and ride out the few remaining days this season. Decisions, decisions.
 
More shots, made a tool and scraped the crack a bit. hit it with carb cleaner and compressed air. Still thinking, need to chew on it overnight.
It had a 16 tooth front sprocket, hadn't seen one of those before.
It's not pouring oil, just marking it's spot with a dime sized puddle overnight, first couple times, I thought it was the recently oiled clutch cable.
sprocket.jpg 20191019_165400.jpg 20191019_165418.jpg 20191019_163857.jpg 20191019_135813.jpg
 
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Is that a frame and engine numbers matching bike Gary?
 
Is that a frame and engine numbers matching bike Gary?
Yes.
one option floating through my head.
Angle drill into the meatiest area, tap, see if it will suck closed with a screw.

screw..jpg

May go see Mr. tig see if he's dumb enough to try welding it in place....
Other options
the right thing, tear down and weld.
Engine swap, do this one "later", I have a couple "spare" 256 motors.
Not my only 70, a massive parts swap could be done.
 
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