I just picked up a XS1 drum front wheel and did some searching about mating it up to newer model forks but came up with nothing. I dont have the wheel in hand yet, but im hoping that everything is good to go without having to replace the rim. Anyways, looking for any info about what needs to be done to make this work.
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XS1 wheel to 79 forks
- Thread starter FrkyMnky
- Start date
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- Tags
- suspension wheels
On the drum brake backing plate is a groove that mates with a matching lug on the forks. That is the drum brake forks.
The later disc brake forks wont have this lug. You can mount the wheel and then mark the fork as to where the lug is needed, take the fork lower off the upper and get a lug the right size welded to the fork lower.
I think there is a lug that bolts to the fork, off an XS500 or some such.
But they are not very easy to find and cost about the same as welding on your forks.
Leo
The later disc brake forks wont have this lug. You can mount the wheel and then mark the fork as to where the lug is needed, take the fork lower off the upper and get a lug the right size welded to the fork lower.
I think there is a lug that bolts to the fork, off an XS500 or some such.
But they are not very easy to find and cost about the same as welding on your forks.
Leo
Those early bikes used a chromed steel rim.
Leo
Leo
I saw on one of fongs bikes where they drilled the hub and made a brake stay like used on the rear hub. I'm mainly wondering if the axle is the same and if I'm gonna need spacers made. I think the rim is in good condition and while I would like an aluminum rim might be hard to find one that will have the proper angle for the spokes.
This may help: http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13264
I saw that. Im thinking that if I dont find a earlier front end, which I really dont want since I just rebuilt the forks and shaved the triple and forks, that I will construct a brake brace to mount off the stock caliper holes. Im more worried about what needs to be done to make it bolt up with the axle and spacers.
Well, as you may already know, the XS1/XS1B axle is bolted direct to the left clampless lower, the backing plate bearing direct on that leg. The right side floats on the thicker part of the axle shaft, allowing you to adjust the right leg in/out to get smooth suspension movement, followed by clamping with its single-bolt pinch clamp.
If you look at some of the early `70s Hondas, you'll find conventional 2-stud clamp systems with drum brakes. Some used a shouldered axle nut to position the axle in the lower. You may need to fashion something like that, or a proper sized spacer that accompanies the axle nut and fits the left lower clamp. On the right side, you may need to fashion a split bushing to fit the axle to the lower clamp.
Then again, someone may have found an axle that offers a better fit...
If you look at some of the early `70s Hondas, you'll find conventional 2-stud clamp systems with drum brakes. Some used a shouldered axle nut to position the axle in the lower. You may need to fashion something like that, or a proper sized spacer that accompanies the axle nut and fits the left lower clamp. On the right side, you may need to fashion a split bushing to fit the axle to the lower clamp.
Then again, someone may have found an axle that offers a better fit...
It looks like, as best I can tell, that the axle sizes were all the same for the front; 17mm. I only have the '79 front end, so the forks and axle are off of that. It looks like except for maybe spacing that the wheel will bolt up just fine. Might have to get some custom spacers turned, but that isnt such a big deal. Another question I have is can you swap the hub so the brake side is on the right? It would put the brake cable running in front with the linkage either on top or up front. I dont see any mechanical problems but it means the wheel is turning the opposite direction from which designed so I wasnt sure if that would cause problems with leading/trailing edge on the brakes.
The front brakes are what are called a dual leading shoe, I think they would work in reverse. Or would that make it a dual trailing shoe brake. Do you plan on running a speedo? If so you need to mount the wheel the right way. The speedo drive on the wrong side would spin the speedo backwards.
I guess you can try it. If reversed they might just not work well.
Leo
I guess you can try it. If reversed they might just not work well.
Leo
I have a GPS for speedo so that will not be a problem. I can run it on the proper side I would just need to get another fork since I have already shaved that side. I could swap the forks, but I would need to check clearances with the drain bolt since it will be on the inside. Anyways, just trying to do some research before I get the wheel and can start piecing everything together.
The axle diameter is the same and your '79 axle will work. It will provide the needed (and adjustable to center the wheel) spacing on the left side. On the one I helped with, we added 3 washers on the right but you could make a spacer. The guy had the cleat welded to his fork lower but gggGary suggested using the carrier bracket for your caliper as a basis for making a bolt-on cleat. That may be a better option.
If your fork leg is shaved, you could still weld the brakestay lug on there, just got to be really careful to not warp the lower.
Leading shoes on drum brakes normally apply their stopping force to a fixed post, and have a slight tendancy to want to 'dig in' to the drum, which is a kind of assist. Trailing shoes are opposite, applying stopping force to the actuating cam (which doesn't want this extra load, and if worn/crooked will try to cock over the shoe), and try to move away from the drum, requiring extra brake effort.
The result of running the brakes backwards will be reduced braking power and increased brake lever effort...
Leading shoes on drum brakes normally apply their stopping force to a fixed post, and have a slight tendancy to want to 'dig in' to the drum, which is a kind of assist. Trailing shoes are opposite, applying stopping force to the actuating cam (which doesn't want this extra load, and if worn/crooked will try to cock over the shoe), and try to move away from the drum, requiring extra brake effort.
The result of running the brakes backwards will be reduced braking power and increased brake lever effort...
Well I received the wheel today and see what you mean about the leading edge. So in stock form it wouldn't work if I simply tried to run it on the other side. That being said, it looks like you could simply flip the actuating levers so that it is pulled from the opposite direction flipping which edge is the leading. I don't think it would cause any problems as long as you start with a fresh set of brakes. I still can simply flip the forks with the drain on the inside and it will not be a problem at all.
