- here is a clutch modification done by fellow xsler peter von sphinx feat. herbert claeren...he is running a long-stroke 880ccm motor...this is designed to deal with the xstra loads of high performance motors and sidecars

- my winter get away will be to create one similar with a billet basket im waiting for-strong, doesnt get the chattering wear...the process will be the same, the xsact ammount removed will depend on the dimensions of the parts used...i will also be fixing a high ratio primary drive gear-4 teeth less-to the basket and the opposing-4 teeth more-gear to the crank

- this should be possible for all clutch variants but careful measurement first is cheap insurance

- i will combine this with an hydraulic clutch operator

- 8 friction plates @ 3.0mm...24.0mm​
- 7 steel plates @ 1.4mm...9.8mm​
- 33.8mm...original 7-6...29.4mm......4.4mm difference​
- this is the xstra ammount of space required inside the mechanism
- also need to allow about 2.5mm for separation

- 4.4mm gained from turning approx 2.0mm from the inside surface of the boss and approx 2.5mm from the inside surface of the pressure plate
- 2.5mm gained by removing 1.5mm from the bottom of the boss and1.0mm from the outside of the pressure plate
- removing the 2.5mm from the boss underside requires filing the friction plate dog spaces in the basket
- use the pressure plate with the teeth and make sure that the teeth locate into the boss splines at all times

17012009435ti8.jpg

...2.0mm removed
17012009433eu6.jpg

...side view
17012009434vr0.jpg

...1.5mm from the bottom
17012009441ak4.jpg

...file to fit
17012009444zr3.jpg

...so
17012009446ie5.jpg

...2.5mm thinner
17012009447pz7.jpg

...1.0mm for clearance
17012009457pg3.jpg

...complete
17012009451xy6.jpg

...XJ900 springs
17012009454do7.jpg
 
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inxs- I notice on your last picture posted, those xj900 springs have washers-why cant we use washers to increase pressure on our stock springs?
 
- you can...it is a common fix esp as old springs wear out, or if using shorter harder springs...results in a harder to operate action
 
Awesome thread! :thumbsup:

Just another thing that can go wrong.........Thought I'd stuffed my clutch........Then found all the left hand case bolts had either not been tightened properly or had vibrated loose! :doh:

So when I pulled the clutch, the case pushed out instead of the clutch! :eek:
 
Ok, great information. So if I want to replace the entire clutch on my 79 with one from an 83 do I need any extra washers?
 
- no, just remember, 2-2-2,

- 2 washers/shaft-to-hub-bush...(hub)...thrust bearing/2 washers...(boss)...2 washers/nut

- 6 washers and 1 thrust bearing in total
 
I was obviously a bit wrong with the measurements from memory, though I'm still not sure you can do this mod to all xs clutchs:confused:
 
- ive swapped the later 6 plate clutch for the 7 plate clutch several times now - as a complete unit

- havent done it for the earlier 6 plate clutch but as both friction and steel plates were thicker to begin with and there were rubber rings between them i dont think it would cause a problem, but then, as i say, i havent done it so am only theorising
 
- to undo the clutch hub nut...hattip steffi aus helvetia

- 3 old friction plates and 2 old steel plates
- drilled and fixed with 4 bolts
- insert in hub as per normal

0186.jpg


- block the primary gears with a piece of plastic or nylon or alu
- undo...wont break the hub

0187.jpg
 
- ive swapped the later 6 plate clutch for the 7 plate clutch several times now - as a complete unit

- havent done it for the earlier 6 plate clutch but as both friction and steel plates were thicker to begin with and there were rubber rings between them i dont think it would cause a problem, but then, as i say, i havent done it so am only theorising

I have changed the 6 plate clutch of my '82 Heritage into an 8 plate one. I followed the same procedure as for the 7-8 plate conversion and it works fine, but to my surprise however I noticed that the boss of this clutch is a few mm lower than the boss of the 7 plate clutches. The pressure plate engages in the boss, but not more than 1.5 mm or so.

Hein
 
- hein...are you getting the benefit from the 8 plate clutch you were looking for?
 
Sure, Inxs, I use the original weak springs and also put 1.5 mm thick M6 washers under the bolts that compress the springs. (not on top of the springs, but inside the springs!) So the clutch works lighter than before and absolutely doesn't slip.

The only thing that worried me was the fact that the pressure plate only just grabs the splines of the boss when the clutch is fully engaged. But it seems to work o.k.

Hein
 
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- clutch rivet anvil-uli

Im000560.jpg


Im000561.jpg


- these shots of ulis anvil are mocked up to show how its used...the rivets in the photos are too long and should show about 2mm above the washers

- use 8 x 20 mm half round head steel rivets

- riveting by hand with a hammer

- the new owner has modified it somewhat by adding a central threaded rod ... he winds a clamp down on this to hold the clutch in place when he belts it
 
Post 7 in this thread explains how 2 align the clutch with no index dot/hole. Not sure if that helps with a early splineless clutch, just thought i'd put it out there in case it does. cheers

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