Yam_Tech314's official build thread

You'll have to weld cross bars between the two lower frame rails or you'll just have 2 separate tubes flopping around. Might as well just build one from angle iron. There's plans for several versions here on the site. For working on engines, I have an old metal A/V cart I pulled out of a dumpster at work (amazing the good stuff they throw out, lol) to set them on. I attached an angle iron "out rigger" to the side to suspend the cam chain from .....

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To help lug a loose motor around, I fabbed up a couple of "D" handles that quickly attach to the front and rear motor mounts. See, those silly buckhorn handlebars are good for something after all, lol .....

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Progress is spelled F-R-A-M-E.

That's right guys... Frame. That's all there is now (aside from the drawers and shelves full of parts)

Got a box together of all the parts that will fit in my uncle's sandblaster, gonna take them to get done on my vacation. Does anyone on here know the pros and cons of powder coating parts? Is a gloss black paint with a few coats and a clear good enough to not scratch when you reassemble things?
 

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I'm sure you'll get plenty of opinions and powder coating is the common way to go these days. But there can be problems due to how thick the coating is - bunged up screw threads unless carefully masked off for example. When I restored a 1970 Triumph, I was lucky enough to find a local chap who still does old-fashioned stove enamelling and that gave a good strong coat. He sprayed the frame then hung it in an oven made from an old filing cupboard!

Years ago, I stripped a Z1 frame and hand painted that with etch primer and then 2-part yacht enamel and that gave a good strong finish which lasted for years. Couple of coats and some light rubbing down. Quite easy and satisfying to do it meself by hand.

To avoid scratches on reassembly, wrap the frame in rags held in place with masking tape - that's what I did last week before three of us lifted the engine back in. With no damage. And since you have a bare frame, you can use the 'lay the engine on its r/h side and lower the frame over' method which you will be able to manage yourself with little risk of damage. Cheers, Raymond
 
Stray wires rubbing the housing of my brand new bench grinder...

It's peeving me. Am I the only one???

Is there anyone that found a work around to this? I'd like to run it with the cover on for safety reasons, but the squeaking and scratching of the wires on the metal make me cringe...

Just looking for clever ways to fix this... I know it's a bit overkill and unrealistic since it's just gonna keep getting bent outta shape. But does anyone have any solutions? Will I even notice it at max opoperating speed? I'd hate to prematurely scratch up the inside of the cover if I can help it.
 

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I'd also be interested to see who has a clever way to mount this guy to maybe not take up too much space on my bench. I'm limited to where I can mount it due to renting, I wanna limit the holes in my walls as much as possible.. perhaps some kind of out-rigger for the bench? Mount it to the bench with boards to keep the work area free of obstacles?
 
I wanna limit the holes in my walls as much as possible.. perhaps some kind of out-rigger for the bench?
A free standing bench top grinder is great for working with and saving space.
A very heavy base such as say, a Christmas tree stand filled with concrete can provide a heavy base. Pole style pedestal with a flat iron drilled mount plate ? Portable yet strong ? A possible approach.
 
That's kind of a tough question to answer. I have an old reconditioned Sears grinder on a HFT universal tool stand, and it's so off-balanced (the grinder, that is), that if I don't sand bag the base, it'll "walk" across the garage floor until it pulls the plug out of the wall! Best would be to "thunder stud" it to the floor, but I guess you can't do that in your apartment. I will say that the dining room table is definitely not a good place to be running it...
 
You could make it sort of "portable". Mount it to a thick square piece of plywood or board. Then just C-clamp it to your bench top (or whatever, where ever) when you need to use it. I have a "portable" wire wheel set-up like this. It's an old furnace or washing machine electric motor with a wire wheel mounted on it and an on-off switch wired to it, all mounted on a board. I can take it with me and use it just about anywhere.
 
Don't have it now... so no pics, but I had one grinder where I mounted a "T" base to the bottom of it. Anytime I needed it, I just chucked it up in the vise... sat under the bench when not in use.
 
To make a wiggle free base for a grinder or buffer you will just need to drill some holes in the concrete and put some anchors in them. You can go very very small for this.
A free standing bench top grinder is great for working with and saving space.
A very heavy base such as say, a Christmas tree stand filled with concrete can provide a heavy base. Pole style pedestal with a flat iron drilled mount plate ? Portable yet strong ? A possible approach.
 
I'd like to run it with the cover on for safety reasons, but the squeaking and scratching of the wires on the metal make me cringe...

I do not run the metal shield on my bench grinder when I’m using wire wheels. I prefer to use a full face safety shield , such as this, and a good pair of gloves.
You can get them at most hardware stores, I think I got mine at Lowe’s. I also use it when I’m running my buffing wheels and when I’m spraying carburetor cleaner through carbs, so you don’t get blow back hitting you in the face.
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Where is the safety shield?
See Bob's comment above... It's a 10X2" wheel I just found a few days ago. Tried it and it works pretty good. I do need to make a quick detach tool rest for it though.
 
better wire wheels that don't come unglued at the first use.

If you're referring to it being "bushy" for lack of a better term, I actually unpacked it this way. I haven't even had a single use for the grinder yet. Wanted one primarily for lawn mower blades, and to wire off any rust on hardware and small parts.
 
If you're referring to it being "bushy" for lack of a better term, I actually unpacked it this way. I haven't even had a single use for the grinder yet. Wanted one primarily for lawn mower blades, and to wire off any rust on hardware and small parts.
Cheap wire wheels are more like missile launchers, just hate picking the constant fusillade of wires they shed out of clothes and skin. I think there's 6 buffer, grinders round here but only cuz I sold a coupleo_O, a small one with buffing wheels near the MC lift is the most used. Another small one with grinding wheels and rubber feet just sitting on a shelf is #2 There's a belt drive monster with a bucket of water for mower blades.
 
Took a break from head scratching about a bench grinder so that I could make some real progress...

I hope I honored RobinC by using his methods to restore my side emblem. Not sure if it took him three hours... But that's how long it took me hand sanding this guy... Gonna use steel wool for the start of the next piece as it's MUCH larger.

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This picture is BEFORE buffing and other necessary final steps but DAMN. The scar from the shifter is virtually gone entirely. Really happy that Robin took the time to post this for me to use. I know many of you were fond of him because he's on the home page.

Again, I hope this would make him happy. I've never EVER wet sanded anything at all in my 22 (almost 23) years of life. Here's to my first attempt!

The last two pictures are the 1000 grit.

Also. I used tooth paste for it's grittiness. I know it's nowhere near as good as buffing stones or compounds but it's all I have laying around at the moment and DOES make a noticeable difference.
 

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