Yam_Tech314's official build thread

Agree, for a stockish fun play ride purpose spending more money and time won't payback. If an XS is being modded for competition perhaps more money invested in performance could be justified. A first XS play bike? I'd encourage that to get to a nice running condition before bigger and more costly decisions are made. A slightly modded stock XS is quite a pleasurable ride.
-R
 
As far as charging systems go, upgrade some of the components like the reg and rec on the stock system and I don't think you can do much better.

So you're saying there's no real benefit to a rephase? Ive heard they vibrate less and burn fuel more efficiently. There's no power increase involved with the process?

Also, I've just heard that points can leave you sit from time to time and idk much about them. Just knew how to take it apart. That's the easy part.

A reg/rect. All in one unit right? Makes it a little different to wire into a harness doesn't it? Hmmmmmm... I'm intrigued
 
What's you end goal for the 76 XS Standard ? It is a 1976 vintage twin above all else.
Online internet winter reading may put all kinds of ideas in your thoughts but better understanding things like the points and the expected twin running characteristics may even tempt you to re assemble it more stock like. If you want a smoother more efficient stronger engine bike like many of us have had many years ago, those are easily bought everyday.
Just trying to "keep it real" on thoughts.
 
A reg/rect. All in one unit right?
You would be better off making your own. There are plenty of threads on here on how to do it.

Re-phase no, PMA no. Use that money elsewhere. There will be plenty of other places to spend money.

The garage forum is littered with threads where people start out with big intentions and then burn out. Do it one step at a time.
 
I think you're confusing the charging system and ignition system. They're separate systems. A PMA is a charging system. An electronic ignition to replace your points is a nice and good upgrade, but you can do that with the stock charging system. As GLJ mentioned, no, not a combined reg/rec unit. Those aftermarket motorcycle specific combined units are blatant rip-offs. You can assemble your own for 1/4 to 1/3 the cost that is just as good, maybe even better, than those.

Yes, no real power benefit to a re-phase. It just changes the sound and feel of the motor mostly, and maybe reduces the vibration a bit. Honestly, the vibration level on a well tuned stocker isn't that bad. And with having to have both the crank and cam re-worked, plus the need for a new ignition, you're talking quite a big chunk of cash here.
 
The stock (OEM) 5th gear has 23 teeth. Mike's (and other suppliers, I'm sure) has a replacement, with 24 teeth. What's one stinkin' tooth, you ask? It changes your final drive ratio (overdrive). Same top(ish) speed, lower RPMs. This can also be accomplished by changing sprockets, but that changes your ratios throughout all the gears. All things the same, the "real" 5th gear only changes 5th gear.
Does that "overdrive" gear last, and does the other gear it meshes with last?
Changing the number of teeth on one gear, while keeping the shaft C-C distance and its driven gear tooth count, sort of breaks the rules of gear design. At least the metric "module" system, where there is a strict relationship between module (1-2-3- etc) and the gear base circle. The base circles of a gear pair is touching each other, or put differently, the two base circles added together, divided by two is the correct shaft C-C distance.
 
Hey all, long time no see. I’ve been SUPER busy trying to catch up with myself financially. Im sure we all know how that’s basically a losing battle at times.

However, I’ve decided I’m done letting money stop me from trying to gain some kind of ground and bring myself a bit closer to riding the thing.

I took a few parts outta the attic, and out of the drawer they were living in so that I could DE grease, and RE grease everything. I’m gonna be rebuilding ,y steering tonight if I can, but I’m reusing the 18 top and bottom ball bearings with a whole ass load of new grease as to not lose them.

There’s one kink in my plan. When I had my uncle paint the frame, he also painted the groove that the balls ride in on the bottom of the stem. I imagine this will need sanded down to bare metal and polished so it doesn’t get all crunchy after a few turns... thoughts???
 

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Avoid sharp corners on the scraper. The point is to not put scratches in the hardened surface of the race.
 
So... I'm missing ONE BB iny triple tree... Will that hinder me entirely? What are the risks of putting it together while not having them all? Could this lock up my steering?
 

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Top, bottom same size bearings, if you GOTTA leave one out leave it out of the top bearing.
A. Easier to get at and add one when you get a round tuit.
B. Top bearing takes less load than the bottom one.
 
PS it's a fact of bearing life that the balls will move AWAY from the area of highest load so there will be an empty gap where a bearing is needed most..:cautious:
 
I was always taught to have one ball less than full on bearings with loose balls. More space for grease and less rubbing between balls
In a way I guess that makes sense, but isn't this why cages were invented for ball bearing assemblies? In my old huffy bikes they'd always have a thin spacer/cage that had tabs to space the bb's evenly.

Either way, it's gonna get a ball put in where it's missing so I don't risk speed wobble due to a Shaky triple tree. Looks freaking good though if you ask me.



P.S to everyone...:

This is a result of boredom, and something I'm trying to accomplish without spending a dime. I don't know if I mentioned this, but I wrecked my car that was only new to me for like three months, so that's eating up a ton of money that SHOULDVE gone to my bike. Life is grand though, I'm alive and still able to accomplish even the smallest of tasks to further this build, so thank God for that.
 

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The local bicycle shop usually has loose ball bearings, normally for less than it's worth to open the register.
 
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