Yam_Tech314's official build thread

I have nothing of the sort. But I rigged a few bolts to work just to see it come together. As far as wheel spacers go though, I believe I'll need a smaller one for the right side.

The one i have now is much too thick for it to fit in with the caliper mount.
 
Little details like this really stand out though in my opinion
True ! Attention to detail shows how particular your bike is together. In my own case, it's a chrome affliction. Too lazy to polish much but surprise bling everywhere.
:rolleyes:
 

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OK... here's the rear shoulder bolt for the stay. Thinkin' back. I'm pretty sure I left the front on that swingarm?
And this should be the correct spacer for mag and disk setup.
I'm thinkin' 20 bucks and your first born male.... but PM me and we can haggle over the kid. :rolleyes:

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I remember the stay being fastened to the swingarm... I can't remember if you used zipties or bolts though... I looked in my poor excuse for a Bag N' Tag bin, and found similar hardware. Do you have dimensions for the bolt pictured with the spacer? This is what I found lyin' around.

Kinda thinking they're for the rear brake actuator. But it's been so long I'm not sure now.
 

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On a side note, I made the mistake of using steel wool on the forks to try and remove stubborn oxidation. Rather than 1,000 grit I then used 180 grit to try and rough it up for a good polish. The parts that were missed by the steel wool polished out alright, but in comparison I really put some gouges in the metal...

Will a few good long and patient passes with 1000 grit wetsanding make this shine as good as new? I want a smooth finish. Not a rough but still shiny one

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Good example of what I consider a smooth finish ⬆️⬆️⬆️⬆️⬆️⬆️⬆️⬆️⬆️⬆️

The atrocity I created with steel wool... ⬇️⬇️⬇️⬇️⬇️⬇️⬇️⬇️⬇️⬇️
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Those are drum brake stay bolts. The oval headed one fits in the drum, other one at the front in the swingarm.

To sand out those scratches, you'll need 400 and 600. You'll still be at it next year with 1000, lol.
 
Yes, that looks like the forward bolt. Or at least... it'll work for it.
Those scratches are from the 180 grit, not the wool.... way too rough. :yikes:
Only way to fix it now is go over 'em with 220, then 320, 400, 600, 800 then a 1000. In other words, deep scratches require progressively finer grits.
 
To sand out those scratches, you'll need 400 and 600. You'll still be at it next year with 1000, lol.

So you're saying if I go from 400 to 600 I can skip 1000 and just polish from there?

Also, I'm assuming I can't use either of the stay bolts from a drum rear on the new mag rear?
 
Only way to fix it now is go over 'em with 220, then 320, 400, 600, 800 then a 1000. In other words, deep scratches require progressively finer grits.

DAMMIT. that makes me sad... But hey, while I'm at it I guess I'll just get every nook and cranny I can and really try to get it done completely today... :banghead:
 
I go from 400 or 600 directly to buffing. I don't think I even have any paper finer than 600. But I buff on a wheel. If you're just hand polishing, you may need to go finer on the paper.

The rear drum brake plate bolt with the oval head definitely won't work. The front stepped bolt may or may not, you'll just have to try it. The length of the step may not be right.
 
Try that oval drum brake bolt in the forward mount on the swingarm and see if it fits. Inquiring minds want to know.... :whistle:
 
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longer than it should be. But I'm sure it'll do the job...?

As far as the wheel spacers for the rear though, this is what I've got.
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I believe it's too wide of a spacer to coexist with the caliper mount. But if I run JUST the caliper mount there's too much space. If I read the thread right earlier, there's a thinner right side rear wheel spacers for disc brakes correct?
 
It's all coming together in my brain now that I can see the picture of it.

Will it fit with my current rear axle? And will I be able to leave the other spacer/dust cover on the left side?

I don't doubt YOU. I doubt my own judgement. Looking into this picture specifically I'm trying to wrap my head around it all LOL
 

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Well as the picture of axle components shows all the parts inline from left to right, I see how YamTech has perhaps followed too closely. The rear axle does actually go say.. "right to left" which puts the 27mm nut on the sprocket side. There are actually a couple reasons why.
Firstly, the chain adjustment tab with the built in washers has a chain adjustment scale notch on the top for visibility. If a guy puts that left scale adjuster thingy on the right. The notch is on the bottom and no longer visible.
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Beyond that I can only assume that Yamaha prefers the axle nut on the left side. Why ? If you think about the strength of the engine pulling in a counter clockwise direction on the axle and wheel sleeves, if anything were to loosen or bind the forces would then be attempting to unscrew the axle with the axle nut on the right.
I'd put it on the left.. :twocents:
-RT
 

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