Yam_Tech314's official build thread

Backfiring is usually an indication of being too lean. Have you had the carbs apart and cleaned yet?
Kickback could also be the timing too advanced... either set wrong or the advance being stuck advanced. Has it been cleaned up and lubed?
 
Backfiring is usually an indication of being too lean. Have you had the carbs apart and cleaned yet?
Kickback could also be the timing too advanced... either set wrong or the advance being stuck advanced. Has it been cleaned up and lubed?
I've had the carbs apart twice, and during those two tear downs, the first time was a proper cleaning inside and out, the second time was putting in new jet needles and seats. I also put in another new jet in each carb. I went with stock sizing. I haven't messed with the timing AT ALL simply because I've never even owned a machine with points ignition. It's possible that the mixture is too lean, after all, I have no filters, and I'm running it on slide setting #3 (middle spec) the plugs we're kiiiiinda whitish last I looked. What would I need to do to see if the timing is off? How do I go about cleaning and setting points properly?
 
I haven't messed with the timing AT ALL simply because I've never even owned a machine with points ignition.
Well, before you can set your carbs up, you really have to have ignition set up and working correctly. That's entirely too big a subject for just one comment. Read how it's done in the manual... then do a site search for setting points, setting timing and checking and lubing the advance. Once you understand the basics, ask questions here and we can fill in the gaps.
 
Well, before you can set your carbs up, you really have to have ignition set up and working correctly. That's entirely too big a subject for just one comment. Read how it's done in the manual... then do a site search for setting points, setting timing and checking and lubing the advance. Once you understand the basics, ask questions here and we can fill in the gaps.
Good call. I've been relying on yours, and others advice a bit much. It never hurts to read a manual and just try it myself first. Some things are best to discover by myself. I appreciate you encouraging me to just look it up by myself, and ask questions later. I need to grow up a bit in that aspect haha. I'll let you know what kind of info I dig up.
 
The kick back, backfiring, and blowing the carbs out of their holders can all be related to the timing being off a little bit. To accurately check it and dial it in exactly, you're going to have to get a timing light. These bikes like their timing set dead nuts.
 
I'm liking the order to the tune ups comment. Seems like I've almost instinctively (with some help) been moving in the right direction. Still gonna take a look at my cam chain tensioner and make sure it's not TOO TIGHT. haven't actually had my adjuster cap back off since I tightened it the first time.

I'll be doing some very exciting research and work to the points gap, should be fun.
 
New question regarding the backfiring/timing/tuning... Upon readjusting my cam chain tensioner, I've found that no matter what I do, I can't get my cam chain tensioner to stay IN. Might sound weird so let me explain... Apparently spec is 1mm fluctuation between flush, and recessed. Correct me if I'm wrong... Does the inability to tighten or loosen it to spec mean I need a new chain? I can adjust the nut by hand.
 
GYam Tech, I hear in your video the ratcheting of your ratchet as the valve springs strength push the cams and allow the cam chain to slacken and run with it. Seeing that “jumping” of the adjuster.
If you try the same motion with a solid bar and socket, slowly and in control of the cam chain tension, you will see less “jumping” action of the adjuster.
I hope this helps.
-RT
 
You adjust the nut in 'till all that slop in the chain is gone. Keep turning it in until it only jumps about a mm between flush and recessed. If you turn it too far, it'll be flush with no 1mm jump. Most people here do it with the engine running. I do it by rocking the crank back and forth with the nut on the alternator rotor.
 
I appreciate the advice Jim. It seems that no matter what I do, it jumps like Machine said. I ought to try a solid wrench... Either way. Perhaps it's been far too loose this whole time? Idk... I turned it in a whole lot that day and it never sat flush with an inward motion. Always seemed to kick out no matter what.
 
You don't want it flush with the inward motion, you want it flush with the outward motion - but not with those big jumps machine mentioned caused by the valve springs pushing the cam. Confusing huh? And easy to screw up. That's why it's so much easier to set with the motor idling. No way to really screw that up. Tighten the adjuster until the in-out motion stops or nearly stops, then loosen it back up until you get the in-out motion required (about a MM or so). You perform this whole adjustment procedure as the motor sits there idling. To hear what a too loose chain sounds like, you can loosen the adjustment way up until you hear ticking like loose valves. Oil won't come squiring out while running with the adjuster cap off, but you may get a few drips oozing out. Fold up a paper towel and set it on top of the crankcase under the adjuster to catch any possible drips.
 
Wow has it been awhile since I posted here or what?

Just a small update for you all. But I got a friggin' house. Renting, yes. But still mine for the forseeable future.

Check it out guys. Tell me what you think of my new work station! Obviously I haven't put up a table, or gotten my bike in here yet but gimme a break y'all, it's been 4 days! Bike coming home tomorrow hopefully!
 

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