Yet Another Hardtail Project

Looks good. Do you have a projected finishing date? And what is this biker bar called?

I'm AIMING for the end of June but as we all know dates come and go so we'll see. I have a feeling I'll lose a few days here and a few days there from ordering parts and stuff. I have the tank now, springer should be here tomorrow, I got the big fin cylinder kit in from MikesXS today. I'm going to order the tires when I pickup the forks.

Oh and I was thinking I was naming her Black Betty but I feel like that's unoriginal.
 
I'm glad to see you brought it to someone that knows what they're doing to have it welded. Now go buy a little MIG welder to do all the various welding that you still need done.

Learning to weld on an area that could cost you your life is foolhardy at best. Having your frame come apart at 60 would definitely ruin your day. 150 bucks for your ass is pretty cheap in my book.
 
I'm glad to see you brought it to someone that knows what they're doing to have it welded. Now go buy a little MIG welder to do all the various welding that you still need done.

Learning to weld on an area that could cost you your life is foolhardy at best. Having your frame come apart at 60 would definitely ruin your day. 150 bucks for your ass is pretty cheap in my book.

I wrote a reply, then FF crashed. :banghead:

Yeah I didn't plan on doing any of the welding myself, though I would like to learn. My father has a MIG welder but he said he doesn't have the proper gas mix for serious welds, he cheaps out on it just to tack stuff.

I've been debating filling one of his spare tanks with the proper mix and using it for practicing on some scrap metal.
 
all kinds of goodies going on...

Got myself a lift from Harbor Freight. The motor is back from powder and I just got the order from MikesXS yesterday with my seals, 5th gear and stuff so I can start rebuilding this weekend. Got my seat from Redtailleather.com, tacked the seat posts on, had the nut milled down for the forks, test fit the forks, got the tires mounted for mock up. I also decided against the sporty tank for sure(maybe Teebs will hate my ride less :D). I decided on a Paughco 807B. It's apparently not all that common. None of the distributors my local shop has had the tank in stock, so he had to order it right from Paughco. I only saw it online in one or two other places. It looks like the one tank some people use but it's 10" wide not the 9" wide I see more, dual caps too. That should be in next week.

I still have work to do with the grinder on the gusset and clean up welds and such.

Can't wait to get the motor back in so I can work on designing the mid controls.

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Thanks for the compliments. I did a little bit of work today. Changed out the 5th gear, replaced the oil seals on the crank and trans and then dropped them into the top of the case. I was going to throw the threebond on there and seal the cases up buuuut I couldn't figure out how to get some of the seals out of the top half of the case, how the hell do I get those out? I thought I would just be able to tap them out, I was mistaken.

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This is what I was talking about, how do I get these out?

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It's a regular seal and will tap out from that position, it's just stuck. I have a seal puller, but you can tap the edge with a flat ended punch-the seal will bend a bit, and if you tap slightly toward the center it won't damage the bore.

The bike is looking good. :)

John
 
Thanks for the compliment. I tapped to far to the center the first time and tore it(not that that's a bad thing it's being replaced). I will try to hit it a bit harder and see if I can get it to break loose, I was afraid of damaging the bore. Any tips on the one above it? That one looks like it could be trickier.
 
It doesn't hurt to bend then to get them out, just don't punch the bore. The shift shaft seal will lever out. I have a little corkscrew tool that pries them out, but you can lever it out with a screw driver underneath one side, again being careful not to get against the bore-you can even soften the corners of a screwdriver, or small pry bar. It does not need or want to come straight out.The only strength to these seals is a thin metal band on the outside, and it will bend easily, at which point it will come right out. I assume you will replace the clutch rod seal, too VERY important.

John

John
 
It doesn't hurt to bend then to get them out, just don't punch the bore. The shift shaft seal will lever out. I have a little corkscrew tool that pries them out, but you can lever it out with a screw driver underneath one side, again being careful not to get against the bore-you can even soften the corners of a screwdriver, or small pry bar. It does not need or want to come straight out.The only strength to these seals is a thin metal band on the outside, and it will bend easily, at which point it will come right out. I assume you will replace the clutch rod seal, too VERY important.

John

John

Thanks I'll give that a try, I got the other one to tap right out last night. Yeah I'm replacing all of the seals, the clutch rod seal was leaking before I pulled everything apart. I have the new seal, bushing and 1 piece rod. There are a few seals in the kit that I've yet to figure out where they go.
 
I just compared the numbers on the old seal to numbers on the new seal. If it matched I used it. If not kept checking until it did.
 
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