-Xs79-

One question guys, is it better to use copper sealer or silicone gasket sealer for head gasket?
Not sure what other might suggest but I personally would not use silicone sealant on a head gasket.

And if you feel the need to use it anywhere on a paper gasket I would say to put on very thing and even wipe off any you can with your finger, just enough to leave a film is the most you want. I've seen where some have put on too much and it acts like a lubricant and the gasket slides out when fasteners are tightened.

What do you say Jim?
 
I have put the cylinder back in its place, piston rings ready, front guide aligned, and gasket in place.
I just put sealant on one side to keep it in place.
I am happy with the results, and all the forum content has been very helpful.
View attachment 159028 View attachment 159029 View attachment 159030 View attachment 159031

I know it's too late now but I hope you cleaned those cylinders real good before installing the pistons. I always liked wiping down with good engine oil and then wipe off with clean white cloths, repeat that until the white cloth looks clean after wiping off the oil.
 
Not sure what other might suggest but I personally would not use silicone sealant on a head gasket.

And if you feel the need to use it anywhere on a paper gasket I would say to put on very thing and even wipe off any you can with your finger, just enough to leave a film is the most you want. I've seen where some have put on too much and it acts like a lubricant and the gasket slides out when fasteners are tightened.

What do you say Jim?
Not a fan of silicone sealant at all. In fact, I downright dislike the stuff. Copper spray for the head gasket, Permatex Aviation gasket sealer for all others.
 
I know it's too late now but I hope you cleaned those cylinders real good before installing the pistons. I always liked wiping down with good engine oil and then wipe off with clean white cloths, repeat that until the white cloth looks clean after wiping off the oil.

I did it. I've spent a lot of time reading about your reconstruction posts. But it's good to be reminded. Thank you.
 
After researching a little withdraw the starter motor.
IMG_20200208_141102.jpg IMG_20200208_142037.jpg

IMG_20200208_142000.jpg
 
HELP!
I was cleaning the charging system while I realized that in TDC the brands did not synchronize. Remove the rotor cover and this is what I have.
Apparently someone put a newer one on my 79 model.
What should I do? I would like to be completely sure that I am in TDC to finish putting together and putting my engine on time.

IMG_20200210_110415.jpg

IMG_20200210_110434.jpg
IMG_20200210_110410.jpg
 
Going by the gray epoxy in the rotor, someone's rewound it without bothering to clock it correctly. Your best bet would be to get another rotor that's clocked correctly. If you have a runout indicator, you could use that to find TDC on the pistons and scribe a timing mark on the existing rotor.

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I think I would pull the rotor off and check the key. It could be missing or sheared.
Agreed. If you haven't had the rotor off, definitely pull it and check the woodruff key.
However.... even if you re-key it correctly, I don't think I'd trust it. It might be camera distortion, but it definitely looks clocked wrong during reassembly.

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Looks good. Just to give you a frame of reference, each tooth on the cam is 10° apart. Here's what one tooth off would look like...

View attachment 159949
I'll add in; one tooth off on the crank sprocket would be 20 degrees.
 
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