Thinkin' out loud... I am getting low on cores. What you want for 'em Ken?
 
Hey Mailman. I would be happy to pay the freight for you to send it this way for some gonzo experiments. Hate to see stuff go to waste. I know NM is in lockdown but the usps has ways to lobe it over them and it's clear sailing from El Paso on. :)

I'm actually still using it right now for my motor build, I need it for the timing mark. I can let it go after that.
 
A tale of two rotors.
Two identical rotors.... prolly even within a year or two of each other. On one, the screws come right out... easy peasy. On the other, one comes out, one shears the head off as soon as you touch it and the other 4 have to have their heads drilled off. Then you gotta put it in the drill press to drill the shanks out and re-tap the holes... we're talkin' itty bitty 3mm screws here. My guess is some assemblers were judicious in their use of epoxy, and others slopped it on everywhere... including the threads.
The difference is one takes about 1 1/2 to 2 hrs to tear down and rebuild and the other about 6 to 8. "life is like a box of chocolates." :rolleyes:


PXL_20210320_205555391.jpg
 
A tale of two rotors.
Two identical rotors.... prolly even within a year or two of each other. On one, the screws come right out... easy peasy. On the other, one comes out, one shears the head off as soon as you touch it and the other 4 have to have their heads drilled off. Then you gotta put it in the drill press to drill the shanks out and re-tap the holes... we're talkin' itty bitty 3mm screws here. My guess is some assemblers were judicious in their use of epoxy, and others slopped it on everywhere... including the threads.
The difference is one takes about 1 1/2 to 2 hrs to tear down and rebuild and the other about 6 to 8. "life is like a box of chocolates." :rolleyes:


View attachment 187498

Wow! That would be hard to drill out such a tiny screw. Trying to do that with a handheld drill, I’d mangle the crap outa that in no time flat! :cool:
 
Got me fiddling w/ rotor/stator when I should be getting ready for work.. Shined up some spots on rotor, got continuity; got 6.1- 1.0 = 5.1 ohms. Continuity on the brush side still attached. Have to find,get new machine screws and put in the ft. brush I pulled out. Tried the Ign. switch (without cleaning contacts) quickly shown continuity position 1 on both red wires. Position 2: red wire on top of gnd. ok, red wire diagonally in connector sounded off the meter in test. have to get into cleaning allof that stuff. good to read this (above) again.
 
Another happy customer here in Arizona! Got my rotor today from Jim, it should outlive me, as long as I don’t run a screw into the slip rings, like I did my last rotor! :laugh2: And speaking as a former Postal employee, let me just add that he does an extremely good job of packing. It had layer upon layer of bubble wrap and was well protected.
He gets the Cliff Clavin Postal Award!
60A9D6C2-3666-4EF2-994B-C138A1DD955E.jpeg Thanks Jim! :cool:
DB6C5744-AE01-43DA-98D9-8553889E8A85.jpeg
 
Another happy customer here in Arizona! Got my rotor today from Jim, it should outlive me, as long as I don’t run a screw into the slip rings, like I did my last rotor! :laugh2: And speaking as a former Postal employee, let me just add that he does an extremely good job of packing. It had layer upon layer of bubble wrap and was well protected.
He gets the Cliff Clavin Postal Award!
View attachment 188018 Thanks Jim! :cool:View attachment 188019
I wish my copper rings were that pretty when i got mine back. Mine were all beat the hell up....no, performance isnt affected, but still, they arent pretty and clean like yours at all.
 
What do yours look like then? Jim’s edit on the first page 1/16 says that for 40 y o rotors you can’t expect them all to look brand new.

I haven’t sent any rotors into Jim YET but would be curious what you received and your expectation is vs reality.
 
no, performance isnt affected,
Exactly.
In comment #1 I stated expected resistance, that runout would be verified, it would be static balanced and new hardware would be installed. Nowhere did I claim it would be "pretty"...... just that it would work as it's supposed to. And per your comment... it does.
 
What do yours look like then? Jim’s edit on the first page 1/16 says that for 40 y o rotors you can’t expect them all to look brand new.
I haven’t sent any rotors into Jim YET but would be curious what you received and your expectation is vs reality.

Here's his rotor. Yes, I keep records. On all rotors, I dress any damage to the rings down with a fine file so nothing is proud of the surface. That way nothing interferes with the brushes. And it's measured to check that runout across the rings is less than .003". In other words, operation is unaffected.

1BAC28B6-4004-4BB0-8ED0-19E88D584CC6.jpeg



When I get a core, I inspect it for damage and determine whether or not it's acceptable. Then it goes on my lathe to measure runout. If all that's good, it goes on a stack... one for the old style and one for the newer TCI type. When I rebuild one, I just grab it off the stack.... it's purely luck of the draw.
So yeah... his ain't a pretty as Bob's. Sorry about your bad luck.
Here's the reality of dealing with 40-50 yr old parts..... if I just used rotor cores that looked "pretty," I'd be charging you guys 2-300 bucks 'cause "pretty" is rare as hens teeth... I'd have to throw away 90% of my cores.

Hope I don't sound too pissy, but my last conversation with 75XSFLORIDA was a far cry from the comment he posted above.


75.png
 
Here's his rotor. Yes, I keep records. On all rotors, I dress any damage to the rings down with a fine file so nothing is proud of the surface. That way nothing interferes with the brushes. And it's measured to check that runout across the rings is less than .003". In other words, operation is unaffected.

View attachment 188045


When I get a core, I inspect it for damage and determine whether or not it's acceptable. Then it goes on my lathe to measure runout. If all that's good, it goes on a stack... one for the old style and one for the newer TCI type. When I rebuild one, I just grab it off the stack.... it's purely luck of the draw.
So yeah... his ain't a pretty as Bob's. Sorry about your bad luck.
Here's the reality of dealing with 40-50 yr old parts..... if I just used rotor cores that looked "pretty," I'd be charging you guys 2-300 bucks 'cause "pretty" is rare as hens teeth... I'd have to throw away 90% of my cores.

Hope I don't sound too pissy, but my last conversation with 75XSFLORIDA was a far cry from the comment he posted above.


View attachment 188047
No the rotor is fine, it works. But I’m just saying I wish it looked as good as that one that the guy got. Nobody likes dings and nicks everywhere REGARDLESS if its functional or not.
 
No the rotor is fine, it works. But I’m just saying I wish it looked as good as that one that the guy got. Nobody likes dings and nicks everywhere REGARDLESS if its functional or not.
You know, I'll even go so far as to offer an apology for the looks... because I fully agree that mailman's looks much better than yours. As I said, that wasn't intentional... it's just luck of the draw.
Consider this... I give $25 back to the customer for a good core. How many pissed off customers do you think I'd have if they spent 8 bucks shipping me their core and I refused to refund the core charge because it was "ugly?"
 
Jim,
Just wanted to note that today I hit the 10,000 mile mark :bike: on my '82 I bought last year with the bum rotor (which I sent to you for a rewind).
It's 3,400 miles later, and it is still putting out exactly the same healthy numbers on the voltmeter as it did when I installed it. :D

Here it is when I removed it,

rotor-3-jpg.160810


....and when I got it back from you:

rotorjim-jpg.162177
 
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