1978 Xs650SE Barn Find

Well some bad news. Got home and found out the boots are the wrong ones. I was sent a set for BS34 carbs not BS38. Will contact the company tomorrow. The saga continues haha.

Tim
 
Yes, the BS38 manifolds are harder to find, especially the '78-'79 type with the vacuum nipples like your bike has.
 
@5twins I ordered from PartsGiant. The ones they have only show 1 picture for the bs38 and they did not appear to have the nipples which is fine bc I am not running a vacuum petcock.

I will give them a call and get everything sorted out.

Tim
 
20210419_183130.jpg

77 BS38 carb holders can be found.
pm if needed.
 
I looked on that site but couldn't find any 650 carb boots. Got a link?
 
Good evening everyone,

Small, but big update. After waiting over a week for the new correct carb boots to come in, I was eager to get out to garage. I got everything back installed and got the bike running after charging the battery.

The bike seems to run way better than before and the rpms does not hang like it used to. I have attached pictures below of the right and left cylinder timing. Left is first picture. Right is second picture .
At 3k rpms the advance is near the mark. (Sorry no pictures). Also below is a short video of how it idles with some throttle blips (you can see rpms in video). What are your thoughts everyone?

Also, I checked the voltage across the battery terminals and it was 22.6v. What can cause the high reading??

Thanks,

Tim
 

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The voltage must be around 14 V running
Engine running
Sounds more or less right .I get the impression it is a fraction very very very very little
late although the strobe pictures don't show that
I don't remember at what rpm the check should be done please check that
I would leave it there for now and get some miles ..checking how plugs look.
Later on a video on the cylinder heads with sound and blipping gives better info
Now it is the Exhaust note dominating but again it sounds OK adjusted.
Was it 5T that Nailed it the Intake Leak ?
 
Jan- it was you and 5twins that suggested an air leak. I believe I had an air leak with the old boots and the advance rod sticking. Now that I lubricated the advance rod it does not hang when rev'd up as noted in previous posts and videos.

I really appreciate everyone's help! I plan to take bike out for a good ride this weekend with a buddy.

Tim
 
Jan- it was you and 5twins that suggested an air leak. I believe I had an air leak with the old boots and the advance rod sticking. Now that I lubricated the advance rod it does not hang when rev'd up as noted in previous posts and videos.

I really appreciate everyone's help! I plan to take bike out for a good ride this weekend with a buddy.

Tim

Yes Sir
Please drive carefully ...It happens when riding ..with a fresh serviced bike + friends that shall I say " Throttle Blipping "
Happens out on the road also But since there might still be things unknown with the bike
Some sort of Running in Driving can be a good starting point.
Some leak would not be Impossible happen Have you Checked the Head Bolts ?
 
Your timing looks pretty good. It's not perfectly matched cylinder to cylinder but that's no easy task, lol. You said the advance is around the mark. You want it at or before it but never past. If it's going past, you'll want to retard the idle timing a little more. You have a little more you can go because neither cylinder is at the right hash mark of the idle timing range yet.
 
Here's a drawing for torquing the cylinder head. I've revised my thinking on the big acorn nuts (#1 - 8). I wouldn't go over 30 on them. Going tighter doesn't really seem to help and just puts more of a strain on the studs .....

sAxkrCc.jpg
 
Jet and 5twins - thank you for the torque specs. When Leo was here he noticed some seeping from the head and told me that I should re-torque the head.

5t- to clarify when rev'd to 3k rpm the timing mark is a sliver to the right of advance mark. This is a huge improvement from before when it was so far left you could barley see the mark bc it would go extremely advanced.
 
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