Jim,
Just wanted to note that today I hit the 10,000 mile mark :bike: on my '82 I bought last year with the bum rotor (which I sent to you for a rewind).
It's 3,400 miles later, and it is still putting out exactly the same healthy numbers on the voltmeter as it did when I installed it. :D

Here it is when I removed it,

rotor-3-jpg.160810


....and when I got it back from you:

rotorjim-jpg.162177

Thanks Jeff. :cheers:
 
looking at all of the shiny 'new' rotors, I have been wondering if there is any noticeable effect by brushing off the outer metal that gets magnetized? I ask because mine still have an even coating only with some crud. A screw driver still slaps down on them all. Going to clean the copper and take some xxxx grit paper to the area I scratched with the multi-meter probes....to distract me from thinking about I just fried my HF sonic cleaner (water).
 
Hot off the press!!
This is a TCI rotor. Will work for any year XS650.
See comment #1 for details.

View attachment 189352
Hi Jim,
I'm interested in your rotor. I have 2 TCI rotors which need re-winding. 1 could be a core and 1 to re-wind as your schedule permits? Please let me know your current pricing and procedure to get them to you.
Thanks,
Gary
 
PM sent. Current pricing is as listed in comment #1
 
EVERYONE - if you have alternator trouble - here are the steps you take:
  1. DO NOT order a PMA - put your wallet away.
  2. Be sure that all electrical connections are clean and secure (like say, those two big screws holding the + and - terminals on the top of the battery);
  3. Check that your battery is fully charged to 12.5-12.7 volts AND that it will hold a charge overnight AND that it will run your headlight or turn signals - with the engine OFF - for at least 20 minutes before the voltage across the + and - terminals drops below 12 volts;
  4. Check your alternator brush length (this takes ~10 minutes and requires a #2 and a #1 JIS screwdriver) - and if they are OK, go to Step 5;
  5. Go through the article XS650 Charging Systems for Dummies by Jim (the article is attached as a .pdf and it is easy to follow, doesn't take a lot of fancy electrical know-how or expensive tools and it will help you to identify your problem - plus it gives you an excuse to buy a nifty new tool - a multimeter - which can be had at Horrible Fright, Princess Auto, Crappy Tire, RadioSchmuck or WallyWorld for about $10-15);
  6. Depending on the results of your tests, either get a new modern regulator-rectifier unit (unlikely if all the connections are clean and secure) or order one of Jim's superb re-wound rotors as advertised above. They literally are better than new.
  7. See Step 1.
I got one of Jim's first re-winds for my 1976 XS650C (the troublesome, but endearing Lucille :yikes:) a couple of years ago but, being a stubborn engineer, I wanted to see how long the original rotor would survive in-service and about 10 days ago on a ride with Lakeview and TotalFool, I found out.....:cussing:

Pete
 

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