Another Oil Sump Repair

Purplezinger

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In my experience the sump screen is always broken in the flat area. I don't think I ever seen one broken in the corrugated area. This latest 650 is no different. After cleaning everything in solvent, I removed the broken screen. There is a raised edge around the frame left over from the manufacturing process. Using a fine file, I cleaned up the edges making them flat as possible. I used a piece of .020 aluminum stock and formed it to match the shape of the frames and JB Welded it in place.
 

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Yep, thats how you do it. I add an extra bead of JB Weld along the edges of the patch toensure a good solid patch.
 
I never understood why Yamaha manufactured it with the flat section. This is not a new problem these things were breaking back in the 70's. Yamaha could have easily corrected the problem then, and they chose not to.
 
is that it??...block off the filter where it caves in?..to the old filter? or I presume modifying a new one would be better?
this is the start of my searching after being suggested to type in "sump filter repair" or such (aint short term memory loss fun!)
JB Weld or Araldite maybe???
 
If the screening is still there, just torn, I simply cover it over with the JB Weld. The screen provides a nice back-up for the epoxy. Think of the glass fiber sheets used in fiberglass work. Impregnating them with the glass resin is what makes the whole fiberglass "assembly". The screen covered and "soaked" through with the JB Weld makes for a very strong repair. You only need add a sheet metal patch if the screening is missing, which in some cases it is.
 
Ok thanks , mine was missing so just fabbed up a couple of thin metal covers, got some JB Weld and done the repairs...just waiting for it to cure.
Also waiting for some good used 38mm manifold rubbers to turn up.
Figured out that its the inside diameter of the carb near the butterfly where the measurement is taken for specs.
 

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Yup like that, I have cut strips out of 1 gallon steel solvent cans with a utility blade and straight edge. form curves to fit the strainer over socket wrench extensions. My laterst version uses stainless steel "mesh". IMHO best that you buy the "original" slow setting JB weld not the 5 minute type. The slow set has greater strength and IIRC a higher temperature tolerance.
A post from the "oil filter mother of all threads" http://www.xs650.com/threads/oil-filter.72/page-13#post-512725
 
Before anybody uses JB Weld for anything for the first time, I'd suggest they do an experiment where they make three or more batches with varying proportions of white to black and let them harden overnight to see the results. You can do it in plastic picnic spoons and mix them with the tip of a knife blade. The more black the harder. Hardness can range from like dried chewing gum to very hard plastic. Then you can repeat the mix you want by matching the shade of gray.
 
yes but; not so sure hard = good ie I try to keep it near the 50/50 recommended ratio. Bottom of a pop can is a GREAT mixing tub.
My take is to make my filter repairs ahead of time and let em cure for a long time.
 
I used the technique described by 5T above on three of my sump filters, and then got tired of being exposed (yes, I wear gloves) to the volume of brake cleaner spray need to scrounge every last little bit of metal particles out of the old filter. Being a bit OCD like most of us, I would lose sleep worrying whether or not just one of those little nasty bits escaped me. So, now I buy a new, reinforced filter, and do the JB weld patch in the critical area.

....and I sleep well, now.
:)
 
Judging by the photos of stacks of filters, and language...just how many xs's go through your hands, 4g?
 
Judging by the photos of stacks of filters, and language...just how many xs's go through your hands, 4g?
I'm sure that you've heard about those schemes in the news where people with liver or kidney problems go to a foreign country for an inexpensive, "miracle" cure, they wake up, dazed, on the side of a road, with a poorly-done series of stitches in their tummy?
Well, there are reports in the Wisconsin area of folks waking up, dazed, on the side of the road next to their XS's, with a strange oil drip coming from the sump area.
 
I uh don't remember or um, I lost count? Yeah that's it I misplaced the tally sheet.
Yamadood; close, they wake up with the oil leak FIXED! LOL
:laugh2:.....and if today's surgeons discovered the miraculous mending marvels made manifest with JB Weld, there might be a medical revolution. Imagine the possibilities.

It is claimed that you can fix a cracked turtle with the stuff, at least.

images
 
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Anybody heard anything of the OP Purplezinger? We got together once a long time ago but didn't keep up with his information, unfortunately. He was a retired machinist or manufacturing guy. Maybe an admin could shoot him an email.
 
If the screening is still there, just torn, I simply cover it over with the JB Weld. The screen provides a nice back-up for the epoxy. Think of the glass fiber sheets used in fiberglass work. Impregnating them with the glass resin is what makes the whole fiberglass "assembly". The screen covered and "soaked" through with the JB Weld makes for a very strong repair. You only need add a sheet metal patch if the screening is missing, which in some cases it is.
If the screening is still there, just torn, I simply cover it over with the JB Weld. The screen provides a nice back-up for the epoxy. Think of the glass fiber sheets used in fiberglass work. Impregnating them with the glass resin is what makes the whole fiberglass "assembly". The screen covered and "soaked" through with the JB Weld makes for a very strong repair. You only need add a sheet metal patch if the screening is missing, which in some cases it is.
I cut winder screen off those expensive winders n town....not that plastic crap but that good....or really old screen
 
I cut winder screen off those expensive winders n town....not that plastic crap but that good....or really old screen
I've also used the 150 ? mesh stainless screen with JB weld and they have held up well
 
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