Is it my turn? Anything to do with lathes, mills and other shop tools

The circular track that the weldhead runs on is knurled for traction of the drive rollers, doesn't show well in that small photo. I'll have to see if I can find a better pic.
The weldhead is used on all diameters of pipe or tube from about 6" to ones large enough to weld the seams on large vessels, 20'
There was also knurled flat straight sections for doing long linear seams.
Makes sense now.
 
Instead of buying a knurler, why not make one? I made this one several years ago, the wheels I bought on ebay for a couple of bucks, the rest I made on the lathe. Easy peasy. What ever you do though, look after it better than I've looked after mine.
 

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Thinking about getting a cold cut metal saw. Eyes are on a Fein 14” Slugger. Anyone have personal experience with this machine?
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I had a "duh" moment when I realized that Dad's other lathe likely had a knurling tool somewhere. Well, I found it and it turned out to be the scissor type! I had to mill down the shank a little, but got it to fit on the 9A.

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This is the way to go. I had to mess around with pressure on the thumb screw (not much was needed with brass) and feed/spindle rates, but it worked a hell of a lot better.

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Was suggested to look at Evolution saws. Good quality and lower price. Apparently Evolution makes the blades for Fein.
Looks like Evolution may be the way to go from a price and feature perspective. One thing to research further is there was a video that reported the fence / Vise wasn’t right on 90 degrees. If the model you chose dosent have the pin in hole to set the angle you can set the angle of cut manually.
 
Another question for you all.. I have a mill at Mom's house that I find myself needing to use more and more. I am thinking about trying to move it over to my shop, but am not sure how to. It is a good bit bigger than this little lathe.

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I know it comes apart, Dad moved it somehow, but any suggestions? If I get it into enough pieces would using an engine lift be viable? I would also need 20A power wired up if anyone has a guess what the cost for an electrician to do that would be.
 
You'll notice some gaps or pry points around the base. Using levers, pry bars etc. start working it up and blocking it with wooden blocks, till you can get a roll cart under it, the low type used for furniture, you can pick them up at harbor Freight pretty cheap and a couple of the small ones should be adequate to be able to roll it around. A "come-along" might be helpful as well depending on where you intend it to be.
A small utility trailer with ramp gate and some 1/2" tp 3/4" plywood to reinforce the ramp, some good ratcheting hold down straps to lock it down with for transport.
And 3-4 good friends, hopefully at least one that has some experience moving heavy stuff.
 
Was suggested to look at Evolution saws. Good quality and lower price. Apparently Evolution makes the blades for Fein.
I have an Evolution multi-material 210mm chop saw. It cuts through wood with nails in as if they weren't there and does a fairly good job of steel box section up to around 80mm square. Only thing is, the bed is a bit unsubstantial, but once the saw is properly bolted down to a proper bench position and material is fed into it from a secure feed arrangement, it's bloody good.
Still on my original blade, but to be honest it's not been used heavily. Replacement blades range from 25 to 40 spons each.
I'd happily buy another. There is a bigger one, but cost goes up substantially, and so does blade cost.
 
It's kind of a big project mills are VERY top heavy. Usually you rotate the column down add width to the base so it's not so tippy.
dragged this home last month.KIMG0528.JPGKIMG0554.JPG
Rolled into place with a pallet jack. Had to cut the skid apart with a sawzall and lower it bit by bit. It's now bolted to 4 foot wide oak boards on rubber pads..
 
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at least one that has some experience moving heavy stuff.
It's kind of a big project
That tells me everything I needed to know 😅. I'll be enlisting some folks that have done this before...

I also wanted to share a cool tool that I got for the lathe, it is a tap/die holder for the tailstock. I saw Dad get taps started holding them in a drill chuck, but with this you can safely hand-feed the tool while using the power of the lathe. A short video for anyone interested. I tried my hand using a die last night and it worked amazingly well.

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Hi folks,

I'm in hope one of you guys could help me with some info.

Would anyone of you use one of the smaller bridgeport models and could tell me X and Y travel?

Edit: Doooh I'm a goof,:laugh2: found already the info, either Laguna Ftv2 or Bridgeport series 1 would be perfect and still somewhat transportable on a palette.


Thanks a lot anyways christian
 
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We had the cheap press at work and someone got a shaft a little bit out of line in and the tubes bent. Not a huge surprise considering the are no carriage keepers to keep it in line with the legs and the tubes were only welded on one side… well they said make it go away, so I did. I’ve got it straightened out and now I’m gonna weld it up and make it safe.
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I obsess so bear with me , or don't.
I'm non-restoring a Craftsman 101.212 to perfect working order. It will remain ugly as sin.
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The 101.00 Atlas did indeed have tapered roller bearings.
The 101.212 Craftsman uses 6305 deep groove ball bearings
the 10100 uses the 701-088 spindle
The 101.212 uses the 701-083 spindle
30305 Timken would accomplish the the swap but..
They are 18.250 mm wide
If you want 17mm wide use the 237 cone -233 cup and shell out $2k for the pair.
The issue with the swap isn't the width however
How do you preload the bearings? The 701-083 spindle has no threaded preload nut .
Practical consideration is tale of the axial clearance of the 6305 you intend to use.

Now on to what I found inside.
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Filthy but nothing broken. I did have a minor hiccup in the F/R tumbler gears and lever. The detent and spring in the lever is irrevocably seized in place and one of the tumbler gears seized to the shaft and the rivet is turning in the plate.
The lead screw is free, not bent or otherwise abused.

Even with the setscrews removed the collar would not budge. Finally forcing a putty knife between the gear and the collar started it moving. There was actually a whole previous evolution that I don't have pics for.
The direct drive coupling , 141-030 had been attacked by flying monkeys with hammers , pliers and bad intent.
The circlip retaining the direct drive coupling , 141-030, had somehow been peened into place by the same flying monkeys.
Once the mangled part in question had finally been removed from the shaft it was on to the woodruff key and some sort of age hardening shmoo that gave off an odor reminiscent of spoiled meat when heated.
Now we are on to the removal of the 3950-14 spindle pulley assembly.
Even after careful stoning of the spindle and somewhat haphazardly measuring the diameter of the spindle to make sure it hadn't put on weight or diameter over the years I proceeded to attempt to remove the spindle pulley assembly.
The inner bushing stayed behind. 400gr sanding strip had to be applied to the spindle in order to remove the remaining bushing.
Now we're on to the spindle back gear.
Keep in mind here that I had a large selection of prying and stabby things and little else for this operation.
You can get behind the gear somewhat with a large flat blade screw driver and rotate, stab, pry, repeat.
Being careful not to pry anywhere near the gear teeth and applying force through only the thickest portions of the headstock casting the bugger finally moved. Eventually this too stopped short of the end of the spindle and a bit more 400gr was used to reduce the diameter of the spindle further.
Somewhere along the way I seemed to have missed the fact that bearings that appeared to be "Completely Knackered" had now taken on the aspect of perfectly serviceable bearings. I'll have to very closely take a look at the assembly to determine what Murphy snuck in on me.
Compared to all of this the removal of the spindle with the chuck side bearing still attached and it's subsequent removal is only the mater of an hour or so of alternating heating , cooling, swearing and tears.

There is one more thing.
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The aforementioned flying monkeys with hammers , pliers and bad intent had in fact caused the random disappearance of two teeth from the M6-68 pinion shaft. Would anyone happen to know the DP and PA of this gear and the rack?
I'm waiting on a few parts from Joel and some monkey repellent from the publishers of the Satanic Bible.
I doubt I'll ever do the tapered roller bearing conversion unless I have to do a bunch of fine facing operations.
Believe me, it is possible to the point of certainty that you can set up a high frequency resonance in the axial plain of the spindle simply by banging the roller bearings back and forth. The noise is rich in harmonics which distinguishes it from ordinary high frequency tool chatter.

All for now as the pizza is here and I have to be ready to repel flying monkeys with hammers , pliers and bad intent at a moment's notice

Dennis
 
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