Vape powerdynamo 277 install

I don't know what 123 did wrong and the thread was never finished. I have one installed and can perhaps answer questions or clarify the difficult to understand instructions.

First thing is the stator plate: carefully route pick-up wires behind the stator plate and ensure they don't get pinched - plate should not have a "squishy feel" and should press solidly against the engine case.

Second: loosen the mount screws and move the external pick-ups outward before attempting to install rotor (adjust to .4mm later).
 
I don't know what 123 did wrong and the thread was never finished. I have one installed and can perhaps answer questions or clarify the difficult to understand instructions.

First thing is the stator plate: carefully route pick-up wires behind the stator plate and ensure they don't get pinched - plate should not have a "squishy feel" and should press solidly against the engine case.

Second: loosen the mount screws and move the external pick-ups outward before attempting to install rotor (adjust to .4mm later).
Thanks for the response. Just finishing up the complete rebuild on the engine. I should preface by saying this a complete custom build. There will be a fully new wiring harness made for wiring to the motogadget m unit. In my experience that doesn’t matter for the ignition and charging systems. There is still 12v of switched power that goes to the ignition, reg/rec, etc just like the stock harness.

I have the stator plate mounted with the wires correctly routed.

Question: I do not use the stock mechanical advance weights, through bar, or points plate as far as I can tell. Correct?

Questions on Timing: I’m assuming the pick ups are specific to the left and right cylinders and each should be measured with the 43.6mm tape to be in the correct position at the TDC compressions stroke?

Next I’ll need help connecting all these wires! The instructions are hard to read
 
Question: I do not use the stock mechanical advance weights, through bar, or points plate as far as I can tell. Correct?

Questions on Timing: I’m assuming the pick ups are specific to the left and right cylinders and each should be measured with the 43.6mm tape to be in the correct position at the TDC compressions stroke?
Correct: all the stuff under the cam covers is now obsolete.

Timing: I just set the rotor 43ish mm on the left Cyl pickup, the right Cyl will fall in line (actually, I think I ended-up less than 43; so be prepared to adjust once strobed). Do Mark your rotor LTDC, RTDC and also (with degree wheel) mark case 15 degrees and 40 degrees BTDC to verify while running. You'll want some reference marks on the case that relates to those.
101_8040.JPG
 
Correct: all the stuff under the cam covers is now obsolete.

Timing: I just set the rotor 43ish mm on the left Cyl pickup, the right Cyl will fall in line (actually, I think I ended-up less than 43; so be prepared to adjust once strobed). Do Mark your rotor LTDC, RTDC and also (with degree wheel) mark case 15 degrees and 40 degrees BTDC to verify while running. You'll want some reference marks on the case that relates to those.
View attachment 233010

Great. Thanks!

I am using the 277 rephased crank and cam from Hugh’s hand built. This vape kit is from revival cycles specific for a 277 rephase and lithium ion battery.

While looking at the stator plate there is a pick up towards the top and one towards the bottom. Assuming the left pickup is the Top one and should be set when the left cyl is in TDC compression stroke?

I attached a picture of the other components that came in the kit besides the plate and stator. What is the little box that I have circled used for? Also I think the silver box is the reg/rec and may look slightly different (without fins) because it is safe for lithium ion batteries. The directions do not make it easy to determine what gets connected to what.
 

Attachments

  • 8C8D12F6-5EBD-4345-8C14-DC9E369E87DF.jpeg
    8C8D12F6-5EBD-4345-8C14-DC9E369E87DF.jpeg
    246.4 KB · Views: 61
  • 265DFBBE-C18B-402E-84F6-B83DA0AB260C.jpeg
    265DFBBE-C18B-402E-84F6-B83DA0AB260C.jpeg
    446.8 KB · Views: 60
Circled component; A relay to control ignition on off using the stock Yamaha on off on +12 volt "kill" switch. As compared to a ground a wire kill switch.
 

Attachments

  • wiring diagram using stock kill switch.gif
    wiring diagram using stock kill switch.gif
    51.3 KB · Views: 48
Assuming the left pickup is the Top one and should be set when the left cyl is in TDC compression stroke?
Yep; top = Left Cyl.

Relay is as shown by Gary. Blue wires from coils are for some type of kill switch (recommended) to ground (earth). As you're using M-Unit, you're probably not using stock kill, but there are various ways to wire a kill circuit with or without that relay.

The regulator/rectifier (instructions should indicate) gets the two black wires from stator, brown is ground (German, et al) and red is charge to battery
 
Circled component; A relay to control ignition on off using the stock Yamaha on off on +12 volt "kill" switch. As compared to a ground a wire kill switch.
Got it. Thanks. That won’t be needed with the motogadget m-unit I believe. The “kill” function turns of 12+ v going out from the auxiliary which provides 12+ to an ignition
 
Grounding the blue/white wire kills the ignition.
Ungrounded it lets sparks happen.
I’ll have to do some more research on that part then. Not sure I fully understand the charging and ignition on the xs650s. So used to Hondas

Essentially on the m unit you can wire a push button to the “kill” - when pushed the button is connected to ground telling the m unit to kill power to whatever is plug into the ignition port. I didn’t realize you need a separate ground for ignition.

I’ll study the wiring diagram a bit more. I’m sure I’ll have many more questions.

Hopefully someone who has had success with the m unit and VAPE can chime in.
 
So, with the VAPE, ignition voltage comes from the PMA Stator - rather than battery on stock XS or Honda. So the M-Unit ignition circuit is not used. The kill circuit needs to ground the coil via blue wire
 
:) There is a bobber on the 2023 Calendar that has a VAPE 277 and an M-Unit installed. They, however, do not "speak" to each other (one Czech, one German):laugh2:
Surely, with a NC relay between the M-Unit ignition output, and the blue "kill" wire on any Vape, it would work just like with a stock XS harness, or any conventional custom harness.
 
So, with the VAPE, ignition voltage comes from the PMA Stator - rather than battery on stock XS or Honda. So the M-Unit ignition circuit is not used. The kill circuit needs to ground the coil via blue wire

Happy new year! New year wiring diagram study.

Got it. So power does not go to the ignition. Looking at this wiring diagram from VAPE the only 12v power from battery goes to the reg/rec. perhaps I’m overthinking it and just wore the ignition circuit separately from the m-unit.

looking at the top diagram: https://www.powerdynamo.biz/wiredias/9vxk.pdf

Charge control: is that the 12v switched power reference for the reg/rec?
 
Charge control: is that the 12v switched power reference for the reg/rec?
The "charge control" at pin 6 (green/red wire) is to be from the reg/rec to an indicator light (optional, voltage unknown). The red at pin 5 is charging current from the reg/rec to the battery (in your case likely 14VDC). There is no switched power to the VAPE ignition or charging.
 
The "charge control" at pin 6 (green/red wire) is to be from the reg/rec to an indicator light (optional, voltage unknown). The red at pin 5 is charging current from the reg/rec to the battery (in your case likely 14VDC). There is no switched power to the VAPE ignition or charging.

So I just contacted Gary Hoos of Hoos racing and he said that for the 277 VAPE kit the BOTTOM(right) pick up is for the LEFT cyl. Perhaps that is what 123 had wrong. Here is what Gary said:

“They way Hugh sets up the crank is he move the right flywheel 3 spline forward making the right side fire 1st the rotates 277 and fires the left. Top is right bottom is left.”
 
Sorry, I don't remember it that way. I'd have to disassemble to see if I switched connectors R to L at advance units (also don't remember doing that).

Good Luck...
 
Back
Top