Newly painted tank

Dom

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So I've had all of my xs tin painted in the original colour scheme, it's been done for several weeks now but the finish still seems sift to me. In inconspicuous areas I can easily push a nail into it, is this normal for 2k paint?
 
And.....there are different clear coats; some softer than others. Example: PPG Concept is very hard (relatively soon) and hard to buff, while House of Kolor "Show Clear" remains kinda soft (forever), buffs easily and scratches easy, but has a deeper, higher gloss.

Check with your painter as to what clear he used and...
 
Temp makes a big difference in curing paint. Can you get it somewhere hot n dry for a while?
Yes I read that was a good idea, I could put a heater on in my garage for a day or two for the headlight bowl and ears then bring the tank and side covers into the house. I've messaged him to ask if it's normal so I'll see what response I get
 
Yes I read that was a good idea, I could put a heater on in my garage for a day or two for the headlight bowl and ears then bring the tank and side covers into the house. I've messaged him to ask if it's normal so I'll see what response I get
Don't get it too hot, like an infrared heater inches away, it can blister. Can't give you an exact temp, but I'd keep it under 120F. Others who live in colder climates may chime in and give you a better answer.
 
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Kind of forgotten, solvent based paints take a while for all the solvent to evaporate. Cover them with poly clear and it takes a LONG time for those solvents to get out. I'm not a painter but a week or two after color coats to spraying a two part clear seems like a sensible approach.
 
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Kind of forgotten, solvent based paints take a while for all the solvent to evaporate. Cover them with poly clear and it takes a LONG time for those solvents to get out. I'm not a painter but a week or two after color coats to spraying a two part clear seems like a sensible approach.
The only problem with that is that there is a "window" of adhesion, usually less than 24 hrs. I've seen clear delamination (recently) on base coat that sat overnight before clearing. If it's a non-metallic you could let it dry forever and scuff it before clearing, no can do with metallic's.
 
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The only problem with that is that there is a "window" of adhesion, usually less than 24 hrs. I've seen clear delamination (recently) on base coat that sat overnight before clearing. If it's a non-metallic you could let it dry forever and scuff it before clearing, no can do with metallic's.
A thin layer of "conventional clear" over the metallic for the scuff coat?
 
A thin layer of "conventional clear" over the metallic for the scuff coat?
As far as I know, if the basecoat dries past the "window" anything you paint over it is going to delaminate without mechanical adhesion. Unless you have piled the basecoat on, it should harden up pretty quick. I have had some clears not harden like I wanted them and is usually operator error, as in using the wrong heat range reducer or hardener or the hardener being old. If you don't paint a lot, old hardener can be a big problem.
 
So I've had all of my xs tin painted in the original colour scheme, it's been done for several weeks now but the finish still seems sift to me. In inconspicuous areas I can easily push a nail into it, is this normal for 2k paint?

What, no photos? 🤷‍♂️ C’mon man we wanna see it! 😃 When I had the tins painted on my old BMW the painter told me, if you put your nose right down to the tank and you can still smell paint fumes, it’s not done curing. It took a long time.
 
The critical period is greater on air dry (thermal dry) than on 2K (thermal cure) On air dry finishes the solvent becomes trapped when the surface "Skins over" If you recoat before all the solvent evaporates the surface will crack open (craze). Some of the early 2K finishes actually suggested a wet on wet process of immediately clearing the basecoat with no more than a 3-5 minute flash time. 46th Georgia is absolutely right about the shelf life. :thumbsup:
 
Right I've just got back from a few days away and I'm now really not sure what to do, to me the gmfinish I'd superbly soft to the point I can easily make a fingernail mark in it. I don't want to be that person but I'm just not happy with how quickly its going to mark. What should I do?
 
Right I've just got back from a few days away and I'm now really not sure what to do, to me the gmfinish I'd superbly soft to the point I can easily make a fingernail mark in it. I don't want to be that person but I'm just not happy with how quickly its going to mark. What should I do?
Can you ask what "type" of paint he used? For instance, one part paints such as acrylic enamel can take weeks to cure properly.... vs. a 2K product that (can) cure in a matter of a few days.
If we knew the product, we could give better answers/suggestions.
 
Can you ask what "type" of paint he used? For instance, one part paints such as acrylic enamel can take weeks to cure properly.... vs. a 2K product that (can) cure in a matter of a few days.
If we knew the product, we could give better answers/suggestions.
He says it's 2K, it's been done a few weeks but he says it may be slower to harden as it has had a lot of lacquer to bury the decals. I'm assured it will harden but I have reservations, it's certainly not hard like the finish on my Triumph. I'm thinking of bringing the bits indoors or heating the garage for a few days.
 
Bringing it indoors to a stable, warm environment sounds like a good plan.
To be honest, it sounds a bit fishy to me. 2K should be cured after a few weeks.
Give a few days of warmth and see what happens I guess. Not much else you can do at this point.
Any idea of the brand name? Check the MSDS and Application specs for cure times?
 
Bringing it indoors to a stable, warm environment sounds like a good plan.
To be honest, it sounds a bit fishy to me. 2K should be cured after a few weeks.
Give a few days of warmth and see what happens I guess. Not much else you can do at this point.
Any idea of the brand name? Check the MSDS and Application specs for cure times?
I think that's all I can do, he's well known for his work among the restoration world in the UK, Ultimate Bike Paint is his business if you fancy a browse.
 
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