What have you done to your XS today?

Whew! got it......was very close to being drilled/ez outed, but a heat gun, PB Blaster and some careful screwdriving succeeded
View attachment 240666
Was torn betwix rebuilding these '75 carbs and sticking a set of '79 carbs on; shall proceed with the '75's for now.........
Hmmm.Heat gunnin’ those little devils.My wife’s right.I haven’t got all the answers.lol.Great tip.👍
 
Whew! got it......was very close to being drilled/ez outed, but a heat gun, PB Blaster and some careful screwdriving succeeded
View attachment 240666
Was torn betwix rebuilding these '75 carbs and sticking a set of '79 carbs on; shall proceed with the '75's for now.........
Good practice for you bbbBuddy..................
 
Hmmm.Heat gunnin’ those little devils.My wife’s right.I haven’t got all the answers.lol.Great tip.👍

Good practice for you bbbBuddy..................
:lmao:

Well, I thought it was done....nope. After the ultrasonic cooking, went to put a new #45 in and the threads in the bowl were buggered:eek:.

Fortunately, a 5mm x .9 .8 tap matched up (Mikuni has been known to use weird threads in places) and cleaned it up. Went together - finally - like new.:thumbsup:
 
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:lmao:

Well, I thought it was done....nope. After the ultrasonic cooking, went to put a new #45 in and the threads in the bowl were buggered:eek:.

Fortunately, a 5mm x .9 tap matched up (Mikuni has been known to use weird threads in places) and cleaned it up. Went together - finally - like new.:thumbsup:
Foot note?

When I encounter a stuck jet; solidly place the body on a rigid hard surface, vise? Correct screwdriver in the slot (no torque yet) give a it a sharp (but not stupid hard) rap with a small hammer. Seems to shock the interface and help break the thread loose.

I struggle with giving these types of hints; don't want to be the know it all, smart-ass but also hate to be holding back on a trick that might help someone. :unsure:
JP has truly been around the block a time or two.
 
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Correct screwdriver in the slot (no torque yet) give a it a sharp (but not stupid hard) rap with a small hammer. Seems to shock the interface and help break the thread loose.
Alt Rotor plate has 3mm x .7 screws. If you don't do that, you're jus' pissin' in the wind, they'll strip every time. I'm 100% with ya on the hammer smacks. The trick with 'em... the jets... you name it, is knowing how hard is hard enough. That's where experience plays in. And when it comes to stripping screws, experience is a cruel mistress. :doh:
 
Yeah, I think I've posted pics before and admitted to being a "hammer mechanic"....guys flip-out when I try to convince them to smack drain plugs, Honda tappet caps, etc. directly with a ballpeen hammer (not a plastic one). The exception is the countersunk screw on Honda speedo drives; breaks the case - it requires special handling and anti-seize on reassembly.

Ah, "spearience"...........:redface:
 
The tach gauge face on my French Blue '76 came unscrewed on my last ride, so I pulled the gauge off and I said, "Mike, you've rebuilt variable frequency drives and saved an Allen-Bradley Panelview 1000 by replacing a fluorescent tube the diameter of a pencil lead, you can handle a couple of screws in a tachometer." Well 8 hours later and I'm still not done, as any and all rubber parts involved crumbled like saltine crackers. Off to the hardware store(s) tomorrow to find what's available to fabricate reasonable facsimiles to get this tach back together and on the bike. The good news is it's going to be cold and rainy the next several days here in central NY state. That, plus I made the repair inside the tach and got it back together where it looks decent, plus I replaced the neutral indicator lamp. It's the grommets and vibration dampers in the external housing that turned to dust.
 
My tacho stopped working so I took it apart and the drive mechanism that seats into the magnet had broken/pulled out of the housing.
I put it back together with a few drops of Loctite super glue after cleaning out all the grit and cleaned the face plate and lens then reassembled.
Before I fitted it on the bike I connected it to the cable and started her up.
The whole tacho was rotating*!
Must have got some Loctite onto the drive so now I need a new cable cause it snapped when I grabbed the tacho to stop it spinning.
I've got an old tacho with a black face plate that I can remove and replace it with the green face plate off my now glued together one.
 
Lovely day today, sun is shining and I'm not working.
Down the shop to get the bike out for a shakedown ride.
Key in, iggy on choke out and press starter.......... Put Put duff!
Battery is flat as a witches tit!

No idea of the age of the battery so ordered one of these from Halfords:
BAT 1.PNG


A bit spendy but its in stock and I can pick it up today.... Hooray!
May still get a ride today, but need to check charging system of bike.
I feel like I'm doomed not to ride this bike.
Ads.:devil:
ACBUILD
 
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OK new battery fitted and she fires up first press of the starter; let her warm up.
Switched off and put old battery on charge.
Filled tank to brim with fresh Shell V-Power E5 and wheeled out the shop.
Helmet on. Fired up again first press and nice idle. Took her for a couple of runs around the block, and all seems good.
She runs beautifully with smooth slick gear changes thanks to Cognito - Moto rear sets; well worth the money.
Also the Cognito rear hub with 33T sprocket is a revelation, compared to the 40T old wheelie wanger I had before.

Mind games make me think there is a charging problem; so stopped at a mates car garage workshop.
He had a little device to plug on the battery contacts; shows new battery has low power and system not charging.

Back to the shop and start investigating what the charging issue is.

Apart from that I'm really pleased as she runs & rides so much better than before.

Ads.:devil:
ACBUILD
 
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Did you at any moment experience a euphoric wave of 'At last!'

Reading your post made me at least think that.
Oh yes Raymond, I certainly did. It’s brilliant, and I’m proud of what I have achieved. Just need to sort the charging out for a 100% euphoria feel.
 
OK new battery fitted and she fires up first press of the starter; let her warm up.
Switched off and put old battery on charge.
Filled tank to brim with fresh Shell V-Power E5 and wheeled out the shop.
Helmet on. Fired up again first press and nice idle. Took her for a couple of runs around the block, and all seems good.
She runs beautifully with smooth slick gear changes thanks to Cognito - Moto rear sets; well worth the money.
Also the Cognito rear hub with 33T sprocket is a revelation, compared to the 40T old wheelie wanger I had before.

Mind games make me think there is a charging problem; so stopped at a mates car garage workshop.
He had a little device to plug on the battery contacts; shows new battery has low power and system not charging.

Back to the shop and start investigating what the charging issue is.

Apart from that I'm really pleased as she runs & rides so much better than before.

Ads.:devil:
At least you know you have a problem and where to look. Beats being miles away from home and...click,click... Good luck my friend.
 
So the charging issue.
First removed the gear linkage to access the stator & rotor.
Cleaned up the slip rings with fine wet & dry, and wiped down to clean off.
IMG_0093.JPEG

Next test reading with multi meter across the two slip rings = 5.3 - 5.4 ohms
(Meter set @ 200 ohms for all tests).
IMG_0098.JPEG

I understand 5 .0 - 7.0 ohms is good?

Then each slip ring to center nut; both reading OL.
IMG_0099.JPEG
IMG_0100.JPEG

I understand this is OK?

Next is the stator.
Testing each white (phase) wire from stator to each other.
Readings were 0.4 ohms; this seems low to considering YouTube videos watched.
Should it be 0.8 - 1.0 ohms?
IMG_0102.JPEG


I also tested each white wire pin to the stator housing = OL reading.

Any idea what the issue is. And what should I do next?
Cheers
Ads.
ACBUILD
 
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So the charging issue.
First removed the gear linkage to access the stator & rotor.
Cleaned up the slip rings with fine wet & dry, and wiped down to clean off.
View attachment 240901
Next test reading with multi meter across the two slip rings = 5.3 - 5.4 ohms
(Meter set @ 200 ohms for all tests).
View attachment 240902
I understand 5 .0 - 7.0 ohms is good?

Then each slip ring to center nut; both reading OL.
View attachment 240903 View attachment 240904
I understand this is OK?

Next is the stator.
Testing each white (phase) wire from stator to each other.
Readings were 0.4 ohms; this seems low to considering YouTube videos watched.
Should it be 0.8 - 1.0 ohms?
View attachment 240905

I also tested each white wire pin to the stator housing = OL reading.

Any idea what the issue is. And what should I do next?
Cheers
Ads.
5.3Ω ring to ring is good.

Open, ring to ground should be infinity, but you need to test that on a higher scale. A 300Ω short to ground (for instance) will not show up on the 200Ω range you're set on. Try it again on the 2M (2 mega-ohms) range.

Maybe these videos I made will help point us in the right direction.



 
5.3Ω ring to ring is good.

Open, ring to ground should be infinity, but you need to test that on a higher scale. A 300Ω short to ground (for instance) will not show up on the 200Ω range you're set on. Try it again on the 2M (2 mega-ohms) range.

Maybe these videos I made will help point us in the right direction.



OK cheers Jim. I will try again over the weekend.
Ads.:)
 
Able to take traditional Easter ride a couple weeks late but well worth the wait.Charging system repaired and working as it should.Jims rotor work is superb. I appreciate you all.Now onto some Sidecar updating.
 

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