Getting Her Going

You have the crimped down lip, I see it in your pics. You have to get something under that and pry it open. Many of us use a paint can opener .....

PaintCanOpener2.jpg


PaintCanOpener3.jpg


I follow this with some smooth flat nose pliers to bend the lip open more .....

SmoothFlatNosePliers3.jpg


SmoothFlatNosePliers4.jpg


You needn't go all the way around, only a little over half way, but still a rather tedious process, lol.
 
Skull, Thanks for posting, only mine does not have a raised lip so there's nothing to pry on. I did try briefly but couldn't get purchase with any tool.

Thing is, your gauges are the exactly the same as the ones in post #1 in the link showing the how to. Gauges from 76-83 are exactly the same

Getting the first purchase can be difficult. The temptation to reef it, when you do, is hard to resit because it is o difficult, (that why i bent the screw driver so i could get an edge, using it at an angle and one corner, to grab the lip), but once a small lift has been done it become easier to get the next. As explained in my tutorial, when the edge has been lifted it is imperative, from then on, small increments of lift at a time and it may take several circumferences to get the lip prized open enough to get the cup out.

The same for the return process when putting it back together.................All explained in the link.

My big difference to 5Twins way of doing it, was not to use a clamp on the outside of the bezel. I found i had to lever the bezel edge out pat the lip of the cup on the last circumference, as it would spring back some, because it was pulling the bezel lip in around the edges a i was pushing it out to stretch it some more. My big concern was damage to the bezel paint as the ones i did it to were in excellent condition

First one i was finding my way and learning the capabilities of the stress's the bezel and housing could take.

If your heavy handed or lack dexterity then it may not be the best way for you to do it. As for the time it takes the first one i did took me a while but the second was quite fast, not a lot longer than 5 mim and definatly no more than 10. And less for the installation as well. No messy glue or worry if the housing will break in the future. Lot of stress on the join due to vibration. We all have different capabilities so no judgment, do what you comfortable with.
 
So I'm that guy that has one "laying around".
Measured at d=2.17mm 5mm long
View attachment 243707
Pitch, oh man my eyes ain't good for this but .35 too fine .5 was too coarse so .4 ?
maybe .45 is a standard.
With an SAE gauge 60 TPI was the closest so that's pretty near the .45
meanwhile I lost the damned screw. :banghead: o_O
EDIT: Found the screw! now just got to get it back where it belongs in TSOIR

View attachment 243699
Ordered this. Waited a week until it arrived today. Looks like size is correct. Went in 2 turns and then wouldn't go any farther so I suppose the thread is incorrect. Just to be sure I took out the screw from the other side and inserted it into this hole & it fit so I know that I have not screwed up the threads. This is getting really old.
 
Chances are they have something like this at your local hardware store. Might help you find the correct size.image.jpg
 
sChances are they have something like this at your local hardware store. Might help you find the correct size.View attachment 244407
Wingman, I do have one of those but the screw from the tach does not match any of the sizes on it. I have measured the diameter as 2.2mm. The chart you show does not have this size either. The 2.5mm screw I just received seems like it will fit but it only goes 2 turns in & won't turn any more. I might try a 2mm screw if I had one but I don't and so far I've not found anything at my local hardware stores smaller than 3mm. I'm still hoping to find a screw that fits but if I don't find it soon I will have to drill the hole bigger and tap it but I'm leery of doing that for a couple of reasons: first, I don't have a drill press, The smallest tap I have is 3mm. I have 2 of those: .50 & .60 but the problem is that I'm not able to tell the pitch of the 3mm screws I've found so I can't be certain that when I drill & tap that my screws will fit the new hole. I suppose I could drill & tap into a test piece but I'm losing patience with the whole damn thing.

I still have to do this procedure on the speedo on which I see zero screws. I don't know if they might still be in there or not. I can't see them and they don't rattle when I shake it so they're probably gone. If they are in there, great! But if not I'll have to find some way to secure the speedo plate also.
 
The smallest tap I have is 3mm. I have 2 of those: .50 & .60 but the problem is that I'm not able to tell the pitch of the 3mm screws I've found so I can't be certain that when I drill & tap that my screws will fit the new hole.

What about getting a tap for the 2.5 you just received and replace both screws? Probably wouldn’t even need to drill it.
 
What could go wrong??
You're talking to a guy that just spend two hours drilling out then retapping an M5 x30mm screw that was corroded into an aluminum bracket, it snapped off while trying to adjust the bracket, stayed centered in the bolt pretty good but it was tough stainless. backed up the aluminum thread with a nut, done.
That tach frame is thin, wont take much with some down pressure to form a thread that matches the screw good enough to hold a tach face with a bit of thread locker, shrug. Sometimes you do and move on.
 
Lol, i don't doubt your skill levels when it come to working and fixing hard problems concerning motorcycles or a lot of things, I do question the skill level of someone who can't prize a bezel lip loose.

What could go wrong..............the screw head burs before it seats. An easy thing to do when trying to.............well you know i don't have to explain
 
That screw you bought came with some sort of thread lock (nylock thread patch) ALREADY on the thread, that could be the "stop" you feel. :unsure:
 
Back
Top