First XS650 Build, What to Look For

- - - Tomorrow night I'll take a hacksaw to those tabs and file them down flush with the fork legs as there won't be a front fender or brake (cue the advice from old timers saying don't do it lol) - - -

Hi SlowMaintenance,
before you get medieval on your forks, you could check the list's want ads for a set that's already been lug-lopped and being sold by someone who has already experienced a no-front-brake near-death moment.
That way you can easily swap back. If you survive.
 
Ok guys, little more progress tonight though unfortunately not as much as I'd hoped for. Drained the oil out which as expected was jet black.

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Also took the carbs off to make room for the engine to come out, quick pic I took to remember how the throttle cable hooks up to the carb set.

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Lastly, here's a shot of the carbs themselves. Didn't have time to clean them off or check what they are as I had to run early. Will get into that tomorrow night.

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I went ahead and loosened all of the engine mount bolts. Well, the top, rear and front. It looked like there might be one underneath so I decided to put the tools down and hit the manual instead. Exercising my patience but wanted to keep you guys posted on what's taking place. Tomorrow night, hoping to get that engine out solo!
 
I left the bottom bolt for last when I did mine. I also put a jack underneath, being very careful where the engine met the jack. Once I pulled the bottom bolt, the engine rocked forward a little, but couldn't go anywhere because of the frame. I was able to lift the engine out on my own (a little tricky) but be prepared, it's kinda heavy.
Good luck.
 
I just pulled my engine yesterday. I also took out all the bolts except the bottom one and put a jack under it. It will come out the right side. I manhandled it; an easier way would be to tip the frame on its side, depending on how much you've stripped off the bike so far, then lift the frame off.

Good luck!
 
Perfect, going to do this tonight at like 1am when I get outta work. Can't wait to get that engine out and begin teardown.

Speaking of that though, I'm having a really difficult time getting the left side cover off. I removed the hex bolts and try to wiggle it off but it seems like it's stuck down at the bottom where the small cover protrusion that looks like a bolt is. Is there something I'm missing or something else that needs to come off? Can't tell if it's that or just that the PO used some type of sealer in there for no reason.
 
Also going to be ordering the gasket set, oil seal set, and hardware set tonight from this german ebay seller recommended earlier in the thread by 5twins. Only one I'm unsure about is the hardware, seems worthwhile to just get it now and save myself the headache of the inevitable stripped bolt down the line. Anyone tried this set though to confirm it's of a decent quality?

Gaskets: http://www.ebay.com/itm/281752454286

Oil Seals: http://www.ebay.com/itm/252066388202

Engine Hardware: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251977702570
 
- - - Anyone tried this set though to confirm it's of a decent quality? /QUOTE]

Hi SlowMaintenence,
I've never seen a negative post about the kenosha kid's stuff.
That said, stainless steel fasteners are not as strong as good quality steel fasteners.
AND stainless nuts on stainless bolts do tend to gall if they are assembled without their threads being lubricated.
OTOH, stainless fasteners look good, don't rust and will work OK of they ain't overtorqued on assembly.
Mr Bodger's main fastener problem has been stripping out threaded holes in aluminum castings.
I'd recommend getting a helicoil or other thread insert kit for the M6 and M8 threads as insurance.
 
Not sure if you're recommending the set or saying to steer clear lol.

Also, potential noob question here but who's Mr. Bodger?

The look is pretty much secondary to me at this point. Was only getting them to make sure I had spares if anything stripes out during disassembly. If there is a better OEM kit to purchase, I'm fine with that option as well.
 
Not sure if you're recommending the set or saying to steer clear lol.

Also, potential noob question here but who's Mr. Bodger?

The look is pretty much secondary to me at this point. Was only getting them to make sure I had spares if anything stripes out during disassembly. If there is a better OEM kit to purchase, I'm fine with that option as well.

Hi SlowMaintenence,
nah, just sayin' stainless fasteners ain't quite as strong as Yamaha's stock fasteners, is all.
Lube them on assembly and use a torque wrench and they'll be fine.
And of course, they won't rust.
Mr. Bodger is one of my alternate personalities. Along with Mr. Stupid. Some list members reckon that at times my posts are written by Mr. Smartass.
And yes, I do believe that stock fastener kits are available, perhaps someone can post a link?
 
Your Local Hardware store is a good place for replacement bolts. Lowes has a good selection, TSC is another.
Leo
 
You shouldn't encounter too many instances, if any, of stripping the bolts, screws, and nuts. What is more likely is stripping the threaded holes in the alloy cases. Apply anti-seize to all the fasteners and use an in/lb torque wrench on the side cover Allens. They're only M6 fasteners so don't get torqued really tight (about 5 to 7 ft/lbs, I use 80 in/lbs) but you do want them all the same. This is especially important on the covers that hold oil in. Equal torque on all the fasteners is what seals best.

What's probably making that left cover stick are its locating dowels. They're just plain steel and can get all rusted up. I work the covers off with a big rubber mallet. Once off, clean the dowels and grease or anti-seize them .....

LfCoverLocatingDowels.jpg
 
Excellent tips all around, thanks for the help in getting that cover off, it was definitely stuck on that lower dowel and took some tapping with a BFH to remove it. Here's a few pics to update the progress.

Top motor mount off (god this thing is ugly, heavy and seemingly overkill)
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Front motor mount, these bolts look pretty decrepit, not sure if it'll clean off or if I should just replace em.
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Finally found out what lies beneath and it's an oily mess
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Keeping track of the parts that come off, here's hoping it all makes sense when I reassemble haha
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Two shots of the oil filter which oddly enough, appear to be in excellent shape
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Rear wheel off
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Rear drum outside
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And inside. Any tips on what to clean these with? I'll probably replace the pads for safetys sake
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Looks like PO welded the swingarm in place for some reason. He also welded those ugly seat springs to the frame and welded a flat bar to hold on the fender. Thank god all of this is coming off
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Swingarm removed, first bike with a center stand and boy is that thing handy
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36mm, thanks Yamaha, cause who doesn't have a 36mm wrench on hand? (everyone)
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Right side cover removed
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Close up of clutch plates which appear to be in deplorable condition. All told I haven't opened the basket yet so who knows until I see the plates inside
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As she sits now, waiting for my return tonight after work. Plenty of plastic baggies, tape and sharpies on hand for the labeling process. No lost pieces!
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Wish me luck
 
It seems we are at about the same point in our builds. However, yours may be a bit more rough than mine but my alloted time for the project is kinda slim, I look forward to checking back and maybe getting some ideas.

Oh, and those rough bolts, motor mounts, foot controls, etc. Soak them in some vinegar for a couple of days. Then rinse with water and neutralize the acid by soaking again in water and baking soda for about 15 min. Rinse again, dry and coat with something to protect it.

That is, unless you want to sand, paint, or whatever else. For me it was just less time consuming to let it soak. The rust will just fall right off with a light brushing after a few days of soaking.


Good luck!
 
It seems we are at about the same point in our builds. However, yours may be a bit more rough than mine but my alloted time for the project is kinda slim, I look forward to checking back and maybe getting some ideas.

Oh, and those rough bolts, motor mounts, foot controls, etc. Soak them in some vinegar for a couple of days. Then rinse with water and neutralize the acid by soaking again in water and baking soda for about 15 min. Rinse again, dry and coat with something to protect it.

That is, unless you want to sand, paint, or whatever else. For me it was just less time consuming to let it soak. The rust will just fall right off with a light brushing after a few days of soaking.


Good luck!

Good call! Will definitely do that. Actually if you look at 12 o clock atop the engine head I've got some white vinegar hanging out for just such an occasion. I'll begin the vinegar bath tonight while the parts are off.

Paint is on the wish list eventually, but part of me wonders if I'll ever get there haha. I've always been more interested in riding them than making them shine.
 
Good call! Will definitely do that. Actually if you look at 12 o clock atop the engine head I've got some white vinegar hanging out for just such an occasion. I'll begin the vinegar bath tonight while the parts are off.

Paint is on the wish list eventually, but part of me wonders if I'll ever get there haha. I've always been more interested in riding them than making them shine.
Paint was on my list for those parts until I saw how good they looked. I think you may be swayed in that direction as well [emoji6]
 
Raw steel everywhere!

That way everyone will think it's a POS and not steal it when I leave it out at night. I have no garage. Not painting the bike is like free insurance haha
 
The way you found the motor mount bolts is typical. Since that part doesn't show, I just hit them with a wire wheel and they clean right up. Don't do the heads though. That will knock off what little plating remains and they'll rust up fast. When re-assembling, coat the entire length of the bolts with anti-seize, not just the threaded ends. That will keep future corrosion at bay.

Your clutch plates look normal. That brown residue you see is the remnants of the bonding agent or glue used to attach the friction material to the steel plates. Measuring them for thickness once you pull them out will tell you if they're good or not. Most I run across are still OK.

Get a can of that spray brake cleaner from the auto parts store for cleaning up the inside of your brake plate and hub. You can also wire wheel the drum surface in the hub to clean the rust off it. The way the adjuster is cranked down so tight on the brake rod could indicate worn shoes, but it could also just be a case of the brake arm being "clocked" wrong on the splined shaft. You're going to want to pull the brake plate all apart and service it. Here's a write-up .....

http://www.xs650.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25632
 
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