1980 new project teardown

Thanks Fred,

I don't want to remove the engine from the frame at this time. So I can't do either suggested, but I will go at it with degreaser and kerosene.

Thanks on the tank oil method. Never thought of that.
 
Ok, I cleaned it pretty damn well.

That being said, I can now see how much help the engine needs as far as cosmetics. I think I'm going to pull the engine. I watched carbons (thank you) engine removal video. Doesn't look too difficult. Only thing that worries me is the fact that it is running great. By removing it, am I risking it having issues when I put it back in? Anything specific to look out for? And yes I do have an extra set of hands to help me get it out.

About 95% of the electrical is removed I'll remove the rest, power wash the frame, paint it, Clean engine, and paint it etc. Etc.

Edit: Forgot to ask about the oil cooler. This isn't stock is it? Easy as removing hoses once oil is drained?
 
Last edited:
uploadfromtaptalk1444718714141.jpg

Pardon the mess, I have since organized all the parts on the bench [emoji106]
 
The oil cooler is not stock. It appears that the oil line to the head was cut and the hoses hooked to this oil line. If done properly that works ok but is not the best way. This way only cools a small portion of the oil. Just the oil to the head.
There are other ways of plumbing an oil cooler in that cools all the oil.
Search the site for "oil coolers". This should show yu the options.
Leo
 
The oil cooler is not stock. It appears that the oil line to the head was cut and the hoses hooked to this oil line. If done properly that works ok but is not the best way. This way only cools a small portion of the oil. Just the oil to the head.
There are other ways of plumbing an oil cooler in that cools all the oil.
Search the site for "oil coolers". This should show yu the options.
Leo
Thanks Leo,

The way it is plumbed is the line running from the lower to the head was cut. A line runs from the lower through the cooler and to the upper. I did look through some threads and saw better ways to run it but for now I'll stick with what I have.

A little update, pulled the engine and started degreasing and cleaning. Don't have a power washer unfortunately bur I did a decent initial clean up. I bought aerosol aircraft remover for the engine paint and it got about half of it off. So I bought liquid gel stripper to paint on haven't gotten that far yet. Tried to start polishing the side covers but I think I need to re strip the side covers as well since the aircraft remover didn't work well.

After I strip, can I start with a scotch Brite pad then go to wet paper, 400, 600, 1000, 1200, then buffing wheel? It seems so pitted and rough it took me a half hour to get a 2 inch circle looking decent as a test.

Thanks,
Drew
 
For heavy corrosion and pitting, use 320 to start. You'll be there forever with 400 (oh, you figured that out already, lol). I use 320 dry then 400 wet, then start buffing with the coarse black emery compound. It will remove 400 scratch marks so no need to sand finer.

Actually, I don't sand that much any more. I use 2" Roloc discs in a die grinder. I use fine (blue) and very fine (gray). Anything coarser readily removes the aluminum. A medium disc is good for removing deep scratches and gouges.
 
For heavy corrosion and pitting, use 320 to start. You'll be there forever with 400 (oh, you figured that out already, lol). I use 320 dry then 400 wet, then start buffing with the coarse black emery compound. It will remove 400 scratch marks so no need to sand finer.

Actually, I don't sand that much any more. I use 2" Roloc discs in a die grinder. I use fine (blue) and very fine (gray). Anything coarser readily removes the aluminum. A medium disc is good for removing deep scratches and gouges.
Thanks 5twin, you may have just saved me loads of time!
 
Well guys slow progress the last week because I had some hiccups.

I used aircraft remover by rustolleum in an aerosol can. It got about half the paint off. Don't recommend using this stuff at all.

Went back and got some gel stripper, that worked much better. If I had a pressure washer it woulda came all off I think.

So I realized I needed some sort of media blasting. I whipped up a diy soda blaster with stuff I had in the garage. It worked beyond my expectations.

After getting the motor back under the shop lights it made me realize I missed some spots which I think I'll have another go at. Unless y'all thunk I don't have to before priming.

So my next step is to go at it with some solvent then prime after that. Is there another step I'm missing? I'll look through the painting threads on here after I submit, that may answer that question.

I've attached some pics of what it looks like now. I do plan on polishing the valve, stator, and side covers before painting. My plan is it do the black with sanded fins look.

Thanks for looking


uploadfromtaptalk1445902528129.jpguploadfromtaptalk1445902548519.jpguploadfromtaptalk1445902569072.jpguploadfromtaptalk1445902595761.jpguploadfromtaptalk1445902630639.jpg
 
Back
Top