Doing install; Hugh's Handbuilt CDI complete kit

I am very exited about this setup and in process of install. I chose this kit w/ confidence and and what I consider enough research w/ my intensions. That being said, if you plan on purchasing same kit I would advise you to ask for the length of the wires coming off of the stator to be exetended another foot. I'm not implying that Hugh went cheap on wire. He was fair on what it comes with ( approx. 18"). If they are already built you wouldn't be able to make this request. If he builds these to order then it might be possible. Of coarse you should be expected to pay for this extra wire. I certainly would. Mainly because I spent a hr. adding to it. I ran the wiring up along side the frame right behind the carbs and it ended at the tube where the tank sits. I clearly am not bitter that the wiring isn't where I would have liked it to have been but it would be unlikely to place any of the pieces
(CDI unit, rectifier) to be sensibly mounted. Under the tank or seat couldn't be done. I will let you know how install went and it's abilty. Of coarse reliabilty will be based on time. I would hope this doesn't detere anyone from going this route.

I have one of these systems, but I haven't installed it yet. I am interested to see how your install goes.

One thing I did to find a spot for the actual CDI unit itself. This is just a recomendation. On the backside of the stear tube; neck there's that hollow between the gussets that might have a tab that originally was a mount for flasher? Anyway if you take that out it's a good spot for it. It will be loose but Hugh says it doesn't need padding to avoid vibration. I'm just padding it to hold in place. There's hole going thru those gussets that you can run a bolt thru to hold it also. The regulator/ rectifier which also has those 2 holes for mounting could go where the stock coils use to mount perfectly but when I asked Hugh what his thought on that was is that it might be to hot there because of engine heat right below and not enough airflow. Do as you may kind of deal. I had planned on doing a video of this app or even pics but the manual he gives does the job. Even w/ that I still have already contacted him, obviously. Also I'm using the Sparx brand capacitor on his advise. Especially if you're running w/out a battery. I've been keeping everything together that I remove to see if there is going to be any weight difference. Kit weighs 11 lbs. If you are keeping your battery that's right there is pretty close to an even swap. The battery box w/ all that's attached isn't exactly light. Of coarse that goes w/ the battery.

Anyone can post a picture about the result installed hughs cdi system?
Wanna get one but a little afraid

Any or progress? I had a shop do the install on mine. Bike runs as advertised, however it does not charge the battery. So it does indeed run without the need for battery, as I found out yesterday on an all day ride, upon the last hour towards home none of the lights were functioning. Voltimeter confirms that there is output and revving engine above 3,000 rpms more than 13v can anyone help? The battery charges fine overnight on a tender which is what I've been doing. My bike is a 1977 XS650D.

Art

A good charging system will generate 14 to 14.3 volts when the rpm is above 2500 rpm. If your PMA is not doing that, then you have a problem. You never need a battery tender, with a proper charging system, such as the stock alternator system.
The PMA parts sold by Mikesxs,TCbros and HHB are low quality Chinese parts, so they fail often, and are a waste of money.

I hope you kept your stock alternator, which are high quality Japanese parts..

What brands do you recommend for aftermarket ignition/charging system

Stock alternator is best for these bikes. Pamco ignition is an excellent ignition.

artpongs said:

What brands do you recommend for aftermarket ignition/charging system

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I been running the Powerdynmo system for over 12years they have been in business for over 19 years. www.powerdynamo.biz , they also make one for a 270 and 277 rephrase.

Yeah this is discouraging brand new out of the box and it doesn't work. Just retested, it barely gets to 13v revving to 4000rpm. Do you think it could be the original R/R supplied with first batch of CDI kits to be the problem? If I got it replaced with the new one would that correct the issue?

artpongs said:

Yeah this is discouraging brand new out of the box and it doesn't work. Just retested, it barely gets to 13v revving to 4000rpm. Do you think it could be the original R/R supplied with first batch of CDI kits to be the problem? If I got it replaced with the new one would that correct the issue?

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Get with Hugh , he'll take care of you.

Charging: I pieced a system together. Hugh posted this on a forum years ago. http://www.chopcult.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6604
I did this exactly. Basically tells you how he pieces systems together. Yes they are cheap, shit Chinese junk. Get them cheap as possible and know what to replace when they do go bad. Ignition: I have a few Pamco systems. They work great! Although, this time I decided to try a Boyer Bransden for the ignition. I just feel it's a easier install. I have yet to fire this system. Waiting on my gas tank. I don't know how some of these people sleep at night charging what they do for items. Guess that's the Murican way. Don't have money, phuk someone that does. Haha!

Agree with Hooser, Hugh’s a stand up guy and will work with ya. If you’re running the old reg then yes, highly suspect. Did you buy it awhile ago or from another person? The new reg has worked great for me, been quite weary of a failure but getting a consistent 14.2 at RMP without issue. 3k KMs since install.

I bought it awhile ago from another person that didn’t go through with his project so it was new in box never installed or used.

Put your stock alternator back on your engine. Buy a 3 phase rectifier from Windy Nation and a nos VR-115 regulator. That will have your 1977 charging at 14.2 volts.

https://www.windynation.com/Rectifier/35-Amp-3-Phase-Bridge-Rectifier/-/218?p=YzE9MjA=

The stock alternator system, may allow you to change over to an LED headlight, which is becoming quite popular to do. PMA systems are almost certain to over heat if an LED headlight is used.

Does or has anyone done a side analysis on the new MOSFET reg included in Hugh’s recent system? Just curious if anyone has researched that unit’s dissipation capabilities and potential lifespan. I admit total ignorance aside from how it looks lol.

Before we jump the gun on returning to stock recommendations, let me elaborate. I only ask as this forum sees a never ending spree in issues with these TC/Mike’s/HHB “packages”. Hugh’s done a great thing in swapping out that troublesome part. As time passes, these bikes will change hands and become the dreaded PO story we’ve all read. Original charging parts will no longer be there for swaps. In the case of a CDI system - we’re talking about a fairly decent cost to “undo” -> PAMCO & Charge components or OEM TCI package.

There’s some value in better understanding that MOSFET & what it can/cannot handle (for the LED infatuated) and start pushing folks off those packaged regs. that come here with issues.

Just my 2 un-knowledgeable & non-proactive cents. Totally understand the stock’s value but it’s not always in the cards and even less so as time goes by.

I just don't think a new charging system you paid hundreds of dollars for should need fixing so soon. Yes, apparently there are now better high quality reg/rec units available but they cost like $100 to $200. I can replace the same items on my stock system for $40 or less (and I have). If I had to do a PMA, I think I would put it together from used high quality Jap parts like people used to do before the kits came along. I'm sure it would be better, cheaper too.

I see no reason to use a PMA on these bikes. The overall design of a PMA system has the alternator generating full output all the time (proportional to rpm). Why would anyone want to generate 200 watts, as they drive down the road, but only consume say 80 to 120 watts? The stock alternator system is so simple. If you need to consume 120 watts, the stock system only generates 120 watts. No extra wasted energy.

Its not as simple as saying use a MOSFET. The shunt type regulators, that have been in use for a very long time, were made in a
SCR type and in a MOSFET type. HHB has sold thousands of those Chinese shunt type regulators, and many of them fail early or never work from new, as artpongs is finding out.

I see HHB is now selling an expensive "MOSFET" regulator. Its still Chinese. Is it a shunt type or is it a series type???
If its a series type, that uses the switching mode design, then it may not burn up. Only time will tell if they will last or not.
The switching, series type, is rapidly opening the path from the stator to the load, in an on/off fashion. During the time that the path is open, I suspect the stator voltage is spiking high. That would stress the stator windings, and I wonder what that does to the life of the stator?

PMA systems are just too expensive, when the stock alternator system works extremely well, using a $9.99 USD rectifier and
an automotive nos regulator for around $35 or $40 USD.

As for the idea that stock charging system stators and rotors will be unavailable, shops such as Custom Rewind can rewind your stock parts.