Mikes xs coil does not fit.

Booie

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Hi guys, I just received an xs charge electronic ignition basic kit from mikes xs. The coil they gave me does not bolt on to the existing brackets. Am I missing something or do I just need to fabricate my own bracket?
 
Does it look like this one? If so then yes, get fabbing...
coil.JPG
 
...yup... break out the scrap metal... drill.. hacksaw.. aaah.. the fun you'll have... then.. solder ends on all the connections... ooh.. it just doesn't get any more fun....
 
I made a plate from aluminum and mounted it behind the mount for the horn.
 
That thread was very helpful. There are two red/white wires from the old coils. Obviously I only need to use one. Is it really necessary to fuse that line?

It’s not absolutely necessary. It’s not in the wiring diagram provided by Pamco. I did it because Pamco Pete suggested it on another thread as an extra layer of protection for the ignition.
 
Both those R/W wires "Y" off the same R/W wire in the harness. You can use both if you like, one to power the coil, the other to power the ignition unit. Pamcopete likes to see the power wire to the coil fused. Both those R/W wires are already fused by the main 20A fuse on the Standard models or the 10A ignition fuse on the Special models. Pete likes to see a 7.5A fuse on the coil power wire.
 
I have a three way bullet connector. I was going to just connect red wire from ignition unit to the r/w from switch and one terminal of coil. This should be ok, right?
Also, I made the plate to hold my coil out of aluminum. The coil bolts aso go through the original coil bracket and the washer and nuts are against the steel. Is that ok for grounding?
Thanks
 
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I don't think your new coil needs grounding so that should be fine. There was originally a ground wire from the harness to one of the coil mounting bolts. I would just make sure that still attaches at the frame, not up on your aluminum mount. Your wiring sounds OK too.
 
I don't think your new coil needs grounding so that should be fine. There was originally a ground wire from the harness to one of the coil mounting bolts. I would just make sure that still attaches at the frame, not up on your aluminum mount. Your wiring sounds OK too.
Thank you. Yes I do have the harness wire grounded to frame. I will return to it tomorrow morning and hope to get it fired up! I will have to borrow a timing light.
 
I don't think your new coil needs grounding so that should be fine. There was originally a ground wire from the harness to one of the coil mounting bolts. I would just make sure that still attaches at the frame, not up on your aluminum mount. Your wiring sounds OK too.
Ok, all installed and bike running but I cannot retard timing enoughwith existing notches in the ignition plate. Mark on the rotor will only get as far as the line way to the left of the f and t lines. I had this problem when I had points a nd had to adjust points gap beyond spec a bit to get timing on. Any Ideas? Can I widen the notched in the plate. Does anyone know why this is?
 
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The usual cause of running out of timing plate adjustment is a badly stretched timing chain. But it could also be related to the mounting of the timing related components (points cam, advance unit, rotor). All of these are keyed or "pinned" to their shafts in a certain exact position. If any of those components were installed without their locating pin or woodruff key (rotor), they may not be located exactly where they need to be.
 
I had to change the timing chain tensioner so I put in a new timing chain and rings too. It was quite some time before I put the motor back in so when I had trouble with my points timing I actually pulled the motor apart again to make sure I did not put the cam in upside down but it was right. No points cam as I have just installed the mikes electronic ignition. Visually my advance weights fully open at 3000 rpm. I had adjusted chain tension, valves etc. I will re check cam chain tension as it was never done with engine running. I guess I will check everything again! Thank you.
 
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