UK Brat Build (Engine first)

OMG Bathroom silicone! A few years ago, rebuilt a 1970 Triumph TR6 650 twin. QD rear hub. Except it wasn't quickly detachable because PO had practically filled it with white bathroom silicone. I could not believe how much I removed once I got the halves apart. An attempt to reduce free play, methinks?

Yes, there are a fair few jokers out there! I did notice that a couple of gaskets had Kellogs and Frosties on them... better than silicone I suppose!
 
As it’s the first day of Tier 4 lockdown until God knows when, I went in the shed
Waiting for the nut and bolt set to arrive, thought I’d make start on the clutch cover. Some of you eagle eyed chaps spotted that the PO had put two bolts through, for some unknown reason. I did think about scrapping it and just getting another. However, part of the reason for this build was to save another engine, so I decided to repair it. I’m planning to fit a cover to anonymise the engine, so started on that too

Back to the unwanted holes. Here they are from the inside

EBD10F11-380B-412D-8A6C-0DBEF33C4243.jpeg
BE80886C-FA1C-4F6B-8AF8-18CDE0F88FD3.jpeg


A while back I was at a show and saw a chap demonstrating this aluminium welding / brazing process and I thought that would be handy, so I thought I’d try it here

EDB117FB-21DD-48CC-BAD8-113200F75A57.jpeg


A bit fiddly and you have to get it HOT. I found pre heating in the oven helped. However the results speak for themselves

92C998C5-497D-410D-AF89-BEFCAC71D0DB.jpeg
CB10351A-AC41-4D75-987C-AC7F8F2754E7.jpeg


Tested with some brake cleaner - no leaks

Played around with the derby cover and fitted it up. Took some time contouring to the case to get a snug fit but we got there

D58A6E8D-F674-40FC-98D0-93033E567349.jpeg
BEBD1BAD-41B9-494B-95A7-AEBB653AA55E.jpeg
CDADBDB4-98C3-4331-B998-8C71BFA22AFD.jpeg


Then Postman Pat rocked up with the nuts and bolts

06A79D3F-4AAC-4144-A72F-D4AF2A6C3E38.jpeg


Popped the oil strainer on and the bottom sump plate, along with the starter motor cover, ready for reassembly

0C27221A-7CC1-4121-A337-A75F1F7A0960.jpeg
6F25340C-F552-4E75-92D2-82B7C328217F.jpeg
7278DCC3-C6A2-4B8C-B4E0-D6644B8E2FA6.jpeg


A bit of gasket trimming required, but that’s neither here nor there.

One thing that is baffling me is the gasket set. I have accounted for every gasket o ring and seal. However I have two o rings, about 30mm diameter, I just can not place. I think they may be surplus, but a prize for anyone who can tell me where they should go.

Here they are, bottom right

ABCE8586-3B25-4616-8E34-249C13A3DA01.jpeg
 
L & R side of head where camshaft seal plates fit?? No real idea but I`m sure with you on trimming off the excess "Green" from those gaskets. I did that too.:thumbsup:
 
Hi Halfmile, those are the other two black o rings to the left, slightly bigger. Good guess though... I’m still baffled
Yeah, they are unsightly, but does show that they’ve been replaced I suppose
 
Happy New Year to one and all!

With no hangover to nurse and little else to do, it was a good shout to crack on with the engine.

Fairly mundane and tedious today, with everything being cleaned, wire wheeled and / or polished (including every nut and bolt ). Cleaned out both cases and cleaned again. Selector drum, dogs, gears and crank in, along with the relevant seals.
The gearbox feels a little reluctant on occasion but I think that’s more due to the lack of copious amounts of oil sloshing about. The selector arm / claw needed adjustment with the little eccentric adjuster to centre it in relation to the drum. All gears do select, including neutral

With no starter motor, I’ve omitted all of the starter gears. Not only the usual suspects from the left side behind the starter cover, but the crossover shaft and associated gears and retaining plate on the right side too.

Popped the kickstart in too, checking it’s operating OK

CEBF7F8A-90F6-40E9-A492-56D2AD7965D5.jpeg
94674F78-33F2-4F2B-AEA9-CEA0E1603436.jpeg
BC1DAEF1-710F-4199-A4A8-0218AE78BAB0.jpeg
AF9DE63D-B4C9-44B4-A5E7-CD827D949283.jpeg
BCCFB67D-D1D1-4C03-9E4D-41B0882D28E5.jpeg
E67D5E96-7E59-4B83-94E4-E30472C4729A.jpeg
B954FEC5-A572-47D9-9990-834DBE87E3D0.jpeg


I will be machining a new neutral indent bolt from aluminium but I wire wheeled the old one to use for the time being. The level of corrosion on this bolt alone shows what a hard life this engine has had.

4F5CCA43-6088-4610-80AD-27540DC44C5C.jpeg
 
Hi
Please give info about the Aluminum brazing material
Who Contact -- Where --Price-- Strength--- Need for Cleaning --Other experiences

A while back I was at a show and saw a chap demonstrating this aluminium welding / brazing process and I thought that would be handy, so I thought I’d try it here
 
Hi Jan,

I bought mine a few years ago now, so I can’t remember who or where it came from.

However, a quick look on line throws up a lot of similar products. For example, here

T
here is also an interesting tutorial on YouTube here

I
have been very impressed with mine and as long as everything is clean and hot, it seems to be fine
 
I usually replace clutch springs when I am in there and most often the clutch plates
perhaps not necessary but springs at least are not that expensive.
and I have heard a rumor it can slip.
 
You could measure the clutch springs? The figure I have seen is 42.8 mm, but best double check the spec. Should only need to replace if the springs are too short or vary widely.
 
My friction plates were in spec with 57,000 miles. Since I’m the original owner, I’m sure the clutch is original. I found a set of Vesra springs on eBay for cheap, so they’re now installed. Yes, my clutch was slipping. The engine is still on the floor and not tested.
 
One of those days where everything is fighting you

But we got there in the end!

First challenge of the day - the cam chain tensioner. The formed steel plate that bolts it to the barrels was quite clearly made by a blind yetti with a four pound hammer. So, that had to be re-fashioned properly and made square! The new chain, whilst lovely was endless. Initially I thought, oh good, one less thing to do at the top end and I’ll just drop a cam bearing, pop the chain on and pop the bearing on. Unfortunately the cam tensioner plate has a little bar that runs across it meaning the chain has to be split. It’s pressed and riveted in, so the chain was the logical choice. Especially as I ordered a new link any way.

I then found the bolts that secure the plate were ever so slightly over size. I initially thought the threaded holes were the culprit....perhaps some crap in there. I ran a tap through to be sure and then found the over size bolts. No problem... a quick run on the die and they’re perfect.

0C593C84-92EB-4E8D-9E45-3EE0722E973B.jpeg

C964AFDF-A7EB-4993-951D-361B35EB38AE.jpeg


Just as I thought I’d solved that issue, I dropped one of the bolts into the casing
Popped the sump plate off and found the magnet doing its thing.

7BB1D509-7EE7-43CE-8741-003F1BEEA8B7.jpeg


Next up, pistons on! How easy is that.... errr no. Normally the little clips are the fiddliest part but I have a knack and a little hooked tool I use now. Both pistons on, pins in place and clips installed but something didnt feel right. Looking at the clips, they weren’t seating properly, at all in their groove. I tried the usual - jiggling, pins in, pins out and came to the conclusion, the pins were just too long to allow the clips to fully seat in their groove. So... 0.10mm machined off the end, a new chamfer too.... spot on. The below pics are before and after.. bit tricky to see though.

5A33139A-D2E3-42E0-91AE-BA690A650304.jpeg


3E47E1EF-2597-4C60-8732-9DA18F7F1A00.jpeg
229449A2-15C8-49D9-B923-5980827A3CB0.jpeg


Barrels on and head on ok. Made an interesting ring compressor from a couple of jubilee clips and an old plastic bottle cut into 1” sections and then split. Forgot to take a pic
I actually thought the cam chain was too short, however it only looked a half tooth out. I know they are pressure filled with grease from the factory, making them tight at the best of times. So, I took it in the house, wrapped it in a cloth and laid it in the airing cupboard for an hour - fit like glove

Cam cover on and bolted down for now. Will recheck and start on the ancillaries after this.

As it stands today...

544F7160-161A-4CE4-B030-90505038C561.jpeg
2F3D0CA3-3E32-43FC-9E2C-A7F6DF104C7B.jpeg
451C7CD1-1AF0-4D79-9995-817E87E0E134.jpeg
6B4E57C1-8736-43E6-B2ED-849599732E9C.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Next up, pistons on! How easy is that.... errr no. Normally the little clips are the fiddliest part but I have a knack and a little hooked tool I use now. Both pistons on, pins in place and clips installed but something didnt feel right. Looking at the clips, they weren’t seating properly, at all in their groove. I tried the usual - jiggling, pins in, pins out and came to the conclusion, the pins were just too long to allow the clips to fully seat in their groove. So... 0.10mm machined off the end, a new chamfer too.... spot on. The below pics are before and after.. bit tricky to see though.

Had exactly the same problem with some pins from MikesXS. Same solution, chuck 'em in the lathe and chamfer the ends. Like you, almost missed 'em..... sumpin' just didn't feel right. I wonder how many motors out there are running with the clips not fully seated. :yikes:
 
Back
Top