My rebuild journey. (old title: Future owner - Help me identify this 650.)

You will be lucky if it is just the shift lever and not the shift shaft that has the splines messed up.....


tim
 
Happened to me on a ride way-way back in the day...riding along, go to shift, and there's nothing there...the lever magically disappeared. Had to pull the clutch, pull to the side of the road and turned off the bike. Lever was back about a block, in two pieces. Fortunately, I was near a auto repair shop, and was able to borrow a set of vice grips to use as a make-shift lever. Got the bike home, and was fortunate not to have stripped out the splines on the shift shaft with the vice-grip and a new lever went on just fine.
 
Ok I have another stupid question. Is there a document out there that tells me all the nuts and bolts this bike has? Mainly frame and component bolts (no engine stuff). I feel like every pair of bolts are different on my bike. Some are bolts, some are screws, some are bolt with different head sizes. I know I probably just need to take the perfered one to the hardware store and buy the sets. The bike is up for now as we want the garage clean and vehicles warm for when labor comes. So now I'm just theory crafting what I want to do to the bike next.
 
Is there a document out there that tells me all the nuts and bolts this bike has? Mainly frame and component bolts (no engine stuff).

I don't think there is. The best reference source for that information is this forum. Factory manuals and after market manuals rarely give details of the sizes of fasteners. Maybe that was done so the manufacturer could change the fastener without having to re-issue the manual every time?
 
From
https://yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/workshop/decoding-yamaha-part-numbers
note all "non special" bolt part numbers indicate diameter and length. Go to the parts diagrams at say Partzilla, find the bolt you want, decode the part number and bingo bango.

About Yamaha part numbers
Did you ever wonder what the different parts of a Yamaha part number stood for? There actually is a method to their madness. Here are the details - Unplugged!

Part Number in the format XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX

XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
The first three digits are the Model Code (every model in the Yamaha Product Line has a unique model number) all parts are given a Model Code of the first model they were used on.

XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
The middle five digits are the Basic Code number and indicates the actual part, i.e. 11631 = piston; 11311 = cylinder, etc.

"W" substituted in the first position of this five-digit group (000-W0000-00-00) indicates a factory assembled kit which differs in content from the original assembly used in production (i.e. 2M0-W0046-00-00 – Rear Break Pad assembly).

XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
The next two digits are the Design Code and Design Change digits (so 01 means the part has had one design change). This part may or may not appear different, but it will be interchangeable with the original part.

XXX-XXXXX-XX-XX
The last two digits are the Color or Finish Code.

For a Part Number in the format XXXXX-XXXXX-XX

These are Hardware (fasteners). they all start with a '9' and end in '00'. - 9XXXX-XXXXX-00

9XXXX-XXXXX-00
The second and third digits tells us what type of fastener:

  • 0 - 'various'
  • 1 - bolts, cotter pins
  • 2 - screws, nuts
  • 3 - oil seals, O-rings, bearings
  • 4 - spark plugs
  • 5 - bolts, nuts
  • 6 - ISO bolts
  • 7 - ISO screws and nuts
9XXXX-XXXXX-00
The fourth and fifth digits tell us what material/surface finish (i.e. chromed).

9XXXX-XXXXX-00
Digits six and seven give the diameter (inner or outer) e.g. 08 would be an M8 size.

9XXXX-XXXXX-00
Digits eight, nine and ten are the length (except for '901' bolts for some reason)
There are also standard fastener types...e.g.
90105-XXXXX are Washer based bolts
90116-XXXXX are Studs
90401-XXXXX are Union bolts

99999-XXXXX means that a part has been superseded by a kit.
 
But, many of the fasteners used on your bike are the J.I.S. type. They have the normal metric threads but the head size usually differs from a standard metric fastener. The perfect example of this are the pinch bolts on your forks. They are an M8 bolt which normally has a 13mm hex head. But, these being J.I.S. type, they only have 12mm heads. This may be why many of your bolts are mismatched, standard metric bolts were swapped in for the original J.I.S. ones.
 
Ok I have another stupid question. Is there a document out there that tells me all the nuts and bolts this bike has? Mainly frame and component bolts (no engine stuff). I feel like every pair of bolts are different on my bike. Some are bolts, some are screws, some are bolt with different head sizes. I know I probably just need to take the perfered one to the hardware store and buy the sets. The bike is up for now as we want the garage clean and vehicles warm for when labor comes. So now I'm just theory crafting what I want to do to the bike next.

Page 1 Post #4.........When someone posts a link, or pertinent info, book mark that page or link for your future references.

Your 3 months into this thread and asking questions, and looking for information, that has been posted............not having a dig. just not going to re-post information, ..........kinda makes one feel they have wasted their time..........i do understand the enthusiasm sometimes outweighs the input and the 2 get crossed when getting into a new project and there are lots of people posting
 
Page 1 Post #4.........When someone posts a link, or pertinent info, book mark that page or link for your future references.

Your 3 months into this thread and asking questions, and looking for information, that has been posted............not having a dig. just not going to re-post information, ..........kinda makes one feel they have wasted their time..........i do understand the enthusiasm sometimes outweighs the input and the 2 get crossed when getting into a new project and there are lots of people posting
I apologize for the redundancy. I dont intend to waste anyones time. I appreciate all the explanations and hand holding I have received thus far.
 
I know 650 wheels are getting expensive but that one's really up there, lol. And besides, it's an 18" with an aluminum alloy rim. As I think was mentioned to you, it's not considered good practice to run mismatched rim types (steel and aluminum). Apparently they flex different amounts and that might lead to handling issues. So, if you got that then it would be best to replace the front with an aluminum rim as well.

I wouldn't throw the towel in yet on the one you've got. It may not be responding to your straightening efforts now with the tire in place but maybe if you deflate it or remove it, you'll have better luck. But as I also mentioned, I'm not sure it's worth the effort. The rim appears pretty badly rusted, more than will clean off. The rust has probably eaten into the chrome. That's one of the reasons I've decided to replace my original rim, that and the availability of cheap replacement stainless spokes and a rim on clearance sale. It's only going to cost me about $90 to completely refurb this one .....

full
 
$300 ? Holy Guacamole :yikes:
Very ugly backing plate too.
Hold out for better.. PMGary !!!
At this point I just want something safe. I would prefer an 16". I dont know if I trust myself making this wheel safe. I started asking around to get it trued and it would be about 150 WITHOUT re-lacing.
 
That's why it literally pays to learn how to do a lot of this stuff yourself.
Yep. Understandable. I gave her some good wacks with a 4lb hammer with the tire deflated. I do believe I need to take the tire off and try again. I do enjoy the 'do it yourself' mentality. Not having tools factors into alot of the cost for me. So with cost of new spokes + a wheel stand + tools such as irons + novice skills - The cost and risk gets close to finding a good one or pay someone to fix it for me. Along with the risk ultimately putting an unsafe wheel on due to the compounding factors of all of the above.
 
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