What have you done to your XS today?

I lost my 'point n shoot' camera beginning of month. Usually off load pics on the camera's card. Have some of the X2 dismantle, lost some....like taking the carbs apart. That had me staring at the choke mechanism apart for a while...while looking for missing pan head screws for float bowel cover and FB gaskets which I found. gave me a chance to blow out anything out of passage ways, lube that binary choke action and dab some med. Loctite on little screws I don't want to loose. I believe the needle of the Solex just drops into the float hole and is secured by just dropping the plastic spring holder on top of it. The clips were set at 1 groove up when removed, the float bowl heights were both about dead on at 24mm. So, left those alone to reassemble. Has the 130 main jets. One little jet is buggered up but clean.
moving on to something more daunting ...cleaning out the ft. fork tubes and rebuilding those with new shinny tubes and unrated springs. Think I'll send the aluminum lower forks and my rear wheel hub to my soda blaster before I decide to polish or leave as is as I did with the patina on the carbs that looks nice. Once that patina is gone....it's gone. Oh, go check the ft.steel rim that slept in evapo-rust...then take a walk.
 
Thanks Mate, just bought this one with the stitching and pipe in Yammy candy red. Colour is going to be white and candy red flashes and pin striping on guards and wheels. Hopefully it fits reasonably easily and the quality is good... I will post some pics of before and the build in the next few days. Appreciate your help!
Looks great1
 
Took the tach apart. Reinstalled the screws that hold the face on that had come out. Broke the needle. :banghead:

Im really sorry to hear that, the pointers are just pressed on to a tapered shaft, just for future reference in case you have to do it again some day, there is a technique to remove it.
Use two spoons, one on each side , pry against the two screw heads to apply upward pressure on the pointer. It’ll pop right off, then when you reassemble, just align the pointer and press it down gently on the tapered shaft.
I know this photo only shows one spoon, just to show the positioning, but two were used.
BB47804A-F569-4367-BCBB-EF085489CBF4.jpeg
 
Im really sorry to hear that, the pointers are just pressed on to a tapered shaft, just for future reference in case you have to do it again some day, there is a technique to remove it.
Use two spoons, one on each side , pry against the two screw heads to apply upward pressure on the pointer. It’ll pop right off, then when you reassemble, just align the pointer and press it down gently on the tapered shaft.
I know this photo only shows one spoon, just to show the positioning, but two were used.
View attachment 185775
Nice tip! Yamaha SST (special service tool)?
 
Send my rear hub and brake drum cover to my powder coater (Finishing Touch..N.Port,FL) . Too lazy to take apart f. forks and drive back to the machine shop. My machinist lives a mile from Finishing Touch... Good place if in the area. Good vapor blaster.https://thefinishingtouchfl.com/aqua-blasting/ That said, I am here: https://www.xs650.com/threads/mailman’s-xs2-a-full-on-restoration.51520/page-31#post-549692. Need more sand paper! Just put a light clear coat on the engine color. now, I can also sand those engine covers, install some seals. I left all of those yellow cad spoke nipples at the machine shop this am to see of all the crd will come off in the industrial parts washer....
 
Don't tell no one...just got out of the shower with a chrome ft. rim...:wtf:Couldn't take it no more, rotating that ft. rim around in some fresh Evapo-Rust. Ran some 0000X steel wool around the rim surfaces without pressing down while the ER liquid still lubed the surface. No pressure,just to catch the little former rust specks. The ER got into the inner rim drain holes and in the show lots of rusty water flushed out. I was able to knock off spots with my thumb nail...Rim is getting more acceptable by the day. I could still see rust coming off of pin holes while drying with a towel. So next progression in cleaning will be polishing steps to chemically clean and fine abrasives polish. I may put it back in the ER on a spot or two while waiting for tires I purchased and the std. size rear alloy rim I have yet to pull the trigger on. Rotating mass will be less on that driven wheel...My machinist said it would just look silly on aluminum one chrome...I should get the rear re-chromed. Have some Michelin Pilot Activ 4.00 x 18H n 3.25 x 19H coming with tubes. There is a chrome place in Tampa...just been scared to ask how much :yikes:. Taking apart the forks right now..nasty...that's why I logged on so I don't destroy them...
 
@Chet Ironhorse did you mask off the fins when you painted the cyl & head or did you sand/polish off the paint afterward?
No masking........ I sanded them all flat with a 2'' roloc before I had them powder coated. (Stock they are a pretty irregular surface) Once off-gassed and sprayed with powder he wiped off as much powder as he could, then baked and cured them. When I got them back I went over all the surfaces again with a 180 grit roloc. If I was just to try and sand off all the powder it would have likely heated it up and caused the edges to curl.
 
Engine before install. 700 JE pistons, shell #1, KW springs, ported head, 5th gear OD. Barnett springs, Alto 8 friction plate mod, Pamco, PMA.... powder coated everything...etc

View attachment 185915
That motor is art! Would make great tee shirt. Great to see it out, basking in the sun.
 
Back
Top