Other Bikes and Workshop Woes

Get a good fit steel punch or long flat blade bit and give a couple light but sharp raps on the jet head, I find this step will often break loose the stuck threads.
Also try to tighten as well as loosen, the opposite stress will also act to loosen more bound up threads.
 
I know this is a bit late for you now, but I find one of the keys to removing old jets is a perfectly fitting screwdriver. Unfortunately, you probably won't find one, lol. So, I've taken to custom grinding 1/4" insert bits to get that perfect fit .....

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For the pilot jets, I've found these 4mm slotted "power" bits work well. The 4mm width is perfect to fit the slot width but the blade thickness is still a bit thin. Grinding the tip a little bit to get to some thicker steel is needed .....

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T3635CX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I apply all of the above mentioned techniques. While the jet is soaking in penetrating oil, I heat it. Then I put the screwdriver bit in it and give it a few taps with a small hammer. Only after doing all this several times will I attempt to loosen the jet. And for that, I put my custom ground, perfectly fitting screwdriver tip in a T-handle holder .....

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With this T-handle bit holder, you can apply enough torque to strip the slot right out of the jet, lol. If I feel that beginning to happen before the jet breaks loose, I go back to the penetrating oil soaking and heating. Sometimes sitting over night while soaking will help as well.
 
Wow, I'm late to this party! On the first page, xs650 the Wassell style tank is that a mid or Frisco mount tank? Also what length on the shocks? That is assuming the OP is still around.
 
Hey 5Twins, thanks for the tip on the 4mm bits... I'll have to pick up a few of those. I did take one of my flatheads over to the bench grinder and get it to size; I just have trouble feeling the difference between the head shearing off and the jet breaking free... I just need more practice I guess. I've been trying heat as I attempt to loosen, but no dice. Hopefully will have some time this weekend to work on it some more.
 
Keep them soaking with the penetrating oil. Sometimes time is the thing. Sitting and soaking for a day or three may help.

And when I grind and fit the bits, I do it to brand new jets with perfect screwdriver slots.
 
If your carb is apart, and you have access to an ultra sonic cleaner, that has been pretty effective at loosening jets. I've also had good luck soaking in ChemDip...but I only let it soak for 20-30 min. at a time followed by a water rinse. Haven't had a jet NOT come out after that... Note: I made the mistake of leaving a carb in there for a day once, and severely regretted it (The metal turned DARK grey and got really soft, like clay), pretty much ruined that carb--fortunately it was one of several carbs I had lying around and was experimenting with cleaning techniques.

If the jet's head is buggered, you may need to bite the bullet and drill it out, or try an easy out? Doubt you'll be able to save the jet at any rate.
 
If your carb is apart, and you have access to an ultra sonic cleaner, that has been pretty effective at loosening jets. I've also had good luck soaking in ChemDip...but I only let it soak for 20-30 min. at a time followed by a water rinse. Haven't had a jet NOT come out after that... Note: I made the mistake of leaving a carb in there for a day once, and severely regretted it (The metal turned DARK grey and got really soft, like clay), pretty much ruined that carb--fortunately it was one of several carbs I had lying around and was experimenting with cleaning techniques.
If the jet's head is buggered, you may need to bite the bullet and drill it out, or try an easy out? Doubt you'll be able to save the jet at any rate.
Good advice except for the easy out, they just don't work on jets.
 
I rarely reuse the old jets. The heads are usually all buggered up and I consider myself lucky I got them out the first time, lol. There's also no telling if the metering orifices have been eaten away and enlarged by gas residue. Besides, I'm usually re-jetting them for mods and need different (larger) sizes anyway.
 
Easy-Out is a Misnomer. Rarely had any success with them. Typically if the head or shank of a bolt or stud breaks it's buggered or rusted in. If you can pick at it with a scribe and it wiggles or moves it'll work but that's generally not the case. Using a Dremel and carbide burr to grind around the outside of one of the things to get it out, then having to install a thread insert is not my idea of a fun afternoon.
I typically have an easier time getting stuck bolts or studs out by drilling them to the minor diameter of the thread and pulling the thread out in pieces or peeling it out as a coil.
 
Had my first experience with hydrolocking. Got the zephyr fired up and did a preliminary ride. Went out the next day to dial in the carbs, and I didn't realize it but gas had drained into the cylinders...bike shuddered when I tried to start it then wouldn't even turn over (obviously I only tried cos I didn't know what had happened) Drained the oil: chocolate milk, reeked of gas. pulled the plugs turned it by hand and more gas. Two new filters and later and a s*** ton of oil it is resolved. Pulled carbs to clean overflow and replace every gasket. I'm not risking an engine rebuild over 70$ worth of O-rings. Did a quick and dirty measurement of piston heights, and no discernible difference so hopefully no bent rods (or other damage). :confused:
 
Luckily at crank over speed you aren't likely to damage anything. It's more of hydro locking at rpm when you hit a puddle or something at higher rpm that really does damage.
 
Ratranger, your coming Triton build will be interesting to watch if you post your progress. It's interesting when you consider the Norton Featherbed frame is really an early version of a perimeter frame that's pretty common now with sportbikes.
 
Well I've got the start of another 2yr build. About a year ago I picked up a 72 t120r motor for $75. Today I got a frame to stick it in.View attachment 190119

Looks as a Featherbed frame ..for a Norton fex but is it ... Please give more Info
It looks to be in fine shape being as old as I think it is
Expensive ????
If possible a picture of the $ 75 engine .at that price perhaps the conrods are pointing outwards.
And a hole in the bottom letting all the oil out
 
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