1978 Xs650SE Barn Find

The wobble extension will also help with #9 and 10, the two bolts under the spark plugs. Taking the covers off the points and advance housings will help too.
 
That's pretty much normal at idle with the headlight on. It won't go up into the mid 14's until you rev it to like 3K. If it doesn't go up when you rev it then, yes, you do have charging issues.
 
Well, you'll have to start checking and testing things related to the charging system. Start with the alternator brushes. They're considered a wear item on these bikes and once they wear too short, charging will drop off or even quit. New, they're about 14mm long. The wear limit is 7mm and if they're originals, there should be a wear line etched in the side of the brush .....

h8CoO4m.jpg


You can remove them to measure their length but it may be easier just to pull the alternator off. The spring on the brush will force it out of the holder enough so you can see the wear line .....

PiJQ5jM.jpg


As they wear, the carbon that rubs off them turns the slip rings they bear against black. If they get too dirty, you can start losing contact. Maybe that's the issue. You can clean them with chrome cleaner. Here's one cleaned, the other not .....

GHoeRsM.jpg


..... and then both cleaned .....

jrGGd3G.jpg


If the brushes are OK then you'll want to test the rotor. To do that, you measure the resistance between the two copper slip rings. It should be 4 to 5 ohms. You can't have the brushes in contact with the rings when measuring so while the alternator housing is pulled off is the perfect time to do this test (and clean the rings of course).

So, do these checks then get back to us. If they check out then it's time to move on to the regulator and rectifier. If one of them proves to be the issue, we can provide info on good, cheap replacements.
 
5twins - Where could I get replacement brushes? I will check them tonight after I get out of work. Also do I test the resistance while bike is running or just key on??

Thanks,

Tim
 
Neither, key off and brushes not touching slip rings. Personally, I prefer original brushes, I think they're made better and last longer than the aftermarket ones. Go on eBay, there's lots on there. Your inner and outer brushes differ from one another (different brackets) .....

9nokSV2.jpg


Here's an inner w/ part number .....

OwmzpJw.jpg


..... and here's the outer .....

9AnTrTU.jpg


You can usually find N.O.S. originals for about the same price as the aftermarket knock-offs, sometimes even cheaper.
 
Even if your brushes are still good, if you keep the bike a while, eventually you're going to need to replace them. And you just know they'll fail on a Sunday, lol. So, it's a good idea to keep some on hand as spares. Here's some inners at a good price. I'd buy a pair .....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/262786007393

..... and here's a pair of outers. The outers wear faster than the inners because they cover more distance with each revolution .....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274679110796?hash=item3ff4269c8c:g:o1IAAOSwUmRgJDqK
 
Good morning everyone,

Went out to the garage early before my kids got up and did some diagnostics.

The brushes will need to be replaced (ordered) and did the ohm test on the rotor. I am not getting any type of reading. I believe my rotor will need to be replaced based on my research. Anyone have a good lead on a good rotor or know where to purchase one?

Also how do you clean the stator? As you can see in the pictures below it is dirty.

Thanks,

Tim
 

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Have not read it all but as a thought
Since the rotor appears to be open circuit
One coping strategy could be to at the same time consider upgrade the regulator
and rectifier
..I have heard of Suzukis from that time period shorting out Both alternator and
Regulator.
So that replacing the alternator and not the regulator ended in a freshly burnt second alternator
Depending on the bikes setup :but it can be that the bike has the stock " Relay " type
Regulator that has been sitting
Regulator which does not have the best reputation.
And as it seems there are Electronic Equivalents out there for not so much money.
again I have not read it all and these decisions depends on When and Finances.
But I put it here for Consideration.
Others might come in.
 
I just made a repair this week. In the connector from the stator is a red wire that I believe feeds current to the charging rotor. That connection overheated and damaged the connector. I replaced the connector and all of the pins. 25 mile road test is all it got. Something like that will turn the charging system off.
6BC0B31F-2166-49B1-9500-552E29406523.jpeg
 
I looked over all the wiring and everything looks good. I will test the regulator tomorrow morning. I was able to source a good rotor from a old HS friend that has a bike shop that tested out. I have ordered a rotor puller and now just playing the waiting game once again.

Thank you all again for all your help.

Tim
 
Don't throw that old rotor away, consider sending it off to Jim for a rewind when time and finances permit. I've been running my '78 since 2005 and the original rotor finally gave out late last season. I think eventually all these old originals will. You can lessen the load and strain on it by upgrading your reg and rec.
 
@5twins I am going to hang on to my old rotor. Never know when I may need to send it in for a rewind or as a core. I think I am very close to being able to ride this bike. Also are you able to clean the stator or should I leave it as is?
 
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