1971 Build for Dad

Got into the body work the past couple of days.. This is my first time using any kind of body filler and I have found the process to be fun and highly frustrating at the same time. I am convinced that adding the hardener causes the passage of time to increase rapidly in some sort of relativistic bubble around the Bondo.

I did end up getting all of the old Bondo off and was happy to see that the metal underneath was in great shape. aside from that massive dent!

upload_2021-5-8_11-26-32.png


That being said, I am really happy with how I got it patched up. It took a couple of applications, and it is not perfect, but I think it will look fine once it is painted and the badge is on:

upload_2021-5-8_11-28-47.png


upload_2021-5-8_11-28-54.png


upload_2021-5-8_11-29-0.png


Moving forward, I could use a little advice on how to do the final sanding... I applied filler to the whole of the tank and have it mostly sanded down using flat blocks, rotating the direction of sanding 45 degrees every session. There were several other dents, but most of them were quite small, with the exception of the "tail" of the tank. The problem is, I have more batches of Bondo than I had dents:

upload_2021-5-8_11-33-27.png


Do you think these are low areas in the tank or high areas in the Bondo? Running a finger of it feels good, very smooth. Do I need to keep sanding until most of the Bondo is gone or should I move onto paint?
 
It is likely some, or most, of these a due to small ripples in the metal from when the tank parts were pressed. My Virago tank was bad for ripples in the metal on the top left side. On that major dent especially, it is important to get its profile to perfectly match that of the tank because the final paint coat will have a gloss and this will show up the smallest of profile irregularities. The sanding marks will disappear as you work through the various primer and primmer/filler coats. Where the badge goes it would be best not to leave that sharp edge in the bondo, unless the badge completely covers it?? Also, sharp edges need to be avoided because they do not cover well when sprayed due to surface energy issues.

It is looking very good .. :hump:
 
The trick I've used, is to set outside on a stool, in some bathing trunks, with a garden hose sprayer set to a fine mist. Wet-sanding with a rubber-backed block. With the sun over or behind you, lightly mist the tank, and look at the water reflections. High/low spots easy to find...
 
Thanks, guys! All welcome suggestions. I did plan on breaking the sharp edges. I also like the idea of priming it. Guess I can always go back to metal if I need to. I imagine that would also help with the water trick. Will look into glazing putty, never heard of it.
 
One more quickie... anyone have an opinion on when to use filling primer as opposed to a standard sandable primer? I've only ever used the latter. Was thinking this might be a good application for a thicker primer...
 
Whatever you do, don't buy the Bondo brand glazing putty. It's pitifully bad. I like 3M putty. It's just used for minor imperfections you missed with the bondo.
Fill primer's good for filling sanding scratches. It's something you try to sand completely off, just leaving it in the scratches. Once you're satisfied it's ready, finish it off with a primer sealer.... then paint.

Untitled.png
 
I’ll second that bondo products are junk - I use poly fillers everyday, only use evercoat brand.

primer should be a direct to metal primer (not all are)

Ps. You didn’t just fill that massive dent did you??
 
Ps. You didn’t just fill that massive dent did you??
Sure did. :eek: Trying to pull out the dent was not an option. I just lined the tank with an epoxy liner and that essentially locked the steel in place. Is that what you were getting at?

I give the body filler a good blast with compressed air to blow all the dust out of the scratches and air bubbles before filling them.
Yep, I made sure it was very clean and roughed up the surface to promote adhesion. As this was my first time using body filler, I also had several practice runs to avoid forming air bubbles.
 
Made some good progress on the tank this week. Got a coat of primer on it and found that spot putty was needed in a couple of places, mostly for pinholes where there were larger batches of body filler:

upload_2021-5-16_21-8-12.png


Sanding, sanding, and some more sanding...
upload_2021-5-16_21-8-34.png


I ended up doing two cycles of primer and putty, before finally applying a sealer, sanding the whole time, but it is looking pretty good!
upload_2021-5-16_21-9-43.png


Time to get Dad's PVC paint booth put together...
upload_2021-5-16_21-10-22.png


I love this design because it is wrapped in plastic painting drop sheet. A pack of three big sheets at Lowes is $4.98. When you are finished you just throw it away, overspray mess and all. Also, the collapsed poles are easy to store.
upload_2021-5-16_21-11-40.png


Onto the base coat. I am using templates from Diablo Cycle, so the white came first.
upload_2021-5-16_21-12-17.png


And this is where I got into a bit of a jam... The reality of how difficult it would be to apply this paint mask hit me. I have never done anything like this before and it looks HARD! The mask is cutout onto a 3M masking tape.
upload_2021-5-16_21-14-24.png


So... I am wondering if anyone who has been down this road has any tips for me? My big question is where is the best place to start laying down the template? I have also read about shooting a little clear over the mask to help prevent bleeding, thoughts on that? I have looked on some online videos and can't really find anything that is much help. Any feedback would be so greatly appreciated!
 
I've never used those masks Rhy, as we've already discussed. If I were to go on the assumption that they go on the same as any vinyl decal... maybe these videos will help. This is part 1. Part two will show when it ends. Fwiw, I followed these videos to apply vinyl to a tank and they're spot on.

 
That paint booth is super clever! And your tank is looking great! I’ve often wondered why those templates don’t come with detailed instructions, I would think they should’ve had instructions with photos, maybe even a video.
I could offer you some detail reference photos of XS2 tank striping, if you need any.
 
That diy portable paint booth looks awesome. How are you hanging the tank? Those PVC poles can't be strong enough? Do you have any venting?
 
That diy portable paint booth looks awesome. How are you hanging the tank? Those PVC poles can't be strong enough? Do you have any venting?
The tank is hung on a wooden cross that lays atop the PVC frame. All the forces on the PVC joints are compressive and surprisingly the structure is plenty strong to hold up the tank. I have a pedestal fan that provides some negative pressure, venting through the cracked garage door to keep wind down.

I’ve often wondered why those templates don’t come with detailed instructions
It's because they are intended for professionals! I only discovered this after buying them... :doh: I still plan on calling the company and seeing what advice I can get out of them. I'm sure they will be very frustrated with me... I would be.

If I were to go on the assumption that they go on the same as any vinyl decal... maybe these videos will help.
Yeah, I think that is the way forward! I was hesitant about putting the decal on the base coat because it felt like it wouldn't stick or seal. Never thought to apply a clear coat to it first. Is there anything to stop me from shooting the kandy gold base onto a wet-sanded clear coat?

*I would also like to take a minute to apologize to anyone who is experienced in automotive painting. I'm sure this is painful to watch... I have had many interns at my work and can imagine what this is like... I set out to do this myself and at least have to give it a go. A big thanks to Jim who has provided me with excellent advice throughout this whole process.*
 
I've painted three sets of tins myself due to Jim's inspiration, Rhy. I know they didn't come out as good as what Jim would have done, but the joy of learning and satisfaction you get doing it yourself is worth the reward. Looks like you are doing a fantastic job!
 
This is my first time using any kind of body filler I am convinced that adding the hardener causes the passage of time to increase rapidly in some sort of relativistic bubble around the Bondo.

I do not believe you....:bs:. No way thats your first time:jk:. Nice work! You're a natural, while body work isn't rocket science it isn't all that intuitive either. You've done an outstanding job for your first attempt. And yes the passage of time is relative to the amount of hardener used / temp + humidity ² -confidence...
 
Last edited:
Back
Top