New here, need some help!!

I'd put the bike on centerstand, pull both plugs, ground them to a head fin and kick it watching for spark on either side.
20210508_193210.jpg

You've changed plenty of wiring connections it sounds like. So I'm betting on a wiring error?
 
Thanks! There's spark everywhere. The wiring is good to go and it would have started probably if I didn't short the freaking battery against the frame ha
 
What is the core of the coil? I attached a pic of my coil.


Testing the coil:

1. Using the lowest scale on the meter, measure the resistance between the primary terminals with the wires removed. Should read from 2.5 to 4.5 Ohms.

**Mine is 2.1

2. Using the highest scale on the meter, measure between one of the primary terminals and the center core of the coil. Should be infinite resistance. (open)

**Idk what center core is??

3. Measure between one of the primary terminals and one of the plug wire terminals. Should be infinite resistance. (open circuit)

** Nothing happens stays at 0

4. Measure between one of the plug wire terminals and the core of the coil. Should be infinite resistance (open circuit)

** Idk what the core is

5. Measure from one plug terminal to the other. Should be 15,000 to 20,000 Ohms

** mine shows up .014
 

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Testing the PAMCO

1. Use a voltmeter and check for battery voltage on each of the red/white wires with the key and kill switch are turned on.

** Mine came up as 10.1v


When I tested the battery it is 12.7v
 
10.1 is low. Could be a fault in the key switch or the kill switch. check the voltage on both sides of the key switch and see if the voltage drop is there and the repeat for the kill switch.

I don't think a xscharge ignition will spark at that low of a voltage.
 
Team Junk said:
10.1 is low. Could be a fault in the key switch or the kill switch. check the voltage on both sides of the key switch and see if the voltage drop is there and the repeat for the kill switch.

I don't think a xscharge ignition will spark at that low of a voltage.
Click to expand...

Seems right to me
The coil reading I would guess is close enough and if i Recall right spark was there .from the beginning but weak
And not now With a low voltage.
Then Mr Machine # 161
 
Team Junk said:
10.1 is low. Could be a fault in the key switch or the kill switch. check the voltage on both sides of the key switch and see if the voltage drop is there and the repeat for the kill switch.

I don't think a xscharge ignition will spark at that low of a voltage.
Click to expand...


Think it's low because the coil is low? I really think the pop I heard was me blowing something usually that's how it sounds when you blow a breaker in the house of that makes sense.. except I don't have breakers and this isn't a house. Lol.

But Jan_P are you saying the voltage seems right or yes it seems low? Would I just hold the negative to say ign and one to batt, and vice versa to test with multimeter? I'd assume for kill put negative on off and red on on. I got a new kill switch and new key ignition just because I wanted to make sure I covered everything, would one be bad?
 
Xs6502021 said:
Think it's low because the coil is low? I really think the pop I heard was me blowing something usually that's how it sounds when you blow a breaker in the house of that makes sense.. except I don't have breakers and this isn't a house. Lol.

But Jan_P are you saying the voltage seems right or yes it seems low? Would I just hold the negative to say ign and one to batt, and vice versa to test with multimeter? I'd assume for kill put negative on off and red on on. I got a new kill switch and new key ignition just because I wanted to make sure I covered everything, would one be bad?
Click to expand...


But Jan_P are you saying the voltage seems right or yes it seems low? --> It believe it is low

I don't think things pop so easy it can of course happen but a couple of arcs and smoke does not generally ruin things
again it can happen ( I don't know these ignitions ) but lets think positive..
Try to measure Voltage downstream from battery ..
Start with ignition off and measure across battery
Then ignition on measure across battery if low 10.3 or something then there is a short or weak battery
If not follow the wires downstream to Ignition components .getting it ( Voltage ) up a bit closer to 12 V
Then do as in post #161 report if any spark .
 
Okay I will test! The battery is 100% fine. It's 12.7! And I will test the key and kill switch as well. If all of those are fine, would it be my coil or ignition? Like I said, my coil is low on the multimeter tests so I figured that would mean it's bad.

something definitely happened because when I would turn everything on before it hit the frame, I was hearing a low clock noise when I turned on the Killswitch and I also saw spark when connect red and black terminals to battery and now I don't hear anything and no spark at all. But mikesxs is junk in my opinion because all of their parts are so damn fragile or work half ass, wish pamcopete sold stuff directly still, mikesxs sucks. Lol it says on their website it fries fast basically
 
Could the pieces found in the oil be safety wire? I can't really think of what it would have been used for where it could end up in there, but that was my first thought upon seeing it.
 
spacetiger110 said:
Could the pieces found in the oil be safety wire? I can't really think of what it would have been used for where it could end up in there, but that was my first thought upon seeing it.
Click to expand...

It could be, the best way to describe it is it's flat metal, like if you ripped off pieces of a slinky.
It's not rounded if that makes sense.
 
Okay guys, so 12.71 is on the ignition key (on acc,batt,ign) and it's on the Killswitch too. So the only thing low volts than normal is the coil, or the electronic ignition itself
 
Xs6502021 said:
So when you say jump it, do you literally mean like how you jump a car? Cables from running battery to battery, then try to kickstart it?
Click to expand...

No ---perhaps my English is not good enough.
If you at the upside of a thing (Black box or switch) have say 12 V and on the downside has say 9 V
You are suspecting a fault in there .Sometimes (as in this case) it is possible to take the 12 V and connect it to the 9 V point
So that the possible malfunction inside the switch is bypassed.. And you instead of the 9 V now have 12 V on the downside also.
There must be possibilty to remove ..that bypass to kill the engine
Voltage cannot be left on the ignition. All the time not running
 

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