New here, need some help!!

No, test the power wire only disconnected from the coil. See if it reads near battery voltage like that and then is drawn down to 10 volts once you connect it. Honestly, I don't think I ever tested the coil power feed wire connected to the coil. I think I always had it unplugged when testing it for battery voltage. Maybe it's normal for it to be drawn down a volt or two once connected? The reason I've tested some in the past is because low voltage to the coil is a pretty common problem on old bikes because of all the old connections and switches the voltage must pass through to get from the battery to the coil. You can lose several volts if those things are all crusty and dirty. But you say all your wiring and switches are new, so you shouldn't be losing voltage, at least not several volts. Maybe you'd see a few tenths of a volt drop. That's usually what I end up with after cleaning everything.

If you are getting 10 volts on the power wire with it disconnected from the coil then you need to start tracing it back and checking at every connection and switch to see where you're losing that 2.7 volts.

There is a work-around to get full power to the coil without fixing the wiring and switch issues. Details are here .....

https://wgcarbs.com/index.php/using...content-component/article-categories/89-coils

The metal thing may be the spring off the Bendix mechanism.

Red wire connected voltage
Red wire disconnected voltage.

should be near the same.

5twins said:

There is a work-around to get full power to the coil without fixing the wiring and switch issues. Details are here .....

https://wgcarbs.com/index.php/using...content-component/article-categories/89-coils

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This is in the event the voltages on the red wire connected and disconnected differ quite a lot.

This is how my bike is wired BTW

I would disconnect your PMA until you get the spark sorted out.

Just checked my run stand. Power to the coil wire is about a half a volt higher when you disconnect it from the coil. I'd guess that's pretty typical.

Thanks guys!! I will try it. The only reason I didn't is because I thought you can't have kill switch on when there isn't a coil, it could fry the electronic ignition? Everywhere on mike's website says don't turn power on unless the electronic ignition is connected to the coil. So that wontmess up my electronic ignition??

Jim said:

Just checked my run stand. Power to the coil wire is about a half a volt higher when you disconnect it from the coil. I'd guess that's pretty typical.

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You need to have the pamco power wire disconnected to measure the voltage on it.

Oh geeze idk if I can, I don't remember if they're soldered together in the grip.. I can't cut the solder it'll be too short unless I attach another wire... Hmm. I'll have to figure out how it's attached and take it apart somehow. I'm starting to hate this bike lol

Hey guys haven't been around for a while I apologize! Here is the update. I've been held up waiting for packages to come which is why I haven't moved further apparently there was some serious shipping issues to my house lol But I ordered a new coil and tested it just to see if it read similar to mine My coil actually reads higher so therefore I'm going to roll out my coil. I ordered a brand new electronic ignition from Mike's as well and do not plan to open the box until I finish up trying out mine So if that's not the problem I can return it lol. But I wanted to at least have the coil and new ignition and new spark plug wires which all took forever to get here. I just tested the output the wiring is completely perfect I changed all the fuses just to play it safe but it's definitely pushing out 12.7 volts all the way up to where the coil would be plugged in. So either my coil is completely lowering it for some reason or maybe the electronic ignition is actually fried and losing the voltages there. But the good news is I've officially narrowed it down to the top half of the wiring so it definitely is not how I wired the bike or ignition key or anything. The spark plugs and wires are new so I'm ruling that out right now also. I have not tested for spark yet by grounding the plugs due to waiting on the wires. My question for you now is my alternator is still currently attached. How do I know if the ignition and the coil are fine and it's not the PMA? I don't understand if I detach the alternator how will it start, shouldn't it start even if it's bad even if it shuts off right away? If that makes sense.

The ignition requires voltage to work. If you are not charging but have a good, fully charged battery, the bike will start and run off that for a while. But once the voltage in the battery is drawn down, the bike's ignition will start acting up, misfiring, and eventually, once the battery voltage gets too low, the bike will quit.

5twins said:

The ignition requires voltage to work. If you are not charging but have a good, fully charged battery, the bike will start and run off that for a while. But once the voltage in the battery is drawn down, the bike's ignition will start acting up, misfiring, and eventually, once the battery voltage gets too low, the bike will quit.

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Okay thanks!! So we have spark, but here's a new problem. When I go to kick the bike to start it, the recoil/compression or whatever it was almost broke my ankle. I'm not a small fragile person lol. Ive done mma and boxing my whole life, taken some serious hits lol. But man, this thing flung back so hard and it's never done that before! Anytime I've kicked it before it was rough yeah but this doesn't feel right.. is there a chance those metal pieces I found could have something to do with the kick? I don't know much about kickstart.

Xs6502021 said:

Okay thanks!! So we have spark, but here's a new problem. When I go to kick the bike to start it, the recoil/compression or whatever it was almost broke my ankle. I'm not a small fragile person lol. Ive done mma and boxing my whole life, taken some serious hits lol. But man, this thing flung back so hard and it's never done that before! Anytime I've kicked it before it was rough yeah but this doesn't feel right.. is there a chance those metal pieces I found could have something to do with the kick? I don't know much about kickstart.

Click to expand...

Things that cause kick-back/ hard starting, valve adjustment, ignition timing, not finding TDC before kicking through.

RustiePyles said:

Things that cause kick-back/ hard starting, valve adjustment, ignition timing, not finding TDC before kicking through.

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How do I adjust timing of electronic ignition without it starting? I've read to loosen screws on mikesxs electronic ignition and turn counter clockwise or clockwise to be more advance or more retard. Is that right?

Haven’t ever used that system but that sounds right. Kicking back usually indicates timing to advanced. I’d start retarding it incrementally until it starts.

Yes, that's how you adjust it. To get it exact, yes, the bike has to be running and you need to hook up a timing light to it. But if the ignition is off, kick back is usually because it's too far advanced. So, you could try a little static adjusting to see if it cures that bad kick back. Rotate the timing plate counterclockwise to retard the ignition. I'd turn it 1/8" or so.

If it's kicking back because it's too advanced, retarding incrementally will eventually get it done.... but ...you might encounter several more kickbacks along the way. On the other hand... if you move it to full retard now... all at once... and then incrementally advance it, you'll eventually get it to run without the kickbacks. Your leg will be much happier.
Jus' sayin....

Thanks guys!! Jim, I think I'm gonna do that way first lol. My ankle can't take much more kickback! Here's another puzzler for you. There's spark, the proper voltage everywhere noe,(11.5-12.7) checked kill switch, coil, etc and all the voltage is good to go. HOWEVER. When I turn ignition on and kill switch on, I hear a click (electronic ignition which I'd assume means power.) Well now, after the hard kickbacks, I do not hear a click!! I adjusted the wiring from pamco to coil, and even changed the clip thinking MAYBE it's just lose wire, and still no click. The voltage and wiring is all good still and not lose anywhere. What the hell is up with this electronic ignition?! Should I just put the new one on? Im starting to feel this one is effed up or something. Because there's spark etc, carbs cleaned, new fuel, etc idk wtf is going on w this electronic ignition (aside from timing is messed up)

Fuse?
Kick it while on centerstand. All the way through.