tapered roller steering head bearings

Yes the fiches from Yamaha have a few errors, specially watch out on 72-73 stuff. There are also a fair number of parts that only differ by color so the model listing isn't always the "whole story" Late model 4 pot calipers are one with a color "gotcha" There are about 4 or 5 color combos with different part numbers that are functionally identical. Yamaha doesn't ALWAYS keep to their own; color is digit X and Y of the part number scheme either.
 
Hmmmm - all good to know. The chap who taught me about parts fish checked it yesterday and he confirms that it doesn't work the way it used to. I will switch to Partzilla.

Pete
 
Hmmmm - all good to know. The chap who taught me about parts fish checked it yesterday and he confirms that it doesn't work the way it used to. I will switch to Partzilla.
Pete
Hi Pete,
dontcha just hate that? Folks "improving" stuff into unusability?
I'm reminded of the WW2 Russian General who was in charge of weapon production.
He had a big sign on his office wall that said:-
Seek out those who wish to improve an in-place working weapon system.
And shoot them.
 
+1 on that Sir Frederick!

When I worked in the petroleum industry in West Africa one of my colleagues (a Brit as I recall it....or perhaps a Yorkshireman...) had a sign in his Schlumberger wireline logging unit - right in the middle of the control panel - and it said in about 150 pt. bold-face font: "Do NOT touch or otherwise mess with anything in this truck unless you wish to buy it or eat it."

Succinct, to the point, and easy to understand.
 
I'm getting back into it after a few years off. I was way into it and did allowing the carbs bronze before things new bars etc. I changed to sealed bearings last project. I have to say the steering was like a rail b4 I messed with it. I have 2 say as of now I wish I left the original bearings. I don't remember using the seals on the intall of new bearings, maybe I did its been a while. I don't think I realised there were 2 sizes of bearings. Is it possible I installed them over opposite of the correct way? Will the bottom go In the top and top in bottom. Would they fit that way?
 
Yes the inner races can be put in reversed. the roller parts only go one way. One of the races is taller than the other. You normally need to reset the jamb nuts after a few hundred miles, usually you have not fully seated the races, when they seat the bearing gets sloppy, usually a clicking or light clunk when you brake is the tip off.
 
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Okay thanks I think that's it. The steering nuts need 2 be tighter. I fealt that way already but the fella who inspected my bike wanted the steering loose enough to flop left and right.
 
Just snug enough that you can feel a bit of resistance to the flop. You can take out tapered rollers with too much tension. Not an XS but I got blindsided and found this out by my usual method. :mad:
 
I'm just outside now getting her running. I messed might have 2 jump from a car battery. I went through about 3 glass mat batteries, the retailer had no problem taking them back but even though it's not used much it's been 2 long. The 4th or 5th one now just straight dead like It's open circuit. I think I'm going back 2 led acid. I'm get one 2day if it's in the cards.
I'm looking forward 2 correctly tightening the steering and getting her on track.
 
I haven't ordered from PartFish lately, free shipping on Partzilla over $149.
However, since buying a 1976 Yamaha Basket Case, I have noticed Parts fish does have a more complete parts list when compared to Partzilla. See below.
As far as how to search for parts: Check out their tutorial in the SUPPORT TAB:). Its the last item, a you tube video.
http://www.partsfish.com/page/website-tutorials

2fish.jpeg
Partsfish.jpeg
 
Yes it sticks up about 3/16.
So if the tapered bearing sticks above the neck 1/8" or so, doesnt that then dictate the silver bearing cap that goes over the upper bearing is also above normal height, which would then mean the upper triple which sits in the silver cap is also above normal height, which would leave the gap between the upper and lower trees increased by a little, if so, can the headlight brackets which fit between the trees be expected to continue to have a snug fit with the space increased?
 
So if the tapered bearing sticks above the neck 1/8" or so, doesnt that then dictate the silver bearing cap that goes over the upper bearing is also above normal height, which would then mean the upper triple which sits in the silver cap is also above normal height, which would leave the gap between the upper and lower trees increased by a little, if so, can the headlight brackets which fit between the trees be expected to continue to have a snug fit with the space increased?
That wasn't my experience with the SG. It stood a little proud just as you say, but my headlight stays are still nice and tight. After I installed the tapered rollers, I worried about the too, but once it was all together everything was fine. Of course.... mileage varies.:rolleyes:
 
Well I got about 1/8" gapor so, I will try and run an o-ring on top of the bracket assembly to absorb, should be well disguised / hidden, but it is bothersome to have to disassemble again for something I could have predicted.
 
Hello boys and girls! There are about 50 "tapered front-end bearing" threads, so I picked this one at random. Somewhere, cna't find where, I mentioned that my front steering was developing a notchyness feel, as if there were grooves in the bearing races. After about 25 or 30K miles of tapered bearing, I finally took my frontend apart. (Not one of my favorite things).
My suspicions have been realized.

When turning the bars from stop to stop, those rollers don't move much, and when riding straight, which is most of the time, the rollers are sitting on the same spot; mile after mile after mile.

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The above pics are the lower inner and outer races. I dissected the inner from the roller cage. The upper outer race had only 1 scar. Yes, could it be operator error. Maybe, but I have been loading tapered bearings with grease since I was 17.
 
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Hello boys and girls! There are about 50 "tapered front-end bearing" threads, so I picked this one at random. Somewhere, cna't find where, I mentioned that my front steering was developing a notchyness feel, as if there were grooves in the bearing races. After about 25 or 30K miles of tapered bearing, I finally took my frontend apart. (Not one of my favorite things).
My suspicions have been realized.

When turning the bars from stop to stop, those rollers don't move much, and when riding straight, which is most of the time, the rollers are sitting on the same spot; mile after mile after mile.

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The above pics are the lower inner and outer races. I dissected the inner from the roller cage. The upper outer race had only 1 scar. Yes, could it be operator error. Maybe, but I have been loading tapered bearings with grease since I was 17.
Any idea what brand those are?
 
Do you have a grease nipple installed in the steering neck so you can keep the bearings pumped full of grease?
 
Do you have a grease nipple installed in the steering neck so you can keep the bearings pumped full of grease?
It's a XS2 can't do that because of the steering dampener.
Be interesting to know what grease he used if he remembers.
 
If the roller cage had (# of bearings plus 1) notches around the outside and a spring pawl, that would only let it turn one way, you would keep changing the roller positions at each low speed turn.
I quickly destroyed the roller bearings on a Venture one time by attempting a "snug up" without doing a full monty fork strip which involved removing headlight, fairing, sound system, handlebars etc., Oops.
 
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