1978 Xs650SE Barn Find

ElCamMan515 said:
On a side not I am going to look at possibly another XS650 this afternoon. An older member in my fire department said he has a yamaha 650 in his back shed, but can't remember much about it. He believes it is a XS.
Click to expand...
Take Pictures... Inquiring minds want to know.
 
ElCamMan515 said:
Good afternoon everyone,

Got my rewind from Jim and I have to say his rewinds are top notch. I couldn't believe it was same rotor I sent him. (Before and after pictures below). It ohm tested at 5.6 and looks brand new!

I got bike all back together and it fired right up. And is charging. I still have to mount the new rectifier, but it seems to be working correctly!

I also put some bar end mirrors on it. It is starting to take shape as a factory-ish cafe/street track look. I still want to make a seat for it, but that will most likely wait til winter.

Hope to go on a little cruise Sunday before church.

Thanks again everyone!
Click to expand...

I probably have made all mistakes one can do on these bikes
Assuming new regulator and new rectifier now
I once fumbled with the nut holding the rotor.
Not tightening it enough so it came loose.
Had to take it back to the shop for adjustment Getting some plain straight words.
Well deserved i suppose.
But it was not a big thing
So a re check of that after a while can be a good thing.
 
Good morning and happy Saturday!

I was not able to meet up with my fellow firefighter the other day as he was not home. Hoping to catch him one day this week.

I've put 300 miles on the autolite 63 spark plugs.

Bike runs really good now, but would like some insight on the plugs. I will admit I am not very good at reading plugs. Do these look good?

Thanks,

Tim
 

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Mine are more black with a little brown
Never heard of anyone use Autolite 63 --- NGK BP7ES is the normal if I recall right.
But this is a domain i know little of the Carburetor gurus can come in
I would go for NGK if nothing else speaks against that
Those are not really expensive
Those looks a bit lean to ,me .But again go for opinion from those more skilled in that
I run rich because i have found a spot where it don't vibrate
There was a thread not long ago with pictures

If you google it will come up
perhaps that one gives info
http://www.xs650.com/threads/spark-plug-colour-spark-plug-color.49040/
 
Raymond - I have not been able to fully clean all the oil from the oil seepage I previously had. There was a little bit of oil around the plug hole on the left side. I have cleaned it and the threads of the plug off, I will check it again once I get home from work this evening to ensure the plug is clean.

Thanks JanP and Raymond for the insight.

Tim
 
I think he's running the plain 63's and unfortunately, I don't think the terminal nut is removable. That means the NGK LZFH cap won't fit it because it's made for a terminal stud (nut removed). Both these 63's appear to be resistor plugs so you wouldn't want a resistor cap too.
 
Thanks Paul for the link to the thread. If i am reading the thread correct the non-platinum 63s are non-resistor plugs and should work fine with the NKG boots. Am I reading that right?

Thanks,

Tim
 
According to every web site I looked at, the Autolite 63 is a resistor plug having about 4K ohms of resistance. Your NGK LB05 caps have 5K ohms of resistance giving you a total of about 9K ohms. That may be a bit much for strongest and best spark. If the nut on top does come off then you could run the NGK zero ohm (no resistance) LZFH caps shown in Mailman's pic. The only way they come is to fit the terminal stud (nut removed) .....

yg3iLp9.jpg
 
All the US sellers, via Ebay, of the Autolite 63 that I have seen state it to be a resistor plug. Its equivalent in NGK is also shown as a resistor plug. There are tables on the internet that show the 63 being equivalent to the NGK BP7ES, BUT these seem to be based solely on the heat range and physical dimensions. If you are still in doubt then use an OHM meter to measure the plug's resistance between the screw thread at the top and the center electrode. 5twins indicates this should be about 4000 Ohms.
 
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This is exactly why I like stock
5T is the most competent person I have encountered in my life ( more or less )
I don't believe anyone at Yamaha even have more knowledge

Hes is now saying in the Short version .. " Wrong Resistance "

I have never had such lean Plugs for 35 years and I don't have it now ( Admittedly almost always with weak charging and spark )

Furthermore a Plug inspection shall be performed in a fashion not all Know
I write it off from a Clymer Manual

" Accelerate hard through the gears and maintain a high steady speed . Shut the throttle and kill the engine at the same time , allow the bike to slow out of gear
Do not allow the engine to slow down the bike Remove the plugs and inspect the condition of the electrode area.

So there is the risk of the plug pictures being taken of the plugs after the home stretch 2 mile around the block. Ride
In essence the Pilot and the idle circuit .And then we don't know anything of the high speed main jet supply ( and have the Wrong Plug )
This is something I would not have the " Cojones " to ride with I would loose sleep.
Warm summer day hard revving inspired riding -- Kabonk .. Kabong .. Kabonk the hole in the Piston --- Bus passenger Home.

Perhaps I am overly skeptical but since this is dangerous i put it here
Perhaps the plug test is performed correct perhaps the plug works
Feel free to disregard. Personally I would have chucked those plugs and Caps into a corner .away and go for the NGK solution.
And sleep better. For $ 20 or something
Again feel free to disregard
 
If you're gonna change something then make sure you understand the system and consequences. Below is the coding for 1 range of NGK plugs taken from their website and trimmed a little:
NGK.jpg


Yamaha recommends the BP7ES and above you can see what each letter means:

B gives the thread diameter and pitch (14mm x 1.25mm)
P refers to the insulator design (Projecter)
7 is the heat range - 6 and lower are hotter while 8 and higher are colder.
E is the length of the threaded section (19mm). If you put the E type into a small petrol hand mower it will probably hit the piston head.
S is the electrode design (Standard)

If the spark plug has a R as in BPR7ES then it has an internal resistor like the Autolite 63. If you want to play with the spark plug type then you need access to the Manufacture's code table to help get things right, especially the Heat Range.
 
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